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No, not really. Sometimes the rubber gasket slips off and binds against the roller arm which will cause the door to stop while it is opening or closing, but that is a different problem. That one is an easy fix to just pop the gasket back on. With this problem, the door only moves a fraction of an inch before hitting against the interlock. Once its a little bit past the full open or full closed position, it will open or close the rest of the way by itself. If I crawl under the door, I can see the interlock move on the property functioning door, but it does not move on the malfunctioning door. I could probably take a photo to show what I am talking about. Is there any way to upload them here?
The images are looking up at the bottom of the roller arm from the ground when the door is fully opened. The first one shows the position of the interlock (circled in red) after the door is opened. The second one I pushed the interlock with my finger to allow the door to move. On the functioning door, I hear a small motor noise inside the door as this interlock moves when you press the door close button. On the malfunctioning door, it doesn't make that noise and the interlock doesn't do anything, so the door is never released. As soon as the door tries to move, it hits against the interlock and starts beeping. Pulling the door handle does move the interlock, and once the door starts moving, you can let the handle go and it will continue.It seems like there is probably a bad connection or a bad actuator motor for the interlock. I assume I will probably have to remove the door panel to get to it. Does this require removing the door in order to get the panel off? It looks hard to get at.
Ok. Its gotten too dark to look at it tonight. I will take a look in the morning and see if I can get the panel off. If you can get diagrams, that would be great.
Ok, I finally got the handle and door panel off. Of course I shot the clip for the handle across the driveway in the process, but luckily I saw where it went.
I found the actuator motor and tested voltage at the connector (in red). It does get a brief 12 volts when I press the door close button, so I am assuming its not an electrical problem now. But despite that, the actuator arm (in green) barely moves at all. Not enough to contact the roller and move the interlock.
I pulled the actuator and tested with it out of the vehicle - same thing. It clicks and sometimes grinds a little, but the arm doesn't move significantly.
I'm thinking that's our culprit.
It appears this is a sealed unit, so I can't get inside to see if I can tell exactly what happened. I guess I'll need a new one either way.
If you can get me a part number for the actuator (second photo), I'll call this one solved.