I am really sorry to bother you.... but, Can you explain the hydraulic clutch system on the 2009 cascadias? Is there a diagram available for me to look at? My clutch has a leak and the freightliner I am at ordered the repair kit and Seal, But they now tell me that they had to order the entire clutch assembly to complete repairs. Being a not-mechanically-inclined female of the species... I don't understand, and I can't find a diagram or picture of the clutch system so I can. Thanks for your time
Make (other): Freightliner
Engine: series 60
Letting Freightliner fix it... and waiting forever for parts.
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Hi there.i can help you with this..
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ill need the last 6 of you vin and ill take a look.
Sorry, My first time and I was trying to update my question.. I had a secondary question about the engine temp gauge. Mine bounces all over the place for temp. but the engine temp is fine. The fan still engages when it should.. and teh truck has only gotten to hot twice. But since it only through the engine temp code and the yellow light came on. the computer didn't catch the code. so, $300.00 later tehy tell me it's probably the gauge, but they don't have one in stock.. I was to undertand that these cascadias are all computer run and the gauges, and 2 engine temp sensors are all run through one of the brains of this thing. Does this mean I can't just change out the gauge, I have to have F/L do it? thx and again, sorry.Last six of vin are AG6079
Last 6 of vin are AG6079
ok lets stick to the first question for now with your clutch
click here this is the clutch control layout
you'll see that connected to your clutch peddle there is a hydraulic line that when the peddle is pushed it activates a fork inside the bell housing that releases the clutch
now your leak is it at your reservoir on the firewall or down at the transmission?
with the pic the gray line is the hydraulic hose
as for your leak i don't understand as to why the clutch needs to be done...what is there explanation??
Leak is at the firewall as far as I know... I found oil on the rubber cover of the Clutch and on the floor mat. if they found any other leaks, they didn't tell me. and the clutch layout didn't come through. "The requested URL /uploads/gowest/2010-08-09_045753_c3.pdf was not found on this server." Thanks for taking the time to help me understand. these darn new trucks are just way to complicated.. I'm a wire tie and duct-tape gal... Their explianation is, that the hydraulic clutch assembly is leaking, thus there is not enough fluid in the cylinder to proper though the clutch. so we have a "Clutch" we just can not get to the "Clutch Brake". The reservoir for the hydraulic fluid/brake fluid, never got below the safe zone. they ordered a hydraulic repair kit and a big log part number. we were told that they didn't get the "right parts, missing one" when I went back in to talk with them later... I see an entire hydrolic clutch assembly for $500 bucks added to the bill. And I don't understand why. thus wanting to see the moster knowns as a hydraulic clutch and why it is so expensive... Thx
i tried that link i sent you and it worked
try it a couple of times and it may work if not let me know
this part that they sold you is it actually a clutch or the clutch control if they can't get clutch brake did they happen to replace the slave cylinder at the trans instead?
now when they ordered that part and said they were missing parts what happened there?
Got the pict to load. explained a lot. It's not exactly like mine, but close enough I get it. The leak is right where the Shaft from the clutch pedal meets the floorboard of the truck. the Protective "Sleeve" is wet at the base, right where it meets the floor board. From what I see in the picture, this is all one unit, you can't just replace a gasket or the plunger assembly, you have to replace the whole clutch pedal and assembly, assembly being the "thing" that encases the hydrolic plungers and the hydrolic fluid which activate the clutch. Also, the clutch is fine. we have clutch and we have a clutch brake. we just can't activate the clutch brake because of the leak, there is not enough fluid maintained inthe hydraulic clutch "thingy" to pushy the plunger all the way down when we push the clutch pedal to the floor. I know "Thingy" is a girl term but I don't know what to call it. There is a cylinder under the floor board, it holds to pulngers and hydraulic fluid. you push in the clutch, plunger 1 pushes against the fluid which pushes against plunger 2. plunger 2 then activates the clutch in the transmission. since the fluid leaks when the clutch pedal is pressed, there is not enough fluid to push plunger 2 in to fully activate the transmission clutch and allow the clutch brake to be activated. Do I have it right? am I in the ball park, am I even playing the right game?
your bang on..now ive seen this and the correct repair is to do the peddle assembly
or master cylinder... same thing.
don't let them rebuild it just replace...is that what they did then?..or what we're they up too ??
they ordered a repair kit and a part number for $xxx. got that in Saturday and they found it was right, they needed the hydraulic Clutch assembly. so we are waiting and hoping... it comes Monday. so, there shouldn't be any other surprises and I should make sure they replace the assembly, not just part and repair. right?
yes if the leak is at the peddle.do the peddle..when you order the part it comes in a huge box and you get a brand new peddle with the master cylinder!!
