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can I get a copy of the vacuum system routing diagram for a 1988 Accord DX (which is normally pasted inside the hood but my copy is missing). 2.0L engine, carbureted. (I have one for my 1985 and it is very clean and easy to follow)
Optional Information: 1988 Honda DX 2.0L Already Tried: I have not tried anything yet but the (highly intermittent) car symptoms are as follows (it has done this 3 times in the last year with no pattern as to when): 1.) starts and warms up just fine 2.) about 10 minutes after startup suddenly exhaust reeks and car dies. 3.) try to restart and can barely get restarted after cranking for a minute solid and have to have gas pedal to the floor, typically just barely firing on one or two cylinders only. 4.) keeping pedal to the floor it will eventually suddenly rev way up after maybe 30-45 seconds. 5.) but will only keep running if you keep RPMS racing above 2000, which I can do since it is a clutch. If it drops below this speed it will quickly die again and then you have to restart like in step 3.) 6.) even at that to keep it running you have to keep pumping the pedal, as though most of the running is coming from dumping in lots of gas via the accelerator pump. Not pumping the pedal every couple seconds and it will die regardless of RPMs. 7.) let it completely cool down and it starts beautifully and runs fine The plugs have always suggested it is running too lean anyway as several have consistently been whitish over several plug changes, not greyish/brown like my 85 Accord which runs fine. Idle has always been rough and I have suspected a vacuum leak but have spent much time spraying propane and cannot find anyplace where the idle RPMs go up except when I point the propane toward down the carb barrels. So I have concluded it is borderline too lean anyway and that the consistent 10 minute time is due to one of the thermovalves opening and somehow air control valves A or B dump lots of air in thinking it is too rich. This leans things out way too much to where it will not run unless the the throttle is so far open and so much airflow is coming in through the normal carb barrel route that the effect of the extra leaning from air control valves A or B is diluted enough that the mixture is back close to normal.
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Here I hope this helps:
Fig. 18: Vacuum hose routing-1988 carbureted Accord with manual trans axle.
Fig. 19: Vacuum hose routing-1988 carbureted Accord with automatic trans axle.
Fig. 20: Emission component schematic-1988 carbureted Accord with manual trans axle.
Fig. 21: Emission component schematic-1988 carbureted Accord with automatic trans axle.
Any other questions, please let me know. Thank you.
Wes
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That was the diagram I was looking for but the second step of the question process asked me to provide more detail on symptoms and while I was typing that it looks like you answered the diagram portion OK. But do you have the full symptom detail I typed and maybe could you pinpoint this more specifically?
OK,
Not all the question came over the first time. I apologize for the system still not updating fast enough. I can suggest using carb cleaner near the carb plate to see if the RPM will increase. Usually there are leaks where the carb & intake manifold meets. Usually you will want to do this while idling. If you can not get the car to idle properly, then may be bigger problems. Try that & please let me know. I may have to opt out, due to my carb experience is not the best. Let me know, thank you.
Experience: 3 1/2 years in Honda/Acura dealership-have done it all. 15+ years automotive work history.