Ford Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi Im David, what do you mean when you broke sender? trying to remove it?
and you were replacing it because the gauge didnt work?
and when you jump the connector the gauge pegs, which is ok. pull the sensor and put a heat source on it.
by the way, i dont set the charges for phone calls.... thats the site doing that
and the temp gauge is reading what?
the temp gauge is reading 180?
like pegged cold or under mid gauge a bit?
ok.gimme a few
pull the sensor out disconnector the sensor put an ohm meter on the sensors contacts. observe the resistance on the meter and heat the sensor up and the resistance should change drastically when heating it up or coolong it down
it should just be set to ohms.
so this one is reading correctly. as far as resistance.
did you maybe damage the connector? do a pull test on the wires, make sure they dont pull out.
is the coolant system full to where the sensor is immersed?
is the thermostat opening/closing?
something is very strange here
is the hose going to the tstat getting hot after the engine warms up. is it opening and closing at the right temps.ect.....
its gotta be a wiring issue. or a fuse
im looking at a few wiring diagrams now.
heres 2 prints with the sensor on them
because you are going to a direct ground
its a thermistor. so yes a variable resisitor.... ohm each wire to ground.....
ok. hang on a sec
ok you're reading through the cluster on the red. any way you can disconnect the cluster? then read the red to ground? or did you do that already(disconnect the cluster)
that'll work too
should be connector C138
The connector on the print is labeled c138. thats not important because its probably not labeled on the connector. its just for identification purposes.
the easiest way to do this is to go inside the truck and remove the instrument cluster and remove the connectors for it so you can do a continuity check from the cluster connector to the temp sensor wiring.
when you read the 62.5 ohms on the red wire, you didnt have the other end, wherever that wire runs to disconnected.
i know. yellow shouldnt read anything. it should be infinite or OL on the meter. so when you get the cluster out and disconnected, you will be looking for connector 250b(probably the middle one if there are 3 connectors, position 8 redwire with a white stripe. once you find it, do a continuity test from that wire to the temp sensor red wire.
the other one is red/white stripe (power)
hows it going?
well the reading is good. not making sense. you shouldnt have a problem. everything is checking good.
you have to have a ground on yellow. when you say nothing, do you mean the meter is reading OL or 1.
if you are putting the meter leads on the temperature sensor. connector not on it. just the leads clipped to the contacts inside the sensor, and the resistance isnt changing with the temperature of the engine. then its a bad sensor
and the resistance isnt changing? bad sensor. just make sure the leads arent touching each other when on the contacts. if they arent, they yes the sensor is bad
thats crazy as heck that all these sensors are bad.
it has to be the sensor....wtf
ok im going to look something up. give me a few
ok. if the sensor is new. and the old sensor worked before it was broken, the only thing it can be is a bad new sensor.