hi

the rotors are 10".....and will cost around $40+/-each for the front and $30+/- each for the rear..you don't need the size of the pads,this car has only one size,just tell the retailer you want them for your accord lx

thanks

Brake Disc (Rotor)

• REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
• INSPECTION

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Except 1990-95 Accord

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

1. Loosen the lug nuts, then Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
2. Remove the wheels.
3. Remove the two 6mm screws from the brake disc.

Fig. Fig. 1: Remove the two 6mm screws securing the brake disc

1. Disconnect the caliper from the caliper bracket. Support the caliper out of the way with a length of wire. Do not allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose.
2. Remove the caliper bracket.

Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the bolt and guide pin from the caliper bracket, then remove the bracket

1. Remove the brake disc. If the brake disc is difficult to remove, install two 8mm bolts into the threaded holes and tighten them evenly and alternately to prevent cocking the rotor.

Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the brake disc from the caliper assembly

1. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
2. If equipped, enable the SRS system and connect the negative battery cable.

1990-95 Accord

See Figures 4 and 5

1. Loosen the lug nuts, then Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
2. Remove the wheels.
3. Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle.
4. Remove the 4 bolts retaining the hub unit to the steering knuckle and remove the hub unit.

Fig. Fig. 4: Remove the 4 bolts retaining the hub unit to the steering knuckle and remove the hub unit/rotor assembly

1. Remove the 4 bolts, then separate the hub unit from the brake rotor.

Fig. Fig. 5: Remove the 4 bolts, then separate the hub unit from the brake rotor

To install:

1. Assemble the disc to the hub unit and tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
2. When installing the hub to the knuckle, use new self-locking bolts and tighten them to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
3. Install the steering knuckle.
4. Lower the vehicle and check for proper brake operation.
5. If equipped, enable the SRS system and connect the negative battery cable.

INSPECTION

See Figures 6 and 7

1. The brake disc develops circular scores during braking due to trapped dust and road grit. Excessive scoring not only contributes to squealing brakes but also shortens the life of the brake pads. However, light scoring of the disc surface, not exceeding 0.015 in. (0.38mm) in depth, will result from normal use and is not detrimental to brake operation. In general, if the scoring is deep enough to catch a fingernail passing over it, it's too deep and requires corrective action.
2. Disc run-out is the movement of the disc from side-to-side; caused by warpage or distortion. Excess run-out causes wobble or pounding in the brake pedal. Position a dial indicator in the middle of the pad wear area and turn the disc, while checking the indicator. If disc run-out exceeds 0.004 in. (0.10mm), replace or refinish the disc.
3. Disc parallelism is the measurement of variations in disc thickness at several locations on the disc circumference. It indicates whether or not the two faces of the disc are true and parallel. To measure parallelism, place a mark on the disc and measure the disc thickness with a micrometer. Repeat this measurement at eight (8) equal increments (about 45 degrees apart) on the circumference of the disc. If any of the measurements vary more than 0.0006 in. (0.015mm), replace the disc.

Fig. Fig. 6: Measuring brake disc run-out using a dial indicator

Fig. Fig. 7: Use a micrometer to measure the thickness and to check for parallelism .

Brake Pads

• INSPECTION
• REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

INSPECTION

CAUTION Brake pads and shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air. Avoid inhaling any dust from brake surfaces. When cleaning brakes, use commercially available brake cleaning fluids.

See Figures 1 and 2

The front brake pads may be inspected without removal. With the front end elevated and safely supported, remove the wheel(s). Unlock the steering column lock and turn the wheel so that the brake caliper is out from under the fender.

View the pads (both inner and outer) through the cut-out in the center of the caliper. Remember to look at the thickness of the pad friction material (the part that actually presses on the disc) rather than the thickness of the backing plate which does not change with wear. Replace the brake pads if the remaining lining is below ³ / ₃₂ in. (2.4mm).

Fig. Fig. 1: The pads can be viewed through the inspection hole

Remember that you are looking at the profile of the pad, not the whole thing. Brake pads can wear on a taper which may not be visible through the window. It is also not possible to check the contact surface for cracking or scoring from this position. This quick check can be helpful only as a reference; detailed inspection requires pad removal.

Fig. Fig. 2: It is best to remove the pads to check for taper

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7

CAUTION If the car was recently driven, the brake components will be hot. Wear protective gloves.

1. Loosen the lug nuts, then raise and support the vehicle safely.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. As required, separate the brake hose clamp from the strut or knuckle by removing the retaining bolts.
4. Remove the lower caliper retaining bolt and pivot the caliper upward, off the pads.

Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the lower caliper retaining bolt ...

Fig. Fig. 4: ... and pivot the caliper upward, off the pads

1. Remove the pads, shims and pad retainers.

Fig. Fig. 5: Remove the pads, shims ...

