My name's Kel.
A couple of questions to help me to understand your situation.
Are you using pneumatic tools to nail with?
Is it paneling that looks like bead board
or actual bead board?
Is it going over drywall or plaster?
Thank you for the answers.
Use a brad that will allow a 1/2" penetration into the framing.
So with countersinking, 1/8" for paneling + 1/2" for drywall + 1/2" penetration = 1 1/8 or 1 1/4" long brad.
If you angle the brads slightly they'll have more holding power.
If the paneling is prefinished try to keep the number of brads to a minimum.
If you're not using battens on the joints
after you install a sheet take a black magic marker and run it along the edge of the joint darkening the drywall. This will make the joint less apparent as the paneling expands and contracts with the seasons.
You can use a low VOC paneling adhesive. The cartridge will indicate how much to use. Usually a 3/8" diameter bead on the perimeter and on 12" centers for the field. Keep the adhesive about 2" from the perimeter so it doesn't ooze out from the edges.
I prefer to keep the number of fasteners to a minimum, so I find a way to use 2x4 and 1x4 to press the paneling to the wall while the adhesive sets up. I prop off walls and cabinets. Whatever's available.
Does this make sense?
Have I answered your questions?
The usual application is to install the bead board first then the trims over it.
It also depends on the type of trim you're using and the look you're going for.
If I want an older look I'll use a base that's thicker than beaded and run the beaded to rest on top.
Most cap molding for beaded is recessed to fit over the top edge and completely dress the joint.
The easiest approach is to install the beaded paneling first then install the trim. That way you don't have long joints to make work.
Does this answer your question?