Hello Phil, Thank you for taking the time to help me with this issue. I understand what you are saying about crack being unavoidable, but the Contractor has lied about so many things I wanted to get a real experts advice on this before I make my final payment to them. Troweled in separations were used but the crack formed away from them. What was defined in the work estimate was very detailed about what you ask. They specified:
Concrete Amount: 7.5 cu. Yds.
5. Concrete Quality: 6 sacks – Pea Gravel
6. Concrete Finish: Combination Broom/Stamped Concrete
7. Color Preparation: N/A
8. Main Color: Natural
9. Second Color: As a Release Agent – Dark Grey
10. Aggregate type: 3/4” gravel Class II – 2” thick (1.5 cubic yards)
11. Rebar: 24” On Center
12. Forms: 2x4
- · Excavate 4” of existing soil or 8.5 cubic yards of soil with. Haul dirt to the nearest landfill.
Grade the area before setting all the forms and compact as needed.
Any extra dirt will be hauled away to the nearest landfill
Scope of Work:
1. Set the wood forms for the driveway and bender boards to replace the mow strip
2. Add the base material
3. The base preparation is the most important part of the entire process. Appropriate base material, thickness, and compaction are essential to ensure your installation will last a lifetime.
4. We will add and prepare (2) two inch of Class II Road Base. Once the base has been set, we will dampen the base down, and compact it until we reach a compaction level of 95%. At this point i.e. if you drive with your car over the prepared base, you will not see any tires indentations mark, as it is literally hard as a rock, which is exactly what we need.
5. We will use a plate compactor and firmly compact the gravel base material. For best results we will compact no more than 1" of the base rock at one time. This is crucial as we do not want to have any air gaps in our system. If you skip this step, it will lead to undulations later on.
6. Install the forms at a rate of 24” O.C.
7. Use barricades and cones to secure an area on the street for the Concrete Pump and Ready Mix Truck.
8. Pour concrete with pump
10. Come back 48 hours later to remove forms and release
Pictures of the base look different than what was stated in that I see a lot of clay ground with a few rocks on top per square area. Maybe you can see if the ground looks compacted as to me it doesn’t before they pour the concrete. The thickness from top to gravel measures 4 inches. The ground was excavated using a small bulldozer that took up vegetations and soil in an area that was designed for RV usage as an unpaved driveway. They tore out my gutter drains that ran underground from my house under the lawn and down to the sidewalk. They left that as is and now this gutter drain terminates under the new driveway at ten feet and 15 feet from the sidewalk. This is a separate issue I was wondering what effects of water pouring under the new driveway will have during our rainy Winter season. From pictures I have it doesn’t look like much gravel was put down before pouring the concrete but when inspecting it just now it does look like there was gravel put down at some point in time. The concrete was mixed in a ready mix truck (cement mixer) then delivered on site poured into a vehicle that pressurized it enabling it to flow thru a black flexible tube that was used to direct the concrete to the exact spot it was needed.
The overall appearance of the slab is very professional with curved edges at the top and a nice finish and stained with a sealer applied to it.
The crack is roughly 1/16 inch wide at its widest point for about half of the width of the slab and the rest of the way it is more of a fine crack paper thick.
I just wanted to be sure that such a crack is not an indication of some type of pending failure in the future. Ed