GM Repair Problems? Ask GM Repair Expert Now.
Does your truck have a/c?
let me look up the wire diagram for your truck with out a/c. Be right back.
What is the voltage of the brown wire at the blower motor switch with the ignition switch in the run position?
If you look on the fire wall on the passange side of the truck There is a conector that leads under the hood. It shuld have 3 wires.
see what the voltage is for the brown wire on both sides of the fire wall please.
it might take a minute
please hold on, the conector may not be in the fire wall on the non ac truck. Be right back with the exact location for you.
I don't see it Is it behind the junction block cover
The plug you are looking for is under the dash on the drivers side, let me post a diagram of its location for you. be right back.
Here is the diagram. I marked the conector with red ink.
When you test the body side of the plug, please unplug the plug
should ignition be on or off how about blower switch
ignition switch in the run position, and it does not amtter for the blower motor switch
I don't see any three wire plugs but it is getting dark and it is raining on me.
Would you like to continue tomorrow?
The plug is actualy a 6 wire plug with 3 wires in it.
And it may only have two wires.
There may be 4 wires in the plug, it all depends on all of the accessories you have.
yes. Would the plug be hanging loose or maybee attached to something? what other color wires
the plug will be up high near the steering column
would it be a flat plug or more of a square plug
it will be rectangular, and I am sorry I cannot find the wire colors for the other wires in the plug, but there will definantly be atleast two blank pin holes in the plug. and it will definantly have a brown and a black wre.
The wires to this plug will come from the heater control deck, and the body side of the plug will come out of the main wire harness on the passanger side of the steering column.
ok I'll look in the morning under more favorable conditions and get back with you
Chat with you then.
If you find it and you only have 4.5 volts to both sides of the plug, you will need to get to the back side of the fuse box and see what the voltage is for the brown wire off of the fuse. If you have 12 volts to the wire itself on the back side of the fuse box, then you will need to run a new wire from the back of the fuse box to the plug next to the steering column.
make sure to cut the opld wire at the plug and the fuse box, and solder the new wire in and use heat shrink tubing to seal off the repair.
I found the plug you are talking about. I think. It is a six wire plug and has three wires running through it. It has a brown wire a black wire and a smaller diamater tan? wire. The brown wire goes to the blower switch. The only access to this plug that I can see is through the middle of the dash behind the dash vent that I have removed. Was having a hard time getting a reading on the switch side of the plug so I unplugged the plug. The plug is burnt inside. The switch side of the plug is toast but the fuse side looks intact and has 12 volts coming to it. The fuse side of the plug has a little discoloration but doesn't look deformed and the switch side of plug is half melted. Two questions. What caused the plug to burn? My guess is that the .blower motor is going bad and pulling too many amps. The bigger question is how to make repairs access is going to be a big problem unless I can find the exact same plug and only replace the switch side of it.
I would agree with you the blower motor is pulling to hard and needs to be replaced. Is the switch side of the plug a mail or a felail conector inside the plug?
sorry felail should be femail.
Female, I thought that maybe I could use female insulated spade type connectors and connect each wire individually.
The best thing to do would be to pull the old burnt conector out of the plug, and cut it off of the wire running to the switch. Then solder a new conector to the wire and reconect the plug, then slide the new conector into the plug so it conects to the body side conector inside the old plug.
Make sure to clean the male conector on the body side of the plug so the two conectors make good contact.
It is best to only replace what you have to replace. Less is more when it comes to electrical problems. You do not want to replace all the conectors as this can cause more problems in the long run.
Where can I find this exact same plug GM dealer? I don't see any way to replace the whole plug other than removing the dash. No room to work on the fuse side.
With the amperage that is pulled through the conectors, it is best to solder the conector to the wire and not just crimp it. Crimping is not a solid conection and you WILL have trouble out of the conection later down the road, so please solde the conector to the wire.
can you still plug the teo plugs into each other?
teo should be two.
As for replaceing the whole plug, you would have to go to a salvage yard and cut one out of an old truck. Gm does not sell this " pig tail".
As long as the other two wire conectors are still good in the plug, just replace the bad female conector for the brown wire.
use a small flat head screw driver to scrape the male conector so it is good and clean before you reconect the new conector to it to make sure you get a good clean conection between the two conectors.
I don't know. One corner of the feamale plug is pretty much melted away. I don't know if there is enough plug left to hold the connectors.
Youare still better off just replaceing the the one bad conector. Just pull the old burnt conector out of the plug and slide the new conector into the old plug.
The other two wires are low amp wires, so as long as they where not damaged they should be ok as is.
You should also use heat shrink tubing to cover the end of the conector that will stick up past the end of the plug.
Thete is nothing there to keep the brown wire off the black wire. it appears that they are touching each other
That is not good. Then you will have to pull both ends out of the plug and conect the two speratly, then use heat shrink tubing to cover the the conectors.
make sure the blck wire cannot come into contact with the tan wire. The tan wire shoudl run to the light in the control deck.
If yu want to you can wire a blade type fuse holer to the two ends of conectors brown wires and then use a 25 amp fuse to bridge the conection to double the safety of the wire.
I guess I can find the connectors I need at any parts store?
Here is a link to auto zone for the perfect fuse holder to use. The wire gage is exactly what you need to use.
then just plug the old plug back together so the other tw wires are conected.
Do you have any idea why this wouldn't blow fuse in fuse block?
Make sure to solder your conections and use heat shrink tubeing to protect the conections.
more then likely the added amp draw heated the conection so the conection was loose. The loosenes of the conectos created to much heat and that is why the cplug melted. The fuse would not blow unless the there was a short to ground.
Make sure to only use a 25 amp fuse if yu decide to solder in the fuse holder I posted.
I guess that I should replace the blower motor? Only talking about $25
Yes you shouldl replace the bower motor as well.
I guess they don't make things like they used to. Only lasted 18 yrs. ha! ha!
18 years on a blower motor is prety good, they normaly only last about 10 years.
I'll get parts and get to work. Talk to you when I'm done unless I have a problem.
if you have a problem I will be here to help you.
All done! You probably wouldn't approve of what I did but it works for me. I cut away what was left of the burnt plug to free the light colored wire and connector. I didn't replace any connectors I just put heat srink tubing around them to insulate them and plugged them back in to the other half of the plug. Replaced blower motor blower works on all three speeds. You said that it is best to not replace any more than you have to and all I replaced was the blower motor. The old connectors didn't look that bad to me they just got warm and melted the plastic around them. The insulation around the wires wasn't melted. I didn't see any use for the additional fuse. I feel lucky that the problem was in the first place we looked but I guess that is why I pay you.
here is the only thing i see wrong with what you did. The female conector will not make a good tight conectiion due to the heat that was placed on it. this heat will weeken the metal and you will have problmes out of it in the future. It is best to atleast replace the female conector, so you do not have trouble out of it again.