I have a digital remote meter that provides me with the state of charge of my battery bank. How do I test to see if the problem is with either the solar panels or a connection from the panels to the controller?
You will need the data for the panels and compare this with what you are getting now, bear in mind the data will be off load, what would be use full is if you took on load data when they were installed then comparison is easier, can you give me more info like how many panels and the wattage of each as well as the open circuit voltage, also the battery voltage, Ah rating, what type of battery, Traction or leisure, etc, Rick
My system is small --I have 4 80watt Sharp panels (320WATTS).
Open circuit voltage 21.6
Maximum Power voltage 17.3
Maximum Power current 4.63A
Short circuit Current 5.16A
My battery bank consists of 8 - 6volt golf cart batterys totalling approx.
900 amp hours
OK depends on how the batteries are wired and type of battery if they are gell how long have they been in service and I guess in series giving 48 volts, I think your method of calculating AH is wrong seems more like 112.5 AH is better, 900 would make your bank around half a ton or more, Rick
Batterys are 3 months old . The battery bank is a 12 volt system batterys are flooded
each 6 volt battery has 235 amp hours, they are hooked up in series and parrallel thus the 900 amp hrs
As for weight each battery is approx. 70 lbs., so thats close to 600 lbs. total
The problems I'm having only started 2 weeks ago ,everything was fine until then.
I only run lights, TV and Radio all my appliances are run off propane.
Until my problem started my system would be FULLY charged before noon daily.
What should I look at first to fix my problem.
I still need an answer. if possible.
Welcome to Just Answer!Based on your discussion with Rick. it seems the problem boils down to bad wire connections or a bad controller.... if the wire connections are clean and tight and you are not draining the batteries faster than you can charge them, odds are in the 90% range that the controller is not working properly.Those are not overly expensive, you can always use a spare in any case. I would buy a new controller, rated for 10 or 15 amps at the voltage you are charging the batteries with...... so it doesn't run near its peak capacity and overheat (that damages them)If you want to do some tests you will need a DC volt meter, or a multi meter with DC voltage on it and a DC amp meter good for 0-10 amps DC.
We need to measure the draw on the batteries relative to the input.
We can go from there.Phil