Ask a Heavy Equipment Repair Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi, Welcome to Just Answer, I am Clayton. I can help you with this.
Hey, Hows it going, sounds like you are having some major engine problems
Yes can you help?
Yes I can
Have mechanic capable of engine overhauls on automobiles and light duty trucks but he has never worked on this particular engine and we are wondering if there are any tests we can do to determine if the head needs to be removed or the compressor is allowing oil into the engine, or other more serious problems.
Coolant in the oil could be, Cracked cylinder liner or o-rings, head gasket, or head
What would be the next step? Removing head, or oil pan?
I would drain the oil, and remove the pan..pressure up the cooling system and see if you see any leaks around the liners
Ok we will do that and get back to you. Like I mentioned earlier we are in the process of downloading the engine repair manual. We believe we have a source but have not quite gotten there yet. I would think you will hear from us by 12 noon today. What are your hours today?
I work nites at my main job, so I sleep, but I get a text message when I get a reply, I will do what I can to get back to you around that time, otherwise it might be around 5 or 5:30.
Where did you find the engine repair manual online?
Oh ya, the oil cooler could be leaking per the service manual, but it is usually the opposite, oil in the coolant. I would do what I suggested first then move on
Is this truck a Century or a Columbia?
I thought I found the correct manual on a website called auto cd but after registration I am unable to find the engine manual I had found earlier. The truck is a Columbia. The manual that I had found cost 40.00. Do you know of a site where I can get one for free?
No, I have a paper manual, but nothing on CD. I do not know where you can find one for free. Removing the oil pan on a columba with a MBE 4000 is not just dropping the oil pan
You have to lower the axle to get the pan out
Ok. When my assistant gets into our office this morning, he may be better finding a manual either on Detroits or Mercedes website.
Will be back in touch later. My wife does the typing for me as I am a slow typer. Thank you.
He might can order one. I suggest buying one, it will save you TONS, I can provide you with torque specs, and some service information
Let me know, I will check back when you all find out something
We are wondering how much of your time we get for 48.00. If there are additional charges let us know. we got the pan off and there was half inch of gray sludge. no sign of metal. although the gray sludge does look matalic but does not stick to a magnate. we are conerned about the disoloration on the crank shaft which could be caused from overheating. should we pull the the rod and main bearing cap off to see there condition? pistons and walls that we can see do not appear scored.
It would not hurt to pull a couple of rod and mains, alot of coolant in the oil can burn up a set of engine bearings if not address pretty quick
As far as my time, you get as much as you need til you are satisfied with my answer.
Like I said, I can provide torque specs and service info so $48 bucks is very small price to pay for troubleshooting and service information. Compared to taking it to a dealer, $48 is not even 1/2hr of labor at most dealerships.
Oh, And I apoligize for the delay, I did not get the email about your reply
I am online, Just checking up on what you have found.
We removed one rod bearing cap and bearings looked like normal maybe a slight streak from a little bit of dirt getting in the engine. Oh and by the way, we discovered that the air filter was not installed properly when we took the air box off. Looks like the motor has taken in a little bit of dirt. We are not going to remove any more main bearings or rod bearings as the one we took off looked just fine. What should the torque be on the one rod bearing cap? I think we put it at 140 pounds. Put pressure in the coolant system and filled it with water, pressurized it to 15 pounds, leaks down to about 9 pounds and sounds like it is coming through the cap on the plastic tank. Dont see any water leaking out around the piston sleeves. Dont know at this point what I want to do with this truck. We are a little reluctant to pull the heads off. I am just trying to get an idea of the extent of damage to the engine and where the water in the oil is coming from. I am interested in purchasing the truck and am trying to determine the value of it considering the damage to the engine. I feel good about the crank mains and rods. It appears that there was oil in the coolant tank. Does the water pump cool the engine oil? Could that be where the water is entering the crank case? What are your thoughts?
If it ingested any dirt, dirt can wipe out a turbo, you might be buying a turbo in the future, it is a good thing you caught it early. Turbos for this truck are rather expensive. Anyways, If you found oil in the coolant, then that usually indicates the oil cooler is leaking. Oil pressure is higher than coolant system pressure, so the oil forces its way through the cooler, well. Coolant can also get into the oil this way if coolant system pressure is higher than oil pressure(Engine hot, but not running). The oil cooler is inside the Oil Filter housing on the right side of the engine, the oil filter housing has to come off the access the cooler. I have not seen many oil coolers on these engines leak, but that does not mean that they do not.
I would inspect the turbo very well, if the engine has injested dirt, cylinder walls can get scratched and can lead to blowby and oil consumption issues. If you buy it, Buy it cheap as you can. Because you still MIGHT have a headgasket problem. I would replace the oil cooler, clean out the oil pan, flush the cooling system. Add new coolant and check the engine oil everyday to see if this fixed the problem. If it did not, I would pull the heads and do headgaskets. When we inspect a bottom end, We usually pull one main, then one rod. If this truck was not having oil pressure problems, I would agree with you about the mains and the rods.
The connecting rod bolts are stretch bolts, Replace any bolts that exceed the maximum length of 68.5 mm (2.70 in.).
Max. Shaft Length: mm (in.)?
Torque Value: N·m (lb·ft)?
additional 90 degrees?
If you decide to pull a main cap down, here is the torque for it as well.
Replace any bolts that exceed the maximum shaft length of 156.0 mm (6.14 in.)
Lubricate the main bearing-cap bolts with a light coating of clean engine oil. Install all the M18 x 2 main bearing-cap bolts, in the correct order, as removed. Tighten each one in four stages, listed in Table "Tightening Stages, Main Bearing-Cap Bolts" , stage by stage.
Here is a picture of the oil filter housing, oil cooler is inside of this. It is easy to remove, you should not have to remove the turbo charger to do it.
If your oil pressure is below 7 psi at idle, and below 36psi at full engine RPM, I would be concerned, This is the MINIMUM the oil pressure should be, any lower, then you have issues. But if not, You got to the bottom end just in time.
I have not been getting any emails saying you are reply to this thread, but I will check again in the morning. Thanks for being patient with me.