Home Improvement Questions? Ask a Handyman for Answers
Hello, and thanks for your question! My name is XXXXX XXXXX I am happy to assist you today!!
Are you talking about the overlap at the ends of the remaining 13ft roll?
If you are, The way we overlap this portion of the materials is done in one of 2 ways
There is not suppose to be any sealant or adhesive needed for this material
What we do to overlap the material at the ends by 12inches and then use a heavy roller (60 to 80) pounds to press the seam together.
Now, that said, This material is good but still tricky to install if your not very carefull
This material is best installed in the warm heat of the day not the colder morning or evening
Once you make your overlaps, let them sit in the direc sun if you can, if not let the material warm up before you run the roller over it. This way the adhesive is more pliable and more likely to make a good bond
After you make that seam with the roller, we create a reinforced seam (easier than it sounds) to connect the 2 pieces at the edge.
We do this by means of a modified roof coating and 4"wide polyester webbing.
The coating is thick like pudding and can be spread by paintbrush.
Apply the coating about 6inches wide so that there is 3 inches on each part of the materials that overlap.
Then cut and place the webbing over the top of the coating and work the webbing into the coating.
Then apply more coating material over the top of the webbing and smooth it out
This will give you a permanent seam that will last 10 years or better. We do this as a safety in case the seam doesn't stick well
Are you still online?
You seem to be offline right now. I need to log off for now. I hope this helps answer your question, If you have any questions about the installation I would be happy to assist you more.
Please do not rate my assistance until you are happy with my service.
Looking forward to your reply, Charles
OK Let me see if I get this right. Let one end lap over the other end a foot and roll it with a roller simlar to a lawn roller? What do you think of the torch down type of MOD BIT material over the self stick?
When you speak of coating material are you saying there is something to purchase besides the self stick on the roofing itself?
Hello again, sorry I had to step out for a bit
The self stick materials are a good material. But if your not use to working with it I sugest you apply the reinforced coating on the side seams
This is a system that has absolutely no room for error
If you don't get this material down perfect and you have a low slope roof, it will leak
The additional materials (coating and webbing) will run about $30 total on average and you can get it at the same place you purchased the materials
I use the torch down system allot more because you can tell when the seam is 100% good. When your heat the material it liquefies the asphalt on the back of the material, then when you roll out the material the asphalt will bleed out from the seam showing that it is 100%. If you see a black line about 1/8" to 1/4" coming out from under the seam you are good to go.
The roller is actually the same type that is used when you install linoleum flooring. You want a heavy concentrated pressure to make sure the sticky adhesive on the back of the materials makes 100% contact with the materials under it.
O.K, what kind of a torch tool do you own to get this down ? Name of it?
My torches are Pro grade and run $300 each, you don't need one like that. You can buy a cheaper torch at Home depot for about $50
They are usually sold in the welding supply area
You connect it to a propane tank and it has a hose about 15 to 20 feet long
I need to log off again and will be back in the morning
I can reply back to you at that time
Hi, I am nearly ready to lay the bituminus down. Each course is 20 ft and I beleive the rolls are over 36 possibly 48 inches wide. How many inches appart should the chalk line be apart from on another? The roofing is going to cover a 22 length. Ill leave you 5.00 tip when we are done. Thanks
The chalk line should actually be where you want to line up your overlap
Could you elaborate on that? show a picture? tHANKS
Im sorry, I tried to locate a picture of it for you but was not able to find one.
Where is the line that you refer to? The line is normally a marker to show where the next roll of roofing should sit when you un roll one roll onto the next.
Hi, We were talking about butuminous modified roofing earlier this month. Did you see a 5.00 tip in your account? If not let me know and I'll get it to your account. I purchased NORD mod bitu. roofing. I got a 100 pound roller 3 wheel linolnum. tool which means each wheel is 33 lbs each. I rolled the material and seams. When making a splice directions call for cutting the top corner of the granulated side at an angle. Then I heat up the self stick with a propane torch. Lay it down and roll it . The trimmed corner is supposed to let water flow over the lapping seam. Have you heard of it? The weather In Akron Ohio is now in the 85 to 90 degree range. Good weather for self stick . The line I was asking about was just past the 3 and 1/2 inch black strip on the granulated side. I am snapping a line 4 inches from its edge and then laying the next course of roofing on that line. Your answers were better than others so I'de like to stick with you if possible. I tip 5.00 for informative answers.I have about 10 more feet of plywood to cover and 10 more feet on the next roof. I have pitch questions which I can cover as soon as i get the measurement for the other roof today. I have a lady helper but her knee was too painfull so we took the day off and work saturday and sunday if need be. I am leaving another 5.00 tip so let me know if the first one got into your account. Thank, Bill
New post, please read
O.K I'll put a five in
We are now doing a tearoff of a 10 by 17 ft roof which was a shingle roof in 1955, then years later a torch down material was used followed by years of roof coating. So I had the idea my saw could cut it and it has made thius a lot easier. The roof is 3/8 inch thick .The roof joins a shingle slope roof . How many inches should the bituminous roof lay under the shingle roofing. I have extra shingles to replace any that get damage. What way do you join two roof together?
