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OK what was the fuse labeled?
door lock unit roof
There should be another fuse labeled door locks in the under dash fuse box.
is that labeled "inter lock unit"? I have nothing labeled door locks. If so this fuse is good.
No should be labeled power door locks.Is the interlock fuse good
Yes,interlock fuse is good. I have nothing labeled power door locks under the dash.
Ok either way since that fuse was blown is it blown again there has to be a short.Let me look for the fuse diagram for the door lock fuse.
That fuse is still good that I replaced
Ok give me a minute to look something up
Should be labeled power door lock control unit either under hood or dash let me know if its good.
the only fuse I have labeled door lock unit is under the hood and it is good. that is the one I replaced and it is still good
Ok and the door locks still dont work then the issue is a faulty door lock control unit in the drivers door.
Is that accessible behind the door panel
Yes its either number 25 or broken wires in the drivers door harness thats also very common.
Part number and price.Check the drivers door harness wires first.
Hoped this helped.Positive feedback and bonuses greatly appreciated.
I don't have time to look now. I'll get back with you tomorrow. thanks
No problem .Positive feedback and bonuses greatly appreciated.
I didn't find any broken wires in door harness. The control unit has power on 3 wires going to it--blu-red, grn-red, and gray wires--is there any way to determine if the unit is bad?
Did you get the diagram I posted?
Yes, but I've been doing some checking and it seems like I'm not getting power to the control unit because with the unit removed I've tried to bypass it with jumpers to make the locks work and they still don't work. I know the fuse is good. Could a wire be cut somewhere? and how would I trace down the incoming power to the unit? Any wiring diagrams available?
I found out some new info. Since there is no power to the door lock unit, I temporarily put 12V on terminal 8 (power input) of the unit and everything works. My question is where does the power split for the door control unit and rear hatch glass solenoid? Because the rear hatch works. There must be a connector somewhere where one wire is not making contact.
do you mean in the bundle of wires that goes thru the door hinge into the engine compartment?
ok I'll check it out
Let me know what you find.
I found the hot wire broken at the connector plug going into the drivers side door. The question now is how to repair it because while I was moving the wires around another one also broke at the connector. Can I just replace the short cable section between the door and the cabin which should have ready made connector plugs on it? And about how much would that cost and most likely I'd have to remove the door correct?
OK you will need to remove the door check which will give you enough room to repair the wire and remove the door panel and have the glass up .Also remove the side window track to give extra room.You will either need to remove each pin and replace each broken wire or what I do is have the salvage yard cut the connector end off and just splice it all together alot easier and about 50 dollars for the piece.Doing it the other way you will damage the connector getting the pin out and if 2 are rotted there will be more eventually this will stop it once and for all .Also make sure you disconnect the battery when doing the work .Figured this was the issue .Hoped this helped.Positive feedback and bonuses greatly appreciatd.
OK but instead of cutting off the connector end at the salvage yard couldn't I get the whole cable? Isn't there a connector at the other end going into the cabin also?
ok I'll keep you posted---thanks for the advise
Well I had a salvage yard send me a connector but they sent one that has only 16 wires in it and the colors are totally different even after assuring me it was the same. So how do the pins come out of the connector? I think I might try to re-pin it since I can't seem to find anyone that has the connector I'm looking for.
OK, with this I can remove the wires one by one from the connector?
Thanks I'll give it a try
I am not finding anywhere including the local Honda dealer that has a pin removal kit. Actually the Honda dealer told me that the female ends do not come out of the connector and that the parts dept does not sell tools. They told me to find a scrap connector with wire leads on it--which would be great if I could find one. I've tried to remove the wires with no luck. So what is the answer?
could you repeat your answer I didn't receive it very well
two wires broke at the female connector in the bundle on the body side of the driver's side door. they broke right at the solder joint in the connector so there's no lead sticking out.
Yes you need a small pick and from the front of the connector need to pry up the plastic tab and pull it out from the back .Heres a kit that will work.