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James
James, Ford Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 3609
Experience:  Ford Senior Master Tech, Ford gas and diesel expert, ASE Certified
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2008 Escape. Liftgate actuator won't release. Checked the

Customer Question

2008 Escape. Liftgate actuator won't release.
JA: What are all the symptoms you've noticed (e.g. noises, leaks, flashing lights, error codes)?
Customer: Checked the actuator. Works on 12V drawing 1.5 amps. The actuator wires have 5.2 V across them. The liftgate Fuse has 5.8 volts across it.
JA: Have you checked all the fuses? Do you have a wiring diagram?
Customer: See prev
JA: Are you fixing your Escape yourself? What have you tried so far?
Customer: removed the actuator and verified it operates at 12V x 1.5 Amps
JA: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?
Customer: No
Submitted: 7 months ago.
Category: Ford
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
All the other locks work fine.
Expert:  James replied 7 months ago.

If I understand correctly the actuator will work if you apply 12v?

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
I tested it across 12V P/supply and it took 1.5A and worked fine
Expert:  James replied 7 months ago.

Are you testing each side of the fuse to ground or are you testing the voltage drop across the fuse?

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
voltage drop across the carrier with the fuse removed. Fuse to ground is 12V
Expert:  James replied 7 months ago.

OK thank you so to the actuator you are getting 5.6volts but 12volts coming off of the fuse?

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
exactly. If I click the remote "lock" and "unlock" buttons I get 20 to 30 mA change to the 5.2 volts (not 5.6 volts - 5.2 volts at the actuator, 5.8 volts at the fuse)
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
More info: This is Fuse 17 in the central console on the passenger side. Bottom contact: 12V. Top Contact: 5.8 volts instantaneous dropping exponentially to zero. (Indicates Capacitor discharging through my meter)
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
This is with the fuse removed, of course
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Hello .......
Expert:  James replied 7 months ago.
Actually the voltage drop means the fuse is blown. The fuse should have exact same voltage on both sides. If the voltage changes by .3volts the fuse needs to be replaced.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
The fuse is NOT BLOWN. The voltage drop is between the fuse and the actuator.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
I'm thinking it's the Smart Junction Box at fault
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
All the other locks work fine, like I already said
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
With the fuse installed, the voltage is 5.8V to ground at the fuse terminals
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
But with the fuse removed, one terminal is 12V and the other is 5.8 instantaneous, falling to zero
Expert:  James replied 7 months ago.
That part is normal. With the fuse removed only the one terminal will have 12volts
Expert:  James replied 7 months ago.
The fuse is used to transfer 12v from one terminal to the next terminal
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
I know what a fuse is: I'm an electronics technician
Expert:  James replied 7 months ago.
Ok I have no idea who you are or what your experience is. I'm not trying to insult you by any means. If you have 12v after the fuse then the wire to the actuator has a break. The breaks are usually in the rubber grommet between door and body of vehicle.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
No: My problem is that there is only 5.8 volts at the fuse. Not 12Volts at the fuse. That's why I suspect the Smart Junction Box. But, before I spend $350 on one, I would like confirmation, is all.
Expert:  James replied 7 months ago.

The 5.8 at the fuse and actuator is with the fuse installed correct? If the fuse is installed when you get 5.2v at the actuator then you have a broken wire or a wire with high internal resistance.

Expert:  James replied 7 months ago.

Hello, were you able to find the broken wire?