Hi and thanks for using JustAnswer.com.
Sounds like a corroded connector to the PC board, or the board itself. If you give me the model number, I'll look it up for you.
Took a look- Culligan uses the same head on all models- E2 means the motor is stuck. These motors are soldered to the boards. They probably went with electronics so plumbers could not service their brand. Electronics are not required. A motor is and should be able to be easily replaced by a homeowner. Nope they prevented that too by soldering the motor to the board. So--Like the manual says " call a Culligan service technichan". If there are any metal parts, other than springs, on your model, I would consider junking it and get a new one that is all plastic, with a easily replaced timer/motor, made by a company that isn't dedicated to screwing the purchaser.
Stephen, thanks for your reply. It looks like a little black plastic something (motor?) with a circuit board that is labeled Build A BA01543, near the lower left corner of the base compartment is what looks like corroded acid-like a car battery gets. I tried brushing it off with a steel wook bristed brush but doesn't help. Is there a solvent that might make it easier? On the Culligan logo label it reads Model No. 01014042.
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX the answer. The Culligan logo plate reads Model number 01014042 and the circuit board reads BUILD A BA01543 I tried to brush off the clump of corrosion with a steel bristled brush but no help. Is there a solvent that might break up that clump? Thanks again, Toni
Unfortunately once acid gets on the board it etches through the insulating material and shorts out the printed circuits. You can scrub it shiney clean, but the insulation is gone and the shorts remain. I'll check the Culligan site to see if they sell replacement boards to consumers.
Culligan ( no surprise) only sells through dealers. You can find ones near you by typing your zip code into their web site "find dealer" box.
My aftermarket appliance connections do not carry it.
In hindsight Salt Water and Electronics are a BAD combination, but good for repair charges. I am not impressed with Culligan whatsoever.
So, Stephen, is there any other way to repair this without Culligan? They charge $85 to walk in the door plus all the other parts and labor. I'm not even willing to give them the $85 ! I'm soooo disconcerted. Florida water is really bad and filled with calcium, and all kind of other junk. I have used a Britta gallon pitcher for my drinking water for the last 10 years.
Is there some way an independent plumber can bypass the Culligan circuit board and manage to get this unit up and running? I wouldn't mind spending money with a good, kind, reputable plumber but I am really fed up with the Culligan folks.
All you need from Culligan is a replacement board and if you pick it up from the dealer there should be no service charge. he will have done nothing but make a phone call.
I live in Ruskin FL and have an Autotrol Series 255 valve/ 440 control. It is made by Osmonics. It is all plastic except for the motor that drives the Cam. Nothing to rust. The cam can be manually operated if a hurricane knocks out power. I have had no problem with it- it is 9 years old and works great. I will NEVER need a dealer service repairman! I paid $449 for it. If it was me in your situation I would add up the cost of the new board, any dealer markup, and calculate your annual cost to date(mine is $49/yr to date). Then I would subtract the cost of the board & dealer charges from the cost of an Autotrol Series 255/440 control. If the balance is less than $100 over the cost to fix the Culligan again, I would dump the Culligan and get an Autotrol. You might be able to beat the dealer down on his quote for a new board if he aware you are on the verge of selling your Culligan for parts and getting a reliable whole house system by his competetor. He might even want it for parts.
Then again, being me, I'd be so pissed off I would dump the pile of junk in his parking lot (at night) with a note:
note: Keep this piece of worthless $%^&!
Well, Stephen, I think you've said it all! You are sooo accurate with your evening suggestion and the note that should be attached. I think I will follow your advice. I am on our Homeowner's Board and I think I will first talk to my irrigation contractor (a nice guy named Mike) and see if he can suggest a plumber that might be able to rig up something cheap. If not I'll look into some of Culligan's competitors and dump all their "crap" in front of their sales office with a great big sign that reads...."The picture of this crap you sell and call a water softener will appear in the Tampa Tribune!! "
I'll keep you posted ... if you come up with any other ideas let me know. Thanks for everything, my friend! Toni XXX@XXXXXX.XXX