Sorry, My first time and I was trying to update my question.. I had a secondary question about the engine temp gauge. Mine bounces all over the place for temp. but the engine temp is fine. The fan still engages when it should.. and teh truck has only gotten to hot twice. But since it only through the engine temp code and the yellow light came on. the computer didn't catch the code. so, $300.00 later tehy tell me it's probably the gauge, but they don't have one in stock.. I was to undertand that these cascadias are all computer run and the gauges, and 2 engine temp sensors are all run through one of the brains of this thing. Does this mean I can't just change out the gauge, I have to have F/L do it? thx and again, sorry.
Last six of vin are AG6079

Last 6 of vin are AG6079

Leak is at the firewall as far as I know... I found oil on the rubber cover of the Clutch and on the floor mat. if they found any other leaks, they didn't tell me. and the clutch layout didn't come through. "The requested URL /uploads/gowest/2010-08-09_045753_c3.pdf was not found on this server." Thanks for taking the time to help me understand. these darn new trucks are just way to complicated.. I'm a wire tie and duct-tape gal...
Their explianation is, that the hydraulic clutch assembly is leaking, thus there is not enough fluid in the cylinder to proper though the clutch. so we have a "Clutch" we just can not get to the "Clutch Brake". The reservoir for the hydraulic fluid/brake fluid, never got below the safe zone. they ordered a hydraulic repair kit and a big log part number. we were told that they didn't get the "right parts, missing one" when I went back in to talk with them later... I see an entire hydrolic clutch assembly for $500 bucks added to the bill. And I don't understand why. thus wanting to see the moster knowns as a hydraulic clutch and why it is so expensive... Thx

Got the pict to load. explained a lot. It's not exactly like mine, but close enough I get it. The leak is right where the Shaft from the clutch pedal meets the floorboard of the truck. the Protective "Sleeve" is wet at the base, right where it meets the floor board. From what I see in the picture, this is all one unit, you can't just replace a gasket or the plunger assembly, you have to replace the whole clutch pedal and assembly, assembly being the "thing" that encases the hydrolic plungers and the hydrolic fluid which activate the clutch. Also, the clutch is fine. we have clutch and we have a clutch brake. we just can't activate the clutch brake because of the leak, there is not enough fluid maintained inthe hydraulic clutch "thingy" to pushy the plunger all the way down when we push the clutch pedal to the floor. I know "Thingy" is a girl term but I don't know what to call it. There is a cylinder under the floor board, it holds to pulngers and hydraulic fluid. you push in the clutch, plunger 1 pushes against the fluid which pushes against plunger 2. plunger 2 then activates the clutch in the transmission. since the fluid leaks when the clutch pedal is pressed, there is not enough fluid to push plunger 2 in to fully activate the transmission clutch and allow the clutch brake to be activated. Do I have it right? am I in the ball park, am I even playing the right game?

they ordered a repair kit and a part number for $xxx. got that in Saturday and they found it was right, they needed the hydraulic Clutch assembly. so we are waiting and hoping... it comes Monday. so, there shouldn't be any other surprises and I should make sure they replace the assembly, not just part and repair. right?

LMAO! for $500. I'd better get a new pedal and flowers!!! I won't push for a phone call.. I know better LMAO.
So, How can my company make this failure my fault? can they accuse me of riding hte clutch (Which I DON'T DO) or some other stupid thing to make this my fault or is it basically, things break/ fail? be the devils advicate! I need to be prepared for the fight! and their wll be a fight.

I would have done that, But they had to rush order it after the mistake in ordering. So, I'm stuck there. This is actually a company truck, but I hate not understanding and knowing about my truck. And Freightliner is so closed mouth about these cascadias. Plus, most tech's / mechanic's are cranky and can't take the time to explain things. To many steering wheel holders out there today, not enough drivers. Thanks for taing the time to clear things up for me. Do you have a sec to do engine temp? I know it is getting late.

We had the truck in at Kansas City F/L and they did the computer thing. the truck threw the red and yellow check engine light (which the computer recorded) the truck threw the yellow check engine light twice= high engine temp, and it threw the yellow engine light down at the base of the dash, next to the rpm gauge 3 times. the red and yellow check engine= the engine was hot we were pulling a huge hill loaded heavy. The yellow check engine= the dash showed engine hot warning, but the engine block, radiator and engine valve covers were all 200ish by my laser temp gauge. (yah I know not the most acurate but was better than nothing. the lower yellow light, engine was at 150ish, but the dash still showed engine hot and the engine fan was on. The gauge, was bouncing from 100 to 275 in each case.

Not quite pin to pin, it would bounce to 100 and hang, then rise up a little the bounce to 200, creep to 225, drop to 150, creep to 175 then bounce back up to 225. One mechanic told me that there were 2 temp sensors in these beasts. one for the engine oil temp and one for the coolant temp. both sent their info to the brain and the brain sent it's final anser to the gauge. So he thought that one of the sensors was going bad, thus the fluctuation in temps. but KC put the truck on the computer, for 2 hours, (letting the truck cool down) then took it out for aXXXXXbobtail.... and declared that the computer showed only one high temp code and that all was well. I asked to speak with whom ever I need to to get premission to have the mech. ride along while I drove with a loaded trl so I could prove I wasn't nuts. that's when I was told... "The gauge is bad, but we don't have one in stock" "The engine will protect itself and shut down before it burns up. the gauge is just there because the drivers expect to see it" (not a good answer to give someone like me). And they may be right, the gauge might be bad... but there are so many other things, the thermostat sticking could cause these changes right? and if there are 2 sensors, 2 different readings could cause this great truck brain to fart? right? is the gauge just the easy fix? and if so, why did they charge $227. to shoot an arrow in the dark?

Yes, That helps greatly. Thank you so very much for your time and patience. Have a good night