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Do you have key on power at the red power supply wire at the injector?Are you also lacking injector pulse?Dose anything change when you disconnect the SPOUT connector?
Did you try disconnecting the SPOUT connector and see if your spark returns?
The SPOUT connector is the connector that you remove when you need to set base timing. It should be the two wire connector taped to the harness at the ignition module.
They are actually both pink with a bus connector you remove. There is no fuse .
Yes tat is it and Did you not say you had changed the ignition module?
That is the connector , I asked about the module because it dose not look like a new one. If your sure it is and its okay then we are going to need to do some testing. Are you able to do that if I post the steps?
Okay, let try my test steps, they are much more comprehensive then the Chilton steps. See the link below . Let run these steps and see if this will help you get this resolved.https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104923897/No%20spark%20Apr%2017.pdf See the systems wiring diagram in this link for testing reference as well.https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104923897/Ignition%20system%20Apr%2017.pdf
Did you run the steps I sent you.?
Did you check the pip signal out of the distributor?
Your looking for a square wave signal , did you get one from it?
I think you have a wiring issue, where are you getting these high ohm reading , from where to where are you taking the reading?
You need to ohm then from the distributor to the PCM as well as from the module to the PCM with both unplugged.
The shield wire is just a ground shield and should not cause a lack of spark. Are these new parts you are replacing ? Something is not right here for sure. If the PCM, distributor , ignition module and coil are okay you should have good spark.
Did the truck that the PCM came out of start and run?
Well at this point I am out of ideas, this type of problem in most cases caused the either the distributor pick up or a failed module.
Loks like you hit them all, you did also verify you have power to the ignition module and the distributor on the red/green wire correct ?
Well I am out of ideas at this point. If you would like I can open this up for you and perhaps someone else has something new to add.
The resistance from Pos to Negative on the coil with it unhooked should be .8 to 1.6 ohms. Your reading look to low.The reading from the center tower on the coil to the Pos side should be 77,00 to 10,000 ohms.
Why dont you try the new coil on another truck and see if it will run before you consider replacing it.
Im here tomorrow if need be.