Hello and welcome to justanswer. My name is XXXXX XXXXX I can assist you with this.
If you disconnect the temp sensor at the head, does the gauge fall back to cold? Also, what color wire do you have connected to the temp sensor?
If you disconnect the temp sensor at the head, does the gauge fall back to cold?
YES, already i did, and the gauge fall completly down, like cool.
Also, what color wire do you have connected to the temp sensor?
ok, this a few dificult to describe, my car is 93 and has been many time running, i think the real color is yellow with a line blue or green over there. i checked all the line, step by step into the harness, at the end install a tester ohmeter betwen the two terminal points and register 0,102 ohm digital tester. and checked the panel too.
My pleasure. Yes, that is correct. It should be yellow/green.
Ok, we know the wire is correct and we know the wire is not shorted to ground since when you disconnect it, the temp gauge falls to cold, otherwise, it would stay hot.
Did it start doing this just after the engine swap, or all of the sudden?
NO, my car have original engine since a bougth, is japanese. i did not do a swap.
first time, i saw a hot condition almost a medium hot to 3/4 when was in a stop signal (example), after that return to almost 1/2 position in gauge. after that mantain 3/4 all the time, here began my troubles, but i identifiqued that the engine was in correct temperature, i think so.
Ok, sorry. I didn't realize it was JDM.
I think we are actually looking at a problem with the engine. You seem to have verified all the electrical items, so let's be certain the engine temperature is correct.
When you let the engine warm up until the fan comes on, do both the upper and lower radiator hoses feel pretty close to the same temperature?
Do you have an "point and shoot" thermometer so you can check the engine temperature at various locations? If not, a regular thermometer submerged in the radiator fill hole will verify the coolant temp.
I already changed thermostat part. look diagnostic acquired.
A- i started the engine in cool, the gauge is completly down. 0 time.
B- the gauge move to 1/4 at 2 minutes.
C- the gauge move to 1/2 at 10 minutes.
D- the gauge move to up almost red line at 18 minutes.
E- the fan start running at 24:00 minutes.
G- the fan stop running at 24:52 minutes. the gauge came down 1/8.
H- temperature increase to D again at 26:10 minutes.
I- cicles repeated since D, almost the same with diference times.
No sorry, i did not find anyone. i did: run engine 30 minutes and stop, living engine get cool a few, by 2 minutes, open radiator (no problem to open cap, no pressure, no gas, just a few liquid spended) and introduce a normal thermometer, it show 120° F, the maximus at thermometer is 150° F.
i did not try it again seen to be dangerous in case of the cristal blow up.
How about the radiator hoses? I have seen radiators clog causing improper flow from the top hose to the bottom.
As for testing the sending unit, CLICK HERE The above readings you gave me don't correspond with the readings on this chart. Did you buy the sending unit from Honda or an auto parts store?
i wrote at begining " i changed the radiator", so it´s not correspond at case, but thanks is a possibility to take.
i think, i have not change the water pump, because i observe the water flow ok. will the pump work impropely.
A- i can not open the short cut, so can you send me the link.
B- i read the technical manual of honda 92-95, and are to similar to my reading, but i never found the correspond manual with B16 A9, just D16, so thought are similars in part.
C- i bought it in ower honda dealer& distributor representative in my country, because i live in Costa Rica.
let me explain a few of me, i am electric ingenier, but my hobbie is the mechanical cars, i don´t have to much experience, but i research a lot of possible when i get something like this, so be patient with me please.
Ok, I overlooked where you said you replaced the radiator.
I seriously doubt a water pump problem, although the temperature of the top and bottom radiator hoses would confirm circulation. Is the temperature pretty close to the same on both hoses?
No problem at all. You are doing great. Let me try to attach the link another way. See the image below.
Is the temperature pretty close to the same on both hoses?
when the engine start between 3 or 5 minutes only the down hose in radiator is hot, at 10 minutes the up hose began to increase temperature until the fan run the first time. after that if i stop the engine, both hoses are at same temperature.
i knew that because i passed sunday making test at radiator.
image: well is the same, that i have in my manual, so i made that test, is ok too, when i realized this test, was when i decided to follow all harness in order to find a damage in cables.
i figure out, in my manual is a D16 engine instead of B16 A9 JDM, but my readings was lower than in the image. and are opposed to the failure.
Ok, at this point we are going to need to know the actual engine temperature. It sounds as though everything is in order, yet we still have this problem. We need to verify the engine is not truly overheating and the only way to do this is with a thermometer. If the engine is within specs, one of the parts you installed has to be bad.
