Home Improvement Questions? Ask a Handyman for Answers
Hi, thank you for contacting JustAnswer.com. My name is***** will do my best to provide the right answer to your question.
Is the door open, or closed? given that it is immobile.
Are you sure the remotes aren't working, but are triggering a locked-up, immobilized, or defective opener motor/drive/door? Test by using the non-remote hand controls or wall button, to make sure the door isn't inhibited somehow, I suggest.
Have you got the proper pairing procedure to configure the remotes to the opener?
Has the opener ever worked properly with the original remote, the GT 90-3 ? and did it recently cease to work in response to it?
Yes there is a beam that must be working and the sensors must be aligned to see each other.
if the beam is blocked the door will attempt to move but will not , it will shake or shutter a moment and then appear to have gone dead. you will get a blinking lights on the motor housing to alert you something is wrong
Thank you for the response.
What got replaced, when 'the beams got broke' ?
They have nothing to do with recognition of the remotes. Are you sure the serviceman did not press a Reset button on the opener? (though it sounds as if this is the type of older opener that does not have a button on the opener... if it does, what is the color of the button?)
You might have a coincidentally defective 'receiver', the part of the opener that the remotes communicate with.
If so, this is quite rare!
But something changed, quite obviously, when the sensor lights/beams were replaced.
Another Expert wants to offer his help, and so I am Opting Out of this case; I will still be able to see and respond to any further posting by you, though.
Long Term Tech is correct in his assessment it has something to do with the safety sensors..........what I think happened is when the wires were re-connected to the opener they were crossed up some............depending if you have 3 or 4 connection slots...........if it is 3 ......both white or white tracer wires go in the middle connection .....if it is 4 then then one each in the two middle ones..............then the other wires (maybe red and a gray) go on the ends...........and you might have to switch them because one sensor is the sender and one is the receiver...........they will still have a solid light but this adjustment should make a difference
I hope you found my answers to your questions helpful and of sound value and would consider a positive rating so I may receive credit for my help. I'm very passionate and proud of my work here and the positive ratings given by clients like you!
I am talking about on the opener ........that side of the connection for the safety sensors