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Martin
Martin, Engineer
Category: General
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Experience:  i'm 41 and i never stopped studying and experimenting
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I have 4 ceder adirondack chairs that do not now have any finish.

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I have 4 ceder adirondack chairs that do not now have any finish. I need guidence on best finish: the chairs are in use from late spring through fall in filtered sun but not much rain. They are sored indoors in winter. I don't want to paint them. Would like to use some kind of oil to keep the wood from cracking--I don't mind renewing the finish annually nor am I concerned with what color the wood turns as it ages--gray or brown is fine. What do your experts suggest.
Hello and welcome. I would use boiled linseed oil as they won't be in a very harsh environment. You can also look into marine grade varnish with UV protection.
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Customer: replied 3 years ago.


When I've used linseed oil in teh past, and that is very seldom, I got a sticky finish. Would this be a problem? the varnish idea is interesting, but would there be a buildup of varnish over time?

Yes, that is the downside of linseed oil. Usually cedar take it well, you must not use too much. There is lot of different formula that can lead to different results. The polymerized drying oils product will be less sticky.

About the UV resistant marine varnish, you also need to put it very thin. Not much ticker than a typical bee wax protection on an indoor wood object. That stuff last a very long time.

You can get a cedar shingle sample at the hardware store and test different solution and see what you prefer (in relation to ease of use and curing time).
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Hi, I'm back from a several week vacation. In doing some related research, I wonder if using Teak oil would do the job. It appears it has quicker drying time between coats, a plus for me as I'll only be at the cabin where the chairs are for short periods. So, do you think boiled linseed oil would be abetter choice even though I'd have to make the applications over several visits? Thanks for your patience on this.


Glenn

Yes, Teak oil is an equivalent. I have seen wood protected with it but never done it myself, that said i find it hard to believe that it would dry faster (oil is oil). I would say do one with each oil and see how it goes but the color may be slightly different, so it is better to use the same for that. The end result will be of the same quality.

About the sticky part of oil, i remembered an article i once checked:
http://www.wkfinetools.com/tRestore/finish-wood/kramer1/kramerImprov.asp
Like in the article i use real boiled oil and is probably why i never got any trouble with it. The part that made this article memorable to me to this day is "Our ancestors figured out that when you keep things compatible it all works together – and works well. Wood stuff on wood works!"