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91 honda civic dx runs for a few minutes then dies. Won't resart. No error code.
Optional Information: Year: 1991Make: HondaModel : civic dxEngine : 1.5
hello welcome to the site.
can you tell me what has been done prior to this happening ?
I pushed it to a shop and they wanted to charge me $1200.00 to replace the fuel pump. I've been doing alot of research and think I could do this myself. Car will start and run for a few minutes then die. I turn the the key again and I get nothing. Can't hear the fuel pump engauge and I get no error codes. Let the car sit overnight and get the same thing.
ok lets do this remove the distributor cap and under the cover you will see the igniter i need to know what color this is.it will say NEC which is a tan unit or the OKI which is black in color.since you are hearing the fuel pump prime i don't think we need to go that direction right now.
May take a few minutes. Need to get dressed. Just a note. Pump only primes ounce. I can start car once then I get nothing.
the pump will prime for a few seconds and then shut off then when the car is started it will run.
Car will run for a few minutes then die. Will not restart. Then if I let it sit over night it will do the same thing. I'm going to try it now.
im thinking this has a faulty icm (igniter )
Engine Won't Start?
Check Coil & ICM Revised 04/02/08
On models with distributor equipped ignition systems,
the ignition coil and the ICM (ignition control module
[igniter]) by doing this procedure:
NOTE: Wire colors for wires referenced here can
vary between models, so use the appropriate ETM to
ID them.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the
MIL (malfunction indicator lamp).
MIL Basics on this page.
goes off, continue with step 2.
Check for battery voltage at the positive wire
going to the coil and at the positive wire going to
the ICM.
3.
open between the ignition switch, the ICM, and
the coil.
With a voltmeter connected between the coil
negative wire and ground, record the cranking
voltage.
Disconnect the negative wire between the coil and
the ICM. Then, connect the voltmeter between the
coil negative wire and ground, and record the
cranking voltage. (This is the same test as step 3,
except the wire to the ICM is
disconnected.)
If you get about 8V for step 3, and 10V for step 4,
install a new coil, and retest.
If you get about 10V for steps 3 and 4, install a
new ICM, and retest.
I tried to start it again. I turned key to start position, check engine light came on and turned off and I can hear a click from main modual. Fuel pump did not prime and car did not start. I will be unavailable untill around three. Then I will have time to do some checks. Thanks for your time.
i will send you some tesing info for the main fuel relay and the fuel pump .
what did you find out on the test ? what color was the igniter ?