Home Improvement Questions? Ask a Handyman for Answers ASAP
When I replaced the Logic board in my Liftmaster 2565 garage door opener, the wiring on the new one is not the same as the old one, i.e., the old terminal has 2 red, 4 white and two gray receptacles and the new one has one red, two white and one gray receptacle so I was instructed to twist the two of each together. All of the code numbers on the new components match the old one. Compounding the problem is my wires are not color coded, except they are all white, but two sets of wires have a red line along one side of each, the third set is all white on both sides. I assume two wires come from the wall mounted control and the other four come from the two sensors. I've tried different combinations and can't get the opener to work, it acts like it wants to, then stops & the light blinks on all of my remotes. How do I know which wires go to which terminal block?
#1: Yes on all three
#2: The wall control wires are white on both sides, but the sensor wires have a red stripe on one side for both set of wires.
#3: Yes, I can follow them to the wall control, white on both sides.
I can't get the photo eyes to light no matter what I do. I swapped the wires & loosened the photo eyes & moved them around to see if I could get them to light. I also swapped the wall control wires. The only way it works is if I hold the wall control switch down until the door closes or opens.
There was nothing wrong with the eyes before I changed the panel. The reason I got the new panel was because the door would sometimes stop before closing or opening all the way. I then bought new sensors and a new control box. It worked fine for a while, then I had the same problem so figured if must be the panel which I just now replaced as a last resort.
The connections are all good. The only thing I can think of from what you said is that I damaged the sensors when I had the wrong connections to the terminal?? Should I get new sensors?
Well, I would do one check before calling the sensors bad.
First, do this:
Swap the location of the wires on the eyes at the opener.
Put the 2 with the red stripe on the gray terminal, and the 2 with all white on the white terminal.
If that does not correct the situation, then:
If you can:Get a very short cable for each eye.Connect the cables to the eyes and then get on a ladder and connect them to the opener right at the opener.This will verify that it is the eyes and not any of the wiring.One should light up immediately.The other one will light up when in direct line of the other one just like at the door area.When aligned the receiving eye lights up.The sending eye is always lit when wired and power on the opener unless it is bad.That is how we test them in field.If they test good, then you know something happened to the wires between the opener and the bottom of the door area.Otherwise, I would call them bad, as the board is brand new and hard to believe it has an issue.I do not know the replacements you purchased on the opener before, so I cannot speak to their compatibility, but would think if they worked, they certainly would work with the new board since the board is the correct one.
OK, the two car remotes & the wall control work, but when I program the keyless pad, it opens and closes as soon as I hit either the *, 0 or # XXXXX the keypad. It has no "enter" button, just the 10 digits and the * and # XXXXX
Never mind-it works fine. I was too impatient in that when the door is opening or closing, if you hit any button on the keypad, the door reverses when the lights on the keypad are lit. All works fine now. Thanks so much for your help!