When you say doubling up do you mean having a 12 inch strip under the shingles along with the roll of bituminous self stick comming down from the shingle house roof onto the den roof whch has a pitch . I will give you its pitch this week. It used to have shingles for its first roof and I wondered if it could take another one. The garage turned out o.k but i saw a small drip leak where the 2 4x8 plywood sheets meet about 3/8th apart and the leak ran mabey 14 inches then stopped . let me know about doubling.
I am talking about the roofing material itself. I double it in that area because if anybody ever steps an the joint where the 2 roof structures meet then the material can tear
So there would be one layer and another layer making a bend from the lower roof onto the shingle roof with 12 inches of selvage under the shingle roof. > right, wrong?
Had my tarp not properly tucked up and the rain came into my room totaling out the furnishings including the carpet. Haste makes waste. Got it right now. Noticed during rainstorm the old portion of roof is thick and curles up under the sgingle roof very well. Is strong too . I was thinking of roofing over this good section with the mod butimun and going up under the shingles as far as the old roof goes under them. Do you see any thing wrong doing this as opposed to ripping out this curved old section thats under the shingles?After I finish this week I can put new r-30 insulation in the roof and look for a deal on carpet. The trap now hold out rain untill I get the roof finished. Rain is heavy here in Ohio this summer.-
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX will get it "Bone Dry" before I close it up. Where the old roof ends its not stuck down . I have cut much of the old roof back and intend to cut some m0re leaving about 3 feet of the old roof out past the pitch shingle roof. The built up roof has a pitch too. I planed to lay a 4 inch strip of eternabond roof tape 4 inches wide over the edge of the built up roof and stick it down to the wood substrate which is now bare to form a lip seal so no water can get into the cut edge of the built up roofing I have cut . In the garaGE WHICH IS FINISHED I SAW ONE LEAK WHERE THE 4 BY 8 SHEETS OF PLYWOOD 5/8 Thick make a gap. It started about 13 inches and rolled down and stopped where I have a metal lock clip joining the two sheets together. The roof was well covered . The only thing I saw was the top lap of the roof was about an inch past the black self stick of the bottom lap so the top one inch didnt get stuck down to the bottom black self stick edge layer. The supplier said I should lap the top layer 4 to 5 inches and I did 5 inches. Now I think I should have done it so the top self stick only meet the bottom layer self stick . It would make it impossible then for water to roll under the joint where the 2 meet. I am thinking of getting a piece of sheet metal 2 feet long and laying it along under the unsealed top lip layer. Then heat it up carefully untill its sticky and roll it shut while hot to the bottom layer. Do the same treatment for all parts that are unstuck. Everything else is stuck excellent .? comments. I'll leave you a 5.00 tip as soon as my computer gets me to a link for tips.. Any theories about the gap leak> What do you think of the eternabond sealing the old roof lip cut?
I had very o;d 60 years, roll insulation that I will get out this week rather than later due to your suggestion about mold. I want to spray the entire interior celing with something that kills mold. Do you have some names?
Hi, need a reply
I did reply but not sure why you did not get it.
With respect to the joint between the flat roof and the shingles, the only way you can get a 100% seal is to run the new materials up and under the shingles.
On the mold prevention, I would either buy a pre-mixed solution from Home Depot or Lowes, it comes in a spray bottle and is ready to go. The name escapes me but they actually have a few brands. The brand in my local store is probably different than yours. It is found in the painting area of the store normally by the paint thinners.
The other thing is to make a water / bleach solution of not less that 10% bleach to 90% water and spray it on the area. Allow it to dry and then continue with your work.
I hope this helps,