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Are you referring to the white/light blue wire going to the coil assembly?
The white/light blue wire should have around 12v with key in on position. This wire gets power from the 15 amp fuse in location 38 of fuse box under the hood. Make sure fuse is not blown, if good remove/reinsert a few times to make sure it has a good connection. If everything is good up to this point verify the fuse has voltage with key on. If fuse has voltage but not wire at coil this means wire is damaged somewhere between coil and fuse. You will need to follow wire to find damage or run a new wire. Here is a wiring diagram to help with testing, let me know if there is anything else I can do. Thanks.
Did you replace the ICM/coil assembly?
I'd check again to see if you are getting spark, if not then I'd recommend replacing it. The fuse would pretty much only blow if it is failing or wiring is shorting out and if wiring was shorting it would probably blow every time you turned key on. Let me know how it goes or if you have more questions, thanks.
Sounds good, I'll talk to you then. Thanks.
If fuse keeps blowing that means wiring is shorted so you will need to replace wire that goes between coil/ICM and fuse.
Then there is another short. Disconnect coil to make sure fuse still blows if so find the other short or replace the wire.
Can you take a picture? Does fuse blow when coil is unplugged?
Do you have spark?
Let me know when you get a chance to test for spark.
See if it runs on starting fluid, if so do a fuel pressure test. Let me know, thanks.
Ya, it is starting to sound like your timing chain jumped if it won't start on starting fluid. If compression is low then that would be the issue.
You can do it with engine in vehicle.
No, they should be fine but there is a small chance of damage.