Did you replace the entire gauge assembly or just the temperature section? Was it new or used?
well in order to test correctly the temperature, will i need a special tool? because the thermometer was old one in my father house, that i used, if this is the case i need to find or buy one. i don´t want to take a risk now, is hot water and pressure.
i asked to a friend to use my old parts, in a civic hacthback D16 Y8 Vtec, and are working, just a few difference in gauge metering, is showing low temperature than his parts, but without heatings troubles.
about my gauge metering, is second hand, i couldn´t find a new one, only if i ask by representative honda to carry from japam. and i just need to confirm that mine is in bad condition. in my friend car is not equal, but the old one work equal. SO!!
i have a headache with this.
sorry if i introduce you in this too, but i need help really, and you are the best.
sunday at night, i decided to running engine until stop by hot temperature but run almost 2 hours without trouble, so i stoped and go bed tired at the end.
will ECU produce this failure?
Any thermometer that will go up 220 F will be fine. I use a point and shoot infrared, but have used the other types also. Just place it in the coolant and let the engine idle until the cooling fan turns on. If it is getting over 212, we have an overheating issue.
Measure the temperature and keep me posted. I will be here when you need me.
No, an ecu will not cause this problem.
ok, i know who has a "point and shoot infrared" FLUKE, but i do not know the maximun of temperature possible to check, he use it in air conditioners. i will visit today later.
send me a places of points to check in the engine when reach hot temperature. in this form you will completly sure of my measurements.
i appreciate your professional interest, thank very much. i will in contact.
Sounds good. Check it at the thermostat housing, top and bottom radiator hoses, at the cylinder head and the top radiator tank.
The Fluke should work fine.
HI MR. .... i don´t know your name.
yesterday went to look the FLUKE, but is only in range -70° F to 85°F is small tester for air conditioner only.
so i going to look for one today, i will be in contact.
my best regards.
P.D. tell me if i push ACCEPT now, will i continue talking to you?
I'm sorry. My name is Chuck.
Sounds great. No, don't worry about the accept until we get the problem resolved. I'm in no hurry.
just a observation, if you are thinking in check and fix the head or cilinder cap, in my first part i wrote " i refinished the head in a precision taller"; (Rectifed in precision workshop);i did that, because the mechanical man in HONDA/CR told to do that, was the first tink i did by recomendation of my mechanical man.
but it did not work, since this, almost a month ago, i have been doing many checks a test on the car in order to fix it. Now i am hoping you can help, i don´t want to loose this car in special, is partner for me, has run many kilometers with me.
I have in mind to do a swap as a last resort.
thanks Chuck. i did not see your name in your answer.
one question, is about honda partner CRX 87, with which the steering wheel can be replaced? if you can answer over here is just a question no more.
What I'm actually trying to verify is if the temperature is actually getting to hot, or if we have a gauge that is mis reading. Also, checking the temperature at various points will let us know if the coolant is circulating properly.
i am late sorry, but i have now the information request. i will included by diferents pictures, i think are clearly.
i used a METEX Temp. by link reader, is like a thin cable with sensor in a xtreme.
i hope this are more information for you
That was awesome! Perfect! Ok, the good news is that your engine is not overheating. At no point is it over 212F so that is perfect.
That only leaves a problem with the sending unit, gauge, or the wiring. Disconnecting the sending unit and the gauge dropping to cold eliminates the wiring.
Testing the sending unit eliminates it.
That only leaves a problem with the gauge itself. There's nothing else left. The one you have is either bad, or the sending unit and the gauge are calibrated wrong between F and Celsius maybe.
well, when i was looking for new gauge, just a second hand i got, but this one, was instaled in a honda 95 automatic japaness version too. can it be diferent? in C° or F°, this look like the same.
what other form i have to confirm the temperature instead of use the gauge in my dash!
Have a great evening.
yoy too, thnaks a lot.
hi chuck, some days we don´t talk.
well, my car is working in the same condition and he doesn´t stop run over the way.
i think may be the panel is failing, i need to find some iqual to interchange for.
do you find something about cable and guage information, relationing at model?
So you haven't swapped the panel yet? If not, they are the same from a 92-95 Civic with manual transmission.
The only difference is that some have the rpm gauge and others do not. Either will work, but of course the one with the rpm gauge is the most popular.
good night chuck, i hope you read this.
i finished today to fix my car, is running like new. First at all, i send to you my sincerily apologies, you was right since the beginning.
i found a second guy with a car identiquly at mine and he was very attend to interchange parts.
the worst parts were: the thermostat switch, and the temperature sensor bulb. those were new, but was working incorrectly i guest, for that reazon i bought diferent brand "YENBO" germany, it fix like a mercedez, and are more exacts.
well, at the end i ought to change the fuel pump, because a diference in speed ralenty was imposible to fix, so this fixed ok.
well i aprecciated your time and patient, next time i will be more positive and follow your tips.
thanks very much.