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91 honda civic dx: for a few minutes then dies..Wont resart.

 
MASTER TECH's Avatar
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Customer Question

91 honda civic dx runs for a few minutes then dies. Won't resart. No error code.

 

Optional Information:
Year: 1991
Make: Honda
Model : civic dx
Engine : 1.5

Submitted: 1282 days and 2 hours ago.
Category: Honda
Value: $9
Status: CLOSED
Picture
Expert:  MASTER TECH replied 1282 days and 1 hours ago.

hello welcome to the site.

can you tell me what has been done prior to this happening ?

Customer replied 1282 days and 1 hours ago.

I pushed it to a shop and they wanted to charge me $1200.00 to replace the fuel pump. I've been doing alot of research and think I could do this myself. Car will start and run for a few minutes then die. I turn the the key again and I get nothing. Can't hear the fuel pump engauge and I get no error codes. Let the car sit overnight and get the same thing.

Picture
Expert:  MASTER TECH replied 1282 days and 1 hours ago.

ok lets do this remove the distributor cap and under the cover you will see the igniter i need to know what color this is.it will say NEC which is a tan unit or the OKI which is black in color.since you are hearing the fuel pump prime i don't think we need to go that direction right now.

Customer replied 1282 days and 1 hours ago.

May take a few minutes. Need to get dressed. Just a note. Pump only primes ounce. I can start car once then I get nothing.

Picture
Expert:  MASTER TECH replied 1282 days and 1 hours ago.

the pump will prime for a few seconds and then shut off then when the car is started it will run.

Customer replied 1282 days ago.

Car will run for a few minutes then die. Will not restart. Then if I let it sit over night it will do the same thing. I'm going to try it now.

Picture
Expert:  MASTER TECH replied 1282 days ago.

im thinking this has a faulty icm (igniter )

Engine Won't Start?

Check Coil & ICM Revised 04/02/08

On models with distributor equipped ignition systems,

the ignition coil and the ICM (ignition control module

[igniter]) by doing this procedure:

NOTE: Wire colors for wires referenced here can

vary between models, so use the appropriate ETM to

ID them.

 Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the

MIL (malfunction indicator lamp).

  •  If the MIL doesn't come on or stays on, refer to

MIL Basics on this page.

  •  If the MIL comes on for two seconds and then

goes off, continue with step 2.

 Check for battery voltage at the positive wire

going to the coil and at the positive wire going to

the ICM.

  •  If you have battery voltage, continue with step

3.

  •  If you don't have battery voltage, check for an

open between the ignition switch, the ICM, and

the coil.

With a voltmeter connected between the coil

negative wire and ground, record the cranking

voltage.

 Disconnect the negative wire between the coil and

the ICM. Then, connect the voltmeter between the

coil negative wire and ground, and record the

cranking voltage. (This is the same test as step 3,

except the wire to the ICM is

disconnected.)

 If you get about 8V for step 3, and 10V for step 4,

install a new coil, and retest.

 If you get about 10V for steps 3 and 4, install a

new ICM, and retest.

Customer replied 1282 days ago.

I tried to start it again. I turned key to start position, check engine light came on and turned off and I can hear a click from main modual. Fuel pump did not prime and car did not start. I will be unavailable untill around three. Then I will have time to do some checks. Thanks for your time.

Picture
Expert:  MASTER TECH replied 1282 days ago.

i will send you some tesing info for the main fuel relay and the fuel pump .

what did you find out on the test ? what color was the igniter ?

 
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