LMAO! for $500. I'd better get a new pedal and flowers!!! I won't push for a phone call.. I know better LMAO. So, How can my company make this failure my fault? can they accuse me of riding hte clutch (Which I DON'T DO) or some other stupid thing to make this my fault or is it basically, things break/ fail? be the devils advicate! I need to be prepared for the fight! and their wll be a fight.
yes they fail and even if the clutch was being ridden..it would have no bearing..
ill tell ya one other thing is buy the peddle over the counter at the parts dept and then supply it to service for install.if you buy over the counter you'll save money because they usually add shop supplies to your bill as a percentage so if that peddle isn't on your service bill it'll keep the total down thus lowering the shop supplies premium you pay ..
I would have done that, But they had to rush order it after the mistake in ordering. So, I'm stuck there. This is actually a company truck, but I hate not understanding and knowing about my truck. And Freightliner is so closed mouth about these cascadias. Plus, most tech's / mechanic's are cranky and can't take the time to explain things. To many steering wheel holders out there today, not enough drivers. Thanks for taing the time to clear things up for me. Do you have a sec to do engine temp? I know it is getting late.
ok engine temp
the way it works is the coolant temp sender on the engine sends info to engine ecm
inturn the ecm via the datalink sends the temp reading to the dash and voilà!.thats how it works..theres aliitle more to it but in a nutshell thats how it works
BUT when the guage starts to act up does the check engine light go on as well? does it look like there is a relation?.if yes then i would try a sender
if no you can try a guage.let me know you can do the guage yourself..there's nothing to it!
We had the truck in at Kansas City F/L and they did the computer thing. the truck threw the red and yellow check engine light (which the computer recorded) the truck threw the yellow check engine light twice= high engine temp, and it threw the yellow engine light down at the base of the dash, next to the rpm gauge 3 times. the red and yellow check engine= the engine was hot we were pulling a huge hill loaded heavy. The yellow check engine= the dash showed engine hot warning, but the engine block, radiator and engine valve covers were all 200ish by my laser temp gauge. (yah I know not the most acurate but was better than nothing. the lower yellow light, engine was at 150ish, but the dash still showed engine hot and the engine fan was on. The gauge, was bouncing from 100 to 275 in each case.
you mean the guage was going pin to pin? like it was cutting out?
Not quite pin to pin, it would bounce to 100 and hang, then rise up a little the bounce to 200, creep to 225, drop to 150, creep to 175 then bounce back up to 225. One mechanic told me that there were 2 temp sensors in these beasts. one for the engine oil temp and one for the coolant temp. both sent their info to the brain and the brain sent it's final anser to the gauge. So he thought that one of the sensors was going bad, thus the fluctuation in temps. but KC put the truck on the computer, for 2 hours, (letting the truck cool down) then took it out for aXXXXXbobtail.... and declared that the computer showed only one high temp code and that all was well. I asked to speak with whom ever I need to to get premission to have the mech. ride along while I drove with a loaded trl so I could prove I wasn't nuts. that's when I was told... "The gauge is bad, but we don't have one in stock" "The engine will protect itself and shut down before it burns up. the gauge is just there because the drivers expect to see it" (not a good answer to give someone like me). And they may be right, the gauge might be bad... but there are so many other things, the thermostat sticking could cause these changes right? and if there are 2 sensors, 2 different readings could cause this great truck brain to fart? right? is the gauge just the easy fix? and if so, why did they charge $227. to shoot an arrow in the dark?
wow those tech's in KC have
some interesting theories..any who the coolant temp guage controls the coolant temp guage and thats it!!now if the guage swings from 200 to 150 in 5 seconds thats physically impossible.so i would suspect sender or guage.now are you able to make you check engine light to come on with the truck stopped and the brake on?.if so we can check for codes on your dash but only if the light is on...its up to u try a guage its possible but if the check engine light is coming on when it faults it could be a actual overheat problem or sender...i hope this helps..well its almost midnight here in beautiful b.c. and im calling it a night we can continue tomorrow if you like and if i've helped you in anyway i do hope you accept my answer and as for those tech's in KC if they tell u anything else thats off let me know and ill help u straighten it out...nighty night..
Yes, That helps greatly. Thank you so very much for your time and patience. Have a good night