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The Home Smithy
The Home Smithy, Home Builder
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The step on the bulk head looks wrong

Customer Question

The step down on the bulk head looks wrong,,,Well here is the finished bulk head...I think it should have had the façade in front of the step down... BUt it was left this way. I only just realized it..

Submitted: 12 months ago.
Category: Home Improvement
Expert:  MsBabyD replied 12 months ago.

MsBabyD :

Hello! I am here to help you with any questions you may have.

MsBabyD :

Here are the codes has it been inspected for fonally contruction yet?

MsBabyD :












46 CFR 179.310 - Collision bulkheads.





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§ 179.310

Collision bulkheads.

(a) Each collision bulkhead required by § 179.210, must be constructed in accordance with § 179.320, except that a collision bulkhead:

(1) Must extend to the weather deck or to one deck above the bulkhead deck, whichever is lower, for service on oceans or coastwise routes; and

(2) Must not be fitted with any type of penetration or opening except penetrations may be made if they are located as high and as far inboard as practicable and they have a means to make them watertight.

(b) The forward collision bulkhead required to be on a vessel by § 179.210 must be:

(1) Located at least 5 percent but not more than 15 percent of the length between perpendiculars (LBP) aft of the forward perpendicular, or for vessels with bulbous bows extending forward of the forward perpendicular and contributing more than 2 percent of the underwater volume of the vessel, located at least 5 percent but not more than 15 percent of the LBP aft of the mid-length of such extension; and

(2) Installed in a single plane, with no recess or step, up to the bulkhead deck;

(c) The after collision bulkhead on a double-ended ferry of more than 19.8 meters (65 feet) in length must be:

(1) At least 5 percent but not more than 15 percent of the LBP forward of the after perpendicular; and

(2) Installed in a single plane, with no recess or step, at least up to the bulkhead deck.



MsBabyD :

 


§ 179.210

Collision bulkhead.

(a) A vessel of more than 19.8 meters (65 feet) in length must have a collision bulkhead.

(b) A vessel of not more than 19.8 meters (65 feet) in length must have a collision bulkhead if it:

(1) Carries more than 49 passengers;

(2) Operates on exposed waters;

(3) Is of more than 12.2 meters (40 feet) in length and operates on partially protected waters; or

(4) Is constructed of wood on or after March 11, 2001, and operates in cold water.

(c) A double-ended ferry required to have a collision bulkhead must have a collision bulkhead at each end of the vessel.
MsBabyD :













§ 179.320

Watertight bulkheads.

(a) Each watertight bulkhead must be of sufficient strength to be capable of remaining watertight with a head of water to the top of the bulkhead.

(b) Each watertight bulkhead must extend to the bulkhead deck and be installed in one plane without steps or recesses insofar as is reasonable and practicable. Any steps or recesses permitted must comply with the applicable subdivision requirements in this subchapter.

(c) The number of penetrations in a watertight bulkhead must be minimized. A penetration in a watertight bulkhead must be as high and as far inboard in the bulkhead as practicable, and made watertight.

(d) Sluice valves are not permitted in watertight bulkheads.



Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 12 months ago.
Hi and welcome back.
Although structurally the area under the step down is just fine I think that looks like hell.
If it were my deck he would be coming back out and adding a facade to the bottom of the step so that it matches the rest of the bulkhead.
Other than that the new bulkhead looks great!
Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 12 months ago.
Looking at the picture I noticed a couple of things that need attention.
Please see the edited picture for more information.
Best, Smitty
graphic
Customer: replied 12 months ago.
WTF is exactly what I said but the explanation he gave me when i bought it to his attention was that the old board could not be pulled out with the machine was losing stability when he kept trying to pull it out.
. (In my mind I saw myself throw on some galoshes myself and jump in at low tide and dig until I could simply pull it out manually. .....no?.... I simply could not tell him that.
Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 12 months ago.
Rest assured if the backhoe could't pull it out no amount of hand digging would get it out either.
Customer: replied 12 months ago.
Wow! How can that be? When we pull out trees on our property, we eventually get to the root and the tree can be moved. Do you think in this case it is better and stronger as a whole to leave this very permanent object that is snagged in there. How come the buried wood didnt crumble or disintegrate ? Salt preserves the wood and oxegen and sun decays the exposed wood? Maybe the original wood in the 1950's was some hardwood specifically known to not decay like teak? Or equivalent. Thank you so much for the notes on diagram. I like the contractor and want so badly to trust him.
Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 12 months ago.
Yes. Excavating it would leave a void that would have to be filled. That could possibly cause the moving soil to accelerate. It isn't going anywhere any time soon as it is.
No I really doubt that the wood is teak or anything exotic like that.
The wood was probably treated with chemicals that are very good at preserving wood in a marine environment. The chemicals that are used today pale in comparison, but are not harmful to humans or the environment. That wood will probably out last the both of us in the long run.

