Home Improvement Questions? Ask a Handyman for Answers ASAP
Hi, this is Ken,and I will hopefully be able to solve your problem, since I majored in audio engineering.
There are different techniques used for different purposes, for example music studios, annoying neighbors and busy streets, etc., and also for the type of construction.
Please tell me:
(1) The dimensions of the room, including ceiling height (without a dropped ceiling).
(2) Is the room a perfect rectangle with parallel walls?
(3) Wood/sheetrock construction?
(4) How many windows and doors, and their sizes?
(4) what is the source or the sound you are trying to squelch?
(5) In your own words, what are you trying to accomplish? Please be specific.
When I receive your reply, I will be able to help you.
p.s. It is late now, so please expect a reply tomorrow.
Room is kitchen about 12 X 12
Desired sound reduction is almost 100% impact from above subfloor and joists
Trying to decouple the subfloor impact source from the lower floor ceiling
Hi, this is Ken again.
Sorry, I did not get a complete answer. Let's try one more time.
I'm going to bed now (really).
please be complete. Otherwise, I cannot help you.
Those were the relevant answers to the questions you asked. Impact noise from above, need to decouple and dampen below.
I graduated with a degree in Electrical Engineering 42 years ago. I retired just 4 years ago. At that time, my consulting rate was $130 per hour. I have already spent 20 minutes trying to get answers from you in order to earn $15. I'm sorry, but I do not wish to spend any more time, since without complete information, I cannot give you any specific answers, and any answer I give might be the wrong one for your situation anyway. Thus, I have opted out of this question.
Please re-list your question and perhaps someone else might be willing to help you.
Yes, we're not building an acoustical orchesrta hall here, it just a matter of dampening and decoupling the upper level from the lower level. No involvement with windows, or room rectangular orientation. Thanks for having a look.
It's 9 1/2 feet give or take for the ceiling hight. This When I did the clip and channel ceiling it came down not more than an additional 2 inches below the old plaster and lathe.
I'm thinking staggering new joists between the exiting but slightly lower than the orignials and not touching existing joists or subfloor above (but onlyt to the perimeter ballon framed walls) will effectively decouple. People who sell channel and clip though seem fixated on flanking noise and say clip/channel is superior.
My scenario would have perimeter connections to the structure instead of 40-50 clips direct to the joists where the impact occurs. And any impact in the field of the floor above would have to travel over to walls and plates down into the stud wall below, into the new joists, through the rock & green glue and then out into the room.
Seems like same or less money than clip and chanel for 10 2X10X14s which I could level independant of the above joists which was a huge pain in living room of this 1885 house with low points in the center of the joists, and other issues with settling.
I could go the route of using a rubber impact absorbing underlayment in the future but I have to wait until the vinyl floor is ready to be redone, it has a few more years.
I had another expert advise that 2X10s should be strong enough to span a 12-13 ft room and carry 2 layer of 1/2 drywall (that would be unsupported and a complete spanning). The existing joists carrying all the weight of the up stairs space are only 2X8s but they are the growth true 2 inch stuff from 1885. Would you think 2X10s woul dbe sufficient? The only other weight would be a ceiling fan or something similar, or If I went with 5/8 drywall.
By engineered you mean the I beams made from particle wood, etc?
As far as access goes, I won't have direct access since this will be a rocked ceiling, the access will be limited to under the kitchen sink and in a linen closet.
Are you familiar with the clip and channel decoupling method used by many in this scenario and what are your thoughts on it vs mine (which should limit the noise to flanking which must travel a ways through surrounding structures to make it into the new ceiling?)
My numbers on the heavy duty RSIC rubber and metal clips and 20 guage hat channel is almost identical to 10-12 2X10s and the ease of leveling is what attacted me to this method. The clips are cool and everything but it killed me leveling the high and low spots in an old house.
I like the idea of putting drywall right on the wood as well.
What do you think about putting some strips of the rubber underlayment betwen the joist bottoms and the sheetrock? Not exactly clips but I can't see doing joists and the whole clip and channel system