Is another another brand of cross brace you can recommend (metal)?
Do I have to take out the old cross bracing?
Did the wood appear to be rotten from the pictures?
What was your evaluation of them being rotten, from the pictures?
The picture was a large part of the question. I have sent pictures to you before.
Nevermind, I realized you CANNOT use galvanized metal with treated lumber (my floor joists are 1977 treated with chromated copper arsenate (CCA)
What are my other options? The only metal cross bridges they sell are galvanized- idiotic in my opinion, because the newer preservatives in treated wood will corrode galvanized metal even faster.
I guess I could solid bridge or strap the joists in those few problem areas, and use triple-coated screws to screw the sister joists in, correct? What other type of nail/screw can you use in treated wood, that will not corrode?
The other option I mentioned in my initial reply (since you don't have a miter saw) would be to use blocking cut out of the same sized 2 x as the floor joists bridging the joist space. Strapping is another option but blocking would be better if you only plan to strap one area not the entire floor. Stainless steel nails are your best bet to avoid corrosion or you can use ceramic coated deck screws which are specifically made for use with treated wood. If I had known before that these were treated joists I wouldn't have recommended the metal bridging.
Can you put your answer below each question.
1. I read you can test for pressure treated wood by litmus paper, because all pressure-treated wood is alkaline?
Would I do this by shaving off a small section of the wood, then letting the wood soak in water, then dipping the pH paper in water to test if it is acidic, basic, or neutral?
2. Does the basement have to have pressure-treated wood? Is kiln-dried wood good enough by itself?
I cut wood shavings off of a joist, and a foundation board. I performed a three tests on each batch of shavings to determine if they are treated.
1. I tested to see the color underneath the shaved sections. If the raw wood is yellow/white in color, it is supposed to be non-treated.
2. I went to my backyard and lit each shaving on fire. If chromated copper arsenate is in each piece, it should have a green flame. It did not for either set of shavings.
3. Finally, I soaked a bit of each of the shavings in test tubes, then used pH paper to test. If the wood is treated, it should make the water alkaline. It did not, both tests had a neutral pH of around 7.0.
So, I apologize, I do NOT think my wood is treated now. The wood is from 1977, the printing on the wood is "Weyehaeuser 4- Square Lumber Kiln-Dried"
Should they have used treated wood for the basement ceiling/first floor joists? What about the foundation boards at the edge. The foundation boards are against cement, but it appears there is a thing layer of insulation separating the board from the cement...something called a "sill plate"?
What should I do now? It seems as if I can just install galvanized whatever into the joists, but I am worried because the 1977 carpenters didn't install treated wood.