hi this is jim, i'm here to help you out, give me a few minutes to look the info up
ok, i found the info, i will send it to you, i have to switch to q&a to send info, thanks for your patience, jim
just respond the same with anymore questions, thanks jim
I need to check to make sure the firing order is correct then I can go from there, one of the issues is after the car warms up it stalls.
Ok, the firing order is correct and the timing is however when the car warms up it stalls.
Yes it dies like you turned off the key, there are no engine codes. it just dies when warmed up and you can start it again but it will just die. Just so you know the timing belt was replaced and it had a dead cyclinder(cracked exhaust valve) I got all this repaired and I checked the timing again to make sure everythign was line up correctly and the firing order is correct as well. The compression checked good as well in all 4 cyclinders.
Please RATE my answer by clicking the RATINGS button, so I can get credit for my work,,the [BAD SERVICE] and [POOR SERVICE] rating does not give me credit].i don't receive commission if you give a less than 3 star/smiley rating ..I'm not always going to be giving you good news,so please don't let this stand in the way of you accepting my answer.it does not cost you more money.we will still be able to communicate,,.please understand,i can not see,hear or touch the vehicle and only know what you tell me. Bonuses and positive feedback are appreciated!if you are not satisfied with my answer,please do not leave bad feed back,i will gladly opt out and let another expert handle the question.if i have sent any diagrams,please print them.they will only stay on here for an hour or so...sometimes you may need to right click the image,then save picture as]to save it to your computer so you can open it with your picture program...PLEASE ASK IF YOU NEED MORE HELP
What is going on now is after the car warms up and is just sitting there it's fine until I hit the gas pedle or put it in drive then it stalls, it will restart but if i do the above it stalls again, I also noticed that the exhaust smell rich and I checked the spark plugs and they have black soot on them. I am not sure if the timing is off or what. I want to be sure because Tim's suggestion the part is 150+.
Yes this happen after the head was put back on, if you can please call me as this would be much faster, I know you are very busy and I will keep it short, XXX-XXX-XXXX
ok, the blue connector is plugged into the plug that is next to the firewall, in front of it would be the air intake opening correct? if so I have it plugged in the correct sensor. BTW THANK YOU for the help you are giving me!
When I checked the timing (the third time) I lined up the crank pully TDC mark (notch) with the marker protruding from the timing case, then checked the cam pully marks there are right on. The only other thing "mounted to the intake" was the support bracket and two connector mounts. One thought I did not bleed the coolant system with that check valve? Wolud that cause it to stall?
No I do not, I wish I did! BTW there are no engine codes (so far) CEL has not come on since the repair. I can rent a reader, would that help?
Yes, it does it's normal thing when I start the car.
Yeah, I don't see that as well. With air leaks I could use carb cleaner, as far as the propane if the car does accel would that means air leak as well?
I think I mentioned before that when the car is running the exhaust smells rich and when I pull the plugs there are black and sooty. Just for a sanity check, when I timed the care for the belts, my crank gear (dot) matched to the case stamp, then I made sure the cam (up) was pointed upward and the side ticks matched the head edge, now to be sure I was at TDC I stuck a long screw driver into the sparkplug hole to make sure the piston was up all the way. Is this correct?
Thank you I have this and this is what I used, I am making absolutly sure I did this correctly because when dissasembling the crank got moved, so to my question, with the timing marks lined up the #1 piston should be all the way up, correct?
YES #1 PISTON UP
ok, thanks when i get home i will check for a vaccum leak and go from there
I will see what I can do with that if it is needed, ya know I just have a feeling that it is going to be one of those "DOH" moments... If I find anything I will let you know.
I checked all connections and they are good, I used carb cleaner to check for vaccum leaks and there are none, next I used the rubber mallot to tap around the intake to check for a stuck valve/soleniod, nothing there I noticed on the dash the CEL was on, read the code and it was a cyclinder #1 misfire, NO HELP THERE! At this point I decided to clear the codes and after that the car is running fine! It may have been stuck in "limp home mode"?
One thing I noticed the when warming up the idel is a little rough, the car has 181K miles, old age? Suggestions?
THANK YOU! for all the help you have given me with this car one thing for sure, man what a learning expierence!
Sorry about that how do I correct that? I thought when I did the rating I thought I was rating you but as I am seeing here that did not happen.
No problem, you have been very "helpful" to me.
Quick question for you, The owner of the car was telling me that the car is runing rough when cold but ok when warmed up, my question is the only electronic component I changed on that car was the o2 sensor (Bosch) I have been seeing some complaints about that sensor would it cause the car to stall? Is there a better sensor I should have used? I would like your opinion seeing that you are more expierenced than I am with that aspect.