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Tim West
Tim West, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Honda
Satisfied Customers: 4638
Experience:  ASE Certified Service Manager Bridgeston/ Firestone complete Auto Care
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2001 civic: front end roar or rumble..000 miles..bearing..cv joints

Customer Question

2001 civic. front end roar or rumble getting gradually worse over 10,000 miles. Outer bearing or cv joints (front)? 165,000 miles. Also, degree of difficulty in replacing front bearing, can get arbor press, or A frame press. Tips?
Submitted: 4 years ago.
Category: Honda
Expert:  Tim West replied 4 years ago.
Thanks for visiting Just Answer,
A rumble in the front end can be caused by bearings.
You should check the bearings for any play first before servicing.
To properly check the bearings you need to elevate the front wheels.
Position your hands at 6 and 12 o'clock.
Shake the wheel/ tire assembly up and down (in and out) and feel for any 'play' in the hub.
If you can shake the wheel and feel play, the bearings likely needs to be serviced.

If the bearings need replaced, here is a copy from my manual on how to make this repair.



Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing Replacement

Special Tools Required
  • Hub dis/assembly tool 07GAF-SE00100
  • Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200
  • Attachment 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
  • Driver 07749-0010000
  • Support base 07965-SD90100
  1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.



  1. Remove the wheel cap, wheel nuts, and front wheel.



  1. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolt (A).
  2. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force.



  1. Raise the stake (A), and remove the spindle nut (B), then remove and discard the nut.



  1. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screws (A).
  2. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (B) into the disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt 2 turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively.



  1. Remove the flange bolt (A) and wheel sensor (B) from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector.



  1. Remove the flange nut (A) while holding the joint pin (B) with a hex wrench (C), and disconnect the stabilizer link (D) from the lower arm (E).



  1. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint, and remove the castle nut (B). NOTE: During installation, insert the lock pin into the ball joint pin in the range of 180 degrees or below from the inside of the vehicle. Insert the lock pin from the inside to the outside of the vehicle.
  2. Disconnect the lower arm from the knuckle using the special too.



  1. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A) while holding the nuts (B), and remove the bolts and nuts.
  2. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (C) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E) with a plastic hammer while pulling the knuckle outward, then remove the knuckle. NOTE: Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft joint may come off.



  1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the special tool and a hydraulic press. Be careful not to deform the splash guard. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear.



  1. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) out of the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press.



  1. Remove the snap ring (A) and the splash guard (B) from the knuckle (C).



  1. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the special tool and a press.
  2. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly.



  1. Press a new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle (B) using the old bearing (C), a steel plate (D), the special tool, and a press. Place the wheel bearing on the knuckle with the pack seal side facing (metal color) toward the inside. Be careful not to damage the sleeve of the pack seal.



  1. Install the snap ring (A) securely in the knuckle (B).
  2. Install the splash guard (C), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque.



  1. Press a new hub bearing unit (A) into the hub (B) using the special tools and a press.
  2. Install the knuckle/hub/hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
    • Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when installing the knuckle.
    • Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values.
    • Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
    • Install a new lock pin on the castle nut after torquing.
    • Use a new spindle nut on reassembly.
    • Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft.
    • Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the front hub and the inside of the brake disc.
    • Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel.
    • Check the front wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary.
Tim West, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Honda
Satisfied Customers: 4638
Experience: ASE Certified Service Manager Bridgeston/ Firestone complete Auto Care
Tim West and other Honda Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

My experience in the past is that sealed front wheel drive wheel bearings fail pretty quickly once they start producing noise. I have also been told that as long as boots are in tact cv joints rarely fail. Which cv axle fails first or most often, the longer one on the right, or left? Looking for specific information with experience on Honda civics.

Thanks

Expert:  Tim West replied 4 years ago.
Well, I havn't known cv axles to cause a rumble noise. The most complaints I hear are related to vibration or popping sounds. So the noise you are hearing more than likely isn't an axle.
Also, from my expierence , I have not seen any one axle fail more common than the other.
Once my buddies open up the parts department, I can call over there and ask them to check their invetory on what axle gets sold more. The right or the left on this specific application. This is going to be the best way to known what side is failing more.
They do not open for a couple hours, so I can't get you that info yet. But if you would like I can keep this question open until I can get you a better idea.
I would feel more confident answering that question once I talk to the part guys.
(does this sound reasonable)??
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Thanks,

I went out and checked between answers. It looks like my front right bearing is gone.

Expert:  Tim West replied 4 years ago.
You are welcome, thanks for checking that. I will still reply later with that answer I promised you. Bear with me, as I said I am waiting for them to open and I need to run to the store a little later as well.

Thanks for the accept.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Thanks,

I went out and checked between answers. It looks like my front right bearing is gone.

I am attempting to print the text on the technical data. Can you send it to my e mail.

XXX@XXXXXX.XXX
Expert:  Tim West replied 4 years ago.
The web site blocks the email address.
Can you see this?
Expert:  Tim West replied 4 years ago.
I have never sent a doc like this before. I like the way it looks.
Did this doc help more than the post on the page?

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