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Another brake work done recently?
what order did your bleed the wheels in?
was the problem present before replacing the masdter cyliner, or did it start occurring after replacing the master cylinder?
Abs, or non-abs?
Ok, just want you to do a quick check. Look at the bleeder screws on the calipers and tell me what position they are in- above or below where the brake hose connects to the calipers
Ok last question before proceeding - how far to engage the e-brake- does it engage after 3-4 clicks, or will the e-brake handle pull all the way up?
You need to adjust at the rear brakes - the further the drum-to- shoe clearance, the further the pedal has to travel before engaging firmly.
A good rule of thumb to use when adjusting the rear shoes- With rear tires off the ground, spin each one by hand. If should make 1 to 1/2 revolutions. Anymore than that, they are out of adjustment. If it doesnt make 1 complete revolution, they are over-adjusted.
Once this is done, if pedal is still soft, then it is time to do a brake line clamp to test in order to accurately identify where problem is occurring:
For a brake line clamp test, you need either 4 brake line clamps, or 4 pairs of vise grips(wrap the ends with cloth to prevent damage to brake hoses).
Place a clamp on each flexible brake hose about midway between the caliper and steel line. Do it at all 4 wheels for testing.
Now, test the pedal- should be nice and firm. If it drops to the floor, then the master cylinder is defective out of the box and needs to be replaced . If good, then start at RR and go to LR, RF, then LF- remove a clamp and test pedal. If good, move to next wheel. At whichever wheel the pedal drops, that is the wheel with the problem - kinked hose, damaged caliper that isnt pushing out...
Yes, you are correct 1 to 1 1/2 revolutions- sorry about the typo.
You can raise one wheel at a time. Being a front wheel drive, the rear wheels will each spin freely with the others on the ground.
As far as getting the drums off, you can use a 2lb handheld sledge hammer to smack the face of the drums a few times. Usually the drums will pop off.
If they dont, you could use 2 large screwdrivers placed opposite of each other between the back lip of drum and drum backing plate. By prying back on each screwdriver(alternately), you can "walk" the drum off.
Being that I have gotten as many as 3 bad master cylinders in a row that were defective, starting with the line clamp test would make sense