Home Improvement Questions? Ask a Handyman for Answers ASAP
Please allow me a few minutes to reread your question.
New opener, new remotes new everything?
yes, plus new battery for remote.
you even replaced the new battery that came with the new remote with a new battery in addition?
Wow, I can see you have already performed some excellent troubleshooting, exactly where I would have went, the voltage values I have no reference in front of me, but they seem within reason, anything else going on sense this storm?
No other problems here, neighbors had differing problems though
Must have sent a big surge through your neighborhood you say the old remote would not work even within the five foot range but now you can get a signal to work within five feet, so there is a slight difference if I understand the details correctly
yes, we gained a little with the new motor. The remote wireless keypad will now close the door, but will not open ir, before we got no response from the keypad. so I also extended the antenna wire abour five inches- no help
Five feet in a complete radius around the opener?
yes, intermittent to about 8 feet
amazing, give me a minute as a long long long shot, you might try a lithium type 9 volt, I am assuming that the remotes are 9V
But even if that works I would think it would only extend the range by a nominal distance
do you have any idea where I can get a schematic of the receiver? I want to research how the safety sensor effect the input voltage to the receiving unit.
They didn't stick any of those clear plastic protector films on the front of the remotes? You sound way to smart to miss anything like that but I have to ask
Checked for all thet
OH boy, I can try and see if one can be taken out the back door, so proprietary but give me a model number
got to run out to get that, just a minute
I was going to suggest maybe jumping the safeties out and see what if anything changes
My wife is getting the model number. Yes, I was thinking of a jumper too, but I didn't want to risk it without a schematic.
Some of those low voltage circuits require a slight load
I have replied and he left the chat
Sorry the whole system went nuts I lost ability to chat But I have model and maybe I can find if a load value is needed and what it might be,
Please let me know if you find load value and I will check back in a few. Sometimes it helps just to talk these things through but I was disappointed when I saw you left and I was requested to leave a rating. I will update that if they allow it.
there I got my button back one way to make sure its not interference is to power down the entire house and then bring back just a circuit inside the house and run the new opener off that circuit via extension cord. Odds are your logic board is bad but interference does happen, and it can be as simple as a single unused extension cord, but you know that, however a bad new unit out of the box is not a real long reach I am going to boot my system, and then talk to a moderator, something is wrong I have no continuity with the chat, it even dumps me into bull dozer repair sorry we will chat and I will be working to look for you I will leave ANYTHING I find on here once I get this fixed I cannot space or make paragraphs even if I do get a chat connection my apologies I think it is JA not me sure actually anything get magnetized like a tool box of cabinet did you replace the track too? did it get magnetized anything that could be knocking the signal around, right now I am betting on bad new in the box but I will keep looking for the schematics and anything I want to know what this is just had a thought and if you have one you probably already did this do you have a non contact voltage tracer you could wander around in the garage with? I have a cell senso, a static sensor for triboelectric iissues maybe hanging a wire off the end of the structure somewhere not off the antenna but just a wire maybe a spare am coil or an fm antenna you might have laying around interference from the surge any devices, radios you name it that might have been effected from the surge, it almost sounds like it did not come through the power lines but was an induction type fault, even some aluminum foil positioned in different places if the signal increases the interfering signals are blocked/diverted I am sure my static meter would be going wild, either some interference from something else effected that is not noticeable yet, or the new unit is bad, but try to block any possible interference, divert it with a coil anything to find a spot where the signal increases, in the meantime I am looking for the schematic
I have stopped work for the night, but just to let you know I am already doing some of what you suggested, still no joy. Tomorrow I will be testing my next best guess. You may actually enjoy this bit of stretching thought, and I'll let you know the result. The thing left that can think of is interference from an electronic pet fence. I'll shut it down tomorrow and see if it helps. The only thing left is a newly installed Wi-Fi antennae about 100 feet away, should be a different freq range, but I'm out of ideas after the pet fence.
Its back I am trying to copy this whole conversation and figure out the problem I like your pet fence idea remember the aluminum foil, a section hung anywhere might give you a idea, after the tower, you can't know when it was energized it would be a huge problem to try and get someone to talk to you about it, with all the security issues these days, but same thing, try to block interference, next box up the main unit, on the way back to Sears if you can plug it in to a friends house and see what happens, if a new location allows the signal to get to the receiver well we know it is SOMETHING flowing through your garage, Can you measure current? I know you have 120.1 volts, but what is the current used by the lift, not sure what I will say if you tell me it is 5 amps over nameplate, or 10 amps under, but more pieces to the puzzle, Let's back up, storm remotes no longer function, we assumed as Sears did that the storm played a role, have you tried shutting everything off less the garage door opener ??? Then one by one flip the breakers on? Di you check your voltage in every room in your house? Could a neutral point somewhere become loose and become a high resistance connection, they are not going to give out a board level schematic, they do not do board level repairs, if you can measure the low voltage circuit current, you could calculate the load if any, and get a resistor of a value that would be close OR how about a decade box,? I wish you were closer I have all this stuff, and would be glad to loan it and help crawl around now your open circuit voltage was 120.1 but at load, what is it, open circuit voltage can drop like a rock, over some kind of high resistance load, did you replug all the connections at the opener unit, in some there is a signal deflector, I hate to ask you these questions, because I know you are way smarter than most but I am doing what I often do wrong overlook the simple of simple,
Will, Thanks for the chat, but still no answer. I will be eliminating the whole house today as we have been slowed by more thunder storms. I have to admit to you now this is not my problem but my next door neighbors, we discovered yesterday that their car remotes do not work when parked in the garage or driveway, but work fine when parked across the street. I was recommending another new opener when they demonstrated that little additional info. So, back to the elimination of the entire house before we give up. Another neighbor has the same type of opener and tested all the remotes on his unit and all worked to about 100 feet, so we are confident the remotes have adequate power and work as advertised. I think we should be eliminating the house today around 2 pm CDT. I'll come back in and let you know what we find.
Will, for future reference please share with all the experts. Isolated the problem to the doorbell, everything is up and running fine. Doorbell was operating fine, but something had to damage a coil to cause the rf interference. Change the doorbell and remotes work from at least a hundred feet now. Thanks
No, you misunderstood the part about across the street. The car remotes worked across the street after they moved the cars over there. The garage remotes never worked more than 5 feet from the motor. Doorbell fixed it all though