Honda Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hello I will help you with your question,
There is a plastic plug that the plunger of the brake switch rests on when the pedal is all the way up. Make sure this plug is in place, they get brittle and break. Autoparts stores have a package of trim retainers in the HELP section that you can use to replace the plug if it is missing.
If the plug is in place unplug the switch (located on the shaft of the brake pedal) and see if the lights go off. The switch may be mis adjusted, plug the switch in and press the plunger all the way in to see if the lights go out. If they do not the switch has failed internally and will need to be replaced.
These are the common reasons for the lights to stay on, try this and let me know if it does not work for you. Please let me know what further questions you have about this
Is it the brake light on the dash board that stays on?
Not the brake lights of the vehicle?
If it is check the level of the brake fluid inn the reservoir, if it is low the brake light on the dash will come on and you may have worn brake pads/ shoes or am leak in the system that caused the level to drop.
This would be the same light that comes on when you set your parking brake.
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Is it the red brake light or the amber brake light that comes on? Or both?
Are the rear brake lights of the vehicle staying on at all times?
Are the lights going out when you turn the key off?
OK you have many things going on here. The rear brake light should be first as I described above then if the fluid level drops in the reservoir you have a leak in the system that needs to be found.
Fix the rear lights so you don't have to pull the battery cable, find the leak and that should take care of two of your problems. The amber ABS light may not be able to be repaired without replacing the ABS unit but once the other two are repaired that will be much easier to diagnose.
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YOu may have to replace the master cylinder to replace the reservoir as there are many master cylinders available without the reservoir and you change yours over to the new one but there are no reservoirs alone.
A master with the reservoir attached is about 30 - 35 so it is not expensive, bleeding the system is a little tough so I would have a shop install it.
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Sure if it is not too far afield let me know and I will do my best to answer for you
YOur brake lights have to work properly for the cruise to work. Repair the brake lights and then troubleshoot the ANS light and then the cruise
The ABS system can make it tough to bleed, the best advice I have is bench bleed the master first and have it ready to install then break the line nuts loose with a line wrench so you don't round off the nuts and remove the mounting bolts then the lines so you can swap the master fast and not allow any fluid to drip out of the lines. If you let the master drip a little as you install the lines you should not have to bleed the system at all.
If you do have to bleed it allow the cylinders to gravity bleed and just pump the pedal once or twice with your hand as your partner opens and closes the bleeder so air is not sucked into the cylinders. Don't push the pedal to the floor, just halfway down and hold it with your hand, don't use your foot to bleed it.
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The AC conversion requires professional equipment to do successfully. I would not waste my money on a DIY kit.
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You will need a pressure bleeder to get the air out of the ABS system and a tech with a electronic tool to activate the ABS unit to get all the air out. I was afraid that you would have air in the ABS system.
I would suggest a mobile tech to help bleed it in the driveway and maybe he can get enough air out to produce a serviceable pedal.
The procedure is below
So the light does come on when you turn it on?
Do you have an airbag in the steering wheel?
The brake lights work normally now and you don't have any lights on the dash?
The speedometer works normally?
I know it is a lot of questions but they are all important, we are starting on a new problem so I need to get an idea of what is happening.
Glad you got brakes, at least you can stop when you need to.
No warning lights on the dash?
The brake lights on the back are working normally now?
Ok then you will need to check the vacuum to the cruise unit under the hood and see if there is vacuum to the actuator. This system may be beyond normal troubleshooting unless you have a vacuum gauge and a voltmeter. After 20 years the vacuum diaphragms tend to get brittle and rupture.
Let me know what you have to test
OK check for vacuum at the cruise unit and see if you have supply to there if you do you can block the vent and see if the diaphragm will pull in from the vacuum you supply. If it does we will move on to the electrical. This may take a lot if it moves to electrical as you have to manually check all the inputs to the cruise module and then test the output from the module.
Let me know when you have vacuum
You have an automatic trans?
Not directly from vacuum like a modulator but if the engine vacuum is low the MAP sensor may not know what load the engine is under and the shifting would be off. These were sophisticated computers so it could be the input from the sensors throwing off the shift pattern or it may be mechanical in the trans.
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OK I will be here so let me know what you find