Customer: replied 12 months ago.
So what the guy did was the best solution possible? My idea would have put horizontal support behind the wall and faced it with verticles on the front to fake an even facing. Or was that not really possible?
Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 12 months ago.
Not unless you want to lose about a foot and a half of the boat space.
What he did was the best solution in my opinion, although I would have tried to make it a little neater.
Customer: replied 12 months ago.
I meant just the "WTF" hole on the bottom where the old plank could not be removed.
Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 12 months ago.
Yes that is what I was referring to. If it were me I would have got a chain saw and at least trimmed back that one spot.
The area under the step I would have made the same as the rest of the bulkhead.
The Home Smithy, Home Builder
Category: Home Improvement
Satisfied Customers: 9513
Experience: #1 Home Improvement Expert 30+ years experience
The Home Smithy and 5 other Home Improvement Specialists are ready to help you
Expert:  MsBabyD replied 12 months ago.
Not sure whar quifification The Home Smithy Inspector. but I can tell you as a inspector it needs to be removed and rebuild at the countractors expensibe
Expert:  MsBabyD replied 12 months ago.
inspector Unless Home Smithy is a ceritified. I am not sure. But the contractor did a bad job if he is lincenesed go after it if not tell him to re do the job proaberely!
Customer: replied 12 months ago.

oh

Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 12 months ago.
MsBabyD is correct. the job is not up to strict standards of the industry. All you need to do is look across the waterway and compare the job done there to the one your contractor did. Big difference.
As a professional home inspector I am sure that the job will not pass her strict standards, but it is within the local code requirements and will last a good long time.
I am not a certified home inspector. I am a home builder. I cant quote the IBC codes by heart, but I can pass all the inspections required to complete a house and get a C of O certificate.
I have in the past held a contractors license from the State of California. The only reason I do not have it presently was due to financial issues. I just couldn't afford to keep up the required bonds and insurances so I just let it go. Even then having a license or certificate does not mean that you know what you are doing. I know contractors that don't have half a clue how to pour concrete, or frame a house. The work strictly with sub contractors and are basically just salesmen.
i do have certificates from manufacturers that I either attend seminars with or study on line. I am a qualified Simpson Strong-Tie
installation instructor. I hold multiple certificates from companies and organisations associated with the building industry. The latest being from the APA's WoodUniversite.org, and Leviton Electrical corporation.
I dont have anything as nice as a certificate from INTERNACHI on my wall. I have something I consider more valuable than that. A reputation as being one of the best handymen in the Tehachapi Valley.
The Home Smithy, Home Builder
Category: Home Improvement
Satisfied Customers: 9513
Experience: #1 Home Improvement Expert 30+ years experience
The Home Smithy and 5 other Home Improvement Specialists are ready to help you
Expert:  MsBabyD replied 12 months ago.

As A Inspector I cover Contractors, Builders, and Engineers, I cited the federal water way codes for you. That was not done properly. If it was done by a licensed contractor or not. Please let me know how I may assist you. If you would like layman terms or not. But I believe under a contact you have legal rights to have them done under federal water way right. Please let me know How I my assist you.
Respectfully Yours,
Brook

Expert:  MsBabyD replied 12 months ago.
If you use a un lincesed handy man or not contracted try to work something out with them
Expert:  MsBabyD replied 11 months ago.
I am wondering How you Bulk head is doing?

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