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Matt
Matt, Engineer
Category: Honda
Satisfied Customers: 20616
Experience:  Honors degree in Mechanical Engineering, worked 8 years as a Formula 1 engine engineer.
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Few days ago the check engine light came on in my wife's

Customer Question

Few days ago the check engine light came on in my wife's car. I started the car and drove around the block to find it had a whistling sound when the car starts and gets loud as I accelerate the gas. I have a neighbor who has a device to check the error codes he came up with the following:
Error Code 1-10
1. 171-03 Boost Sensor Performance
2. 50-01 MAF Sensor voltage
3. 50-02 MAF Sensor voltage low
4. 50-04 MAF Sensor High/Low
5. 50-10 Sensor range performance
6. 50-07 Sensor performance
7. 50-08 MAF Sensor Performance
8. 17-03 VSS Internment
9. 17-04 VSS Range/performance
10. 17-5 VSS low voltage
With all these codes I first tried cleaning the MAF with the CRC spray and the auto store found my 1 year old battery to be really low, so they replaced it.
The results did not change, even with a new battery and "clean" MAF sensor. Any advice for the next step in trouble shooting? or with all these error codes does this help pin point to one or more faulty parts?
Thanks a million -Joseph
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Honda
Expert:  Matt replied 1 year ago.

hello Joeseph

you're on the right lines as cleaning the MAF and replacing the battery would both have been on my recommendation list

next thing to try is checking for an airleak after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and can lean the engine out and can also allow the engine to rev up when not desired causing rough running.
As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.

Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.

The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.
Now you might think that spraying lighter gas around a hot engine isn’t wise, however the flash /ignition point of gas is about 400°C so you need a naked flame or spark to set it off and I’ve used this method for many years without incident.
Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Matt, I appreciate the quick response however the car doesn't rev up, to doesn't get enough power. Also, I posted this same question to a friend who asked me for the OBD2 codes. I will ask my neighbor to bring home the testing device again tonight and get you those codes. With most of the error notes showing sensor and voltage errors I would think its a sensor, no?In any case, he said those codes don't mean much to him, he really needs the OBD2 codes?May I ask, why those codes aren't important to you?
Expert:  Matt replied 1 year ago.

hello Joeseph

you can provide the OBD codes which will begin with a 'P' and have 4 digits afterwards

however as you've already provided the code descriptions in your 1st description so I was going off that

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Thanks Matt, I'll post the OBD codes in a few hours. This way you'll be able to assist me with pin pointing the issue. I appreciate the quick response and I'll keep the vacuum leak finder strategy in mind if the codes don't pan out.
Expert:  Matt replied 1 year ago.

no problem

just get back to me on this post

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
MAtt,We ran the check engine test again and the readings came back with the following 2 codes:P0102 - Generic Mass or Volume Air Flow circuit CURRENT
P0102 - Generic Mass or Volume Air Flow circuit PENDINGI also noted the ECU codes:ECU1 ($C6D78888)
ECU2 ($C6D78888)
NO FAULT CODESWhat do you suspect the issue could be?Thanks!
Expert:  Matt replied 1 year ago.
Hello
both of those relate to a lack of signal from the MAF sensor
so I'd carefully check the wiring to the sensor for any damage and the connector for corrosion / damaged pins
if this is Ok then the MAF sensor may need replacing
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Is there away to check the wiring using a multi-meter? should I replace the connector and the MAF, like spark plugs and cables? Do these go hand and hand, or doesn't matter? After I replace the MAF, does the check engine light reset itself? I'm planning on disconnecting the battery to install the MAF sensor then reconnecting it. would that help reset the check engine light? kinda like restarting your computer?
Expert:  Matt replied 1 year ago.

Hello

providing the MAF wiring is OK then there's no need to replace it the best way to test it is to use a meter to measure continuity between the MAF socket and ECU socket

yes disconnecting the battery will do a 'hard' reset of the ECU so it will clear any logged faults - providing the fault is no longer there when the battery is re-connected the engine light will remain off