Honda Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
I'd like to help out on your concern. How many miles areon this vehicle? And, does it only not shift into drive in the mornings, or anytime you first start the engine? Thanks,
Did the shifting concern and the 'stuck in park' begin together?
Also, does the D4 lamp blink on the dash?
When the guages go "haywire" what exactly do they do, and how often does this occur.Thanks,
One last question, did the transmission problem begin immediatly after the radio exchange?
With the information you have provided, I believe the radio installation has no affect on the current concern. Also, the instrumentation problem sounds like a seperate issue, and I believe that it may lie in the CLuster itself, but needs voltage testing to verify. The transmision concern however, sounds like a problem in possibly the TP (throtle position sensor). There are other electrical possibilities, but I beleive you should have it disgnosed for this one first. There is a Honda TSB (Technical Service Bullitin) on the TP sensor failure causing a 'stuck in park' condition. It does not mention the shifting concern, and personnally I havn't had one fail a TP and cause both the stuck in park and the shifting problem; but it is possible - the TP sensor is a crucial input signal for the transmission to use. I've posted the TSB below, for your viewing. What bother's me is the milage of the engine/transmission. Concerns with the TP sensor were caught before this milage. I would have the fluid inspected if you already haven't. Then the transmission will need computer diagnostics, for a code retrieval. There may be a diagnostic code set in memory of the computer, which may entail a electrical fault. Possibly in the Transmission Control Module itself. But i'd like you to have some fuses checked before assumming this is the concern. Especially with the electrical problems you've had. If one of these fuses are blown, it can affect the operation of the trans controller. In the underhood fuse box, have fuses 30 (20 amp) and 39 (7.5) amps checked. Also have fuse #4 (7.5 amps) and #1 (10 amp) in the underdash fuse box checked. If the fuses are good, make sure the cables on the battery are tight, often they are left slightly loose after electrical wirk and eventually cause a voltage drop to the engine and transmission computers, causing various electrical malfunctions. Let me know your outcome, thanks