Fig. Fig. 6: ... and pad retainers

To install:

Fig. Fig. 7: Front brake pad components

1. Clean the caliper thoroughly; remove any rust from the lip of the disc or rotor. Check the brake rotor for grooves or cracks. If any heavy scoring is present, the rotor must be replaced.
2. Install the pad retainers. Apply a brake-quiet compound (available at most auto parts strores) to both surfaces of the shims and the back of the disc brake pads. Do not get the compound on the braking surface of the pad.
3. Install the pads and shims. The pad with the wear indicator goes in the inboard position.
4. Push in the caliper piston so the caliper will fit over the pads. This is most easily accomplished with a large C-clamp. As the piston is forced back into the caliper, fluid will be forced back into the master cylinder reservoir. It may be necessary to siphon some fluid out to prevent overflowing.
5. Pivot the caliper down into position and tighten the mounting bolt to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
6. Connect the brake hose to the strut or knuckle, if removed. Install the wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground.
7. Check the master cylinder and add fluid as required, then install the master cylinder cover.
8. Depress the brake pedal several times and make sure that the movement feels normal. The first brake pedal application may result in a very "long" pedal due to the pistons being retracted. Always make several brake applications before starting the vehicle. Bleeding is not usually necessary after pad replacement.

Braking should be moderate for the first 5 miles or so until the new pads seat correctly. The new pads will bed best if put through several moderate heating and cooling cycles. Avoid hard braking until the brakes have experienced several long, slow stops with time to cool in between. Taking the time to properly bed the brakes will yield quieter operation, more efficient stopping and contribute to extended brake life.

1. If equipped, enable the SRS system and connect the negative battery cable.

REAR

Brake Disc (Rotor)

• REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
• INSPECTION

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1 and 2

1. Loosen the lug nuts, then Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
2. Remove the rear wheel.
3. Remove the rear brake caliper and mounting bracket.
4. Remove the hub center cap.
5. On 1984-87 Preludes and 1984-85 Accords, remove the cotter pin, holder and spindle nut. On other models, remove the screws securing the rotor to the hub assembly.

Fig. Fig. 1: Rear disc assembly used on 1984-85 Accords and 1984-87 Preludes

Fig. Fig. 2: Rear disc removal on 1986-95 Accords and 1988-95 Preludes

To install:

1. On 1984-87 Preludes and 1984-85 Accords, apply a light coat of grease or oil to the spindle nut and the spindle threads. Install the washer and spindle nut. Adjust the wheel bearing; . On other models, secure the disc with its retaining screws.
2. Install the caliper.
3. Install the wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground.
4. If equipped, enable the SRS system and connect the negative battery cable.

INSPECTION

See Figures 3 and 4

1. The brake disc develops circular scores during braking due to trapped dust and road grit. Excessive scoring not only contributes to squealing brakes but also shortens the life of the brake pads. However, light scoring of the disc surface, not exceeding 0.38mm in depth, will result from normal use and is not detrimental to brake operation. In general, if the scoring is deep enough to catch a fingernail passing over it, it's too deep and requires corrective action.
2. Disc run-out is the movement of the disc from side-to-side; warpage or distortion. Excess run-out causes wobble or pounding in the brake pedal. Position a dial indicator in the middle of the pad wear area and turn the disc, while checking the indicator. If disc run-out exceeds 0.004 in. (0.10mm), replace or refinish the disc.
3. Disc parallelism is the measurement of variations in disc thickness at several locations on the disc circumference. It indicates whether or not the two faces of the disc are true and parallel. To measure parallelism, place a mark on the disc and measure the disc thickness with a micrometer. Repeat this measurement at eight (8) equal increments (about 45 degrees apart) on the circumference of the disc. If any of the measurements vary more than 0.0006 in. (0.015mm), replace the disc.

Fig. Fig. 3: Measuring the brake disc run-out

Fig. Fig. 4: Use a micrometer to measure the thickness and check for parallelism

REAR

Brake Pads

• REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
• INSPECTION

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

CAUTION Brake pads and shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air. Avoid inhaling any dust from brake surfaces. When cleaning brakes, use commercially available brake cleaning fluids.

See Figure 1

1. Loosen the lug nuts, then Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
2. Remove the rear wheel.
3. Remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper from the bracket.
4. Remove the pads, shims and pad retainers.

To install:

1. Clean the caliper thoroughly removing any dirt or dust. Check the brake rotor for grooves or cracks; machine or replace, as necessary.
2. Install the pad retainers. Apply a disc brake pad lubricant to both surfaces of the shims and the back of the disc brake pads. Do not get any lubricant on the braking surface of the pad.
3. Install the pads and shims.
4. Use a suitable tool to rotate the caliper piston clockwise into the caliper bore, enough to fit over the brake pads. Lubricate the piston boot with silicone grease to avoid twisting the piston boot.

Fig. Fig. 1: The piston must be rotated to seat it in its bore

1. Install the brake caliper, aligning the cut-out in the piston with the tab on the inner pad. Tighten the mounting bolts.
2. Install the wheel. Lower the vehicle.
3. Check the fluid in the master cylinder and add as required. Depress the brake pedal several times to seat the pads.
4. If equipped, enable the SRS system and connect the negative battery cable.

INSPECTION

See Figure 2

View the pads (both inner and outer) through the cut-out in the center of the caliper. Remember to look at the thickness of the pad friction material (the part that actually presses on the disc) rather than the thickness of the backing plate which does not change with wear. Replace the brake pads if the remaining lining is below ³ / ₃₂ in. (2.4mm).

Fig. Fig. 2: It is best to remove the pads to check for taper

Remember that you are looking at the profile of the pad, not the whole thing. Brake pads can wear on a taper which may not be visible through the window. It is also not possible to check the contact surface for cracking or scoring from this position. This quick check can be helpful only as a reference; detailed inspection requires pad removal.