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Kenny Z.
Kenny Z., Ford Senior Master Tech
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 5212
Experience:  Auto Trans, Drivability and Electrical Specialist
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My dads 1993 ford ranger 2.3L 2wd automatic truck died while

Customer Question

hello. So my dads 1993 ford ranger 2.3L 2wd automatic truck died while he was driving it about a month ago.I found 4-6 teeth missing off the timing belt.I went ahead and changed the timing belt and while i had everything apart i replaced the crank position sensor as it was damaged probably by the teeth that where jammed in there from the belt.After the job was completed it still would not start :-( So i tested for spark and is present.I checked for fuel pressure at the shrader valve on the fuel rail and it has 50 lbs to the rail. I replaced fuel pressure regulator with no avail. Then i checked for pulse on each injector and sure enough theres power going to them all.I just replaced all 4 injectors and still will not start,its close and wants to start but just wont.The check engine light comes on when you put the key on the on position so i know the computer should be good,also comes back on after i stop craking the motor over as well.I removed the fuel filter and its excellent with no resistance when i blow in it. Also,when i spray gas in the throttle body the truck will start and run till the fuel runs out. I cant figure out for the life of me what could be the problem and i have been a mechanic for 25 years!!! Very frustrating indeed as my pops has been out of his truck for a month now. I even had fuel pressure when i took the filter off and cranked the motor over fuel comes out nice and strong out of the line!!! The enertia switch is not activated cause i checked that too!! Need some help with this one!! Someone who has knowledge of this 1993 ford ranger!! Thank you
Submitted: 2 months ago.
Category: Ford
Expert:  Mike V. replied 2 months ago.

Hi there,

It's my understanding that this truck uses the cam position sensor for injector pulse. Since it will run and you have good fuel pressure to the rail, and it will run off carb cleaner, then it seems there is a problem with the cam sensor signal to the pcm. This could be a failed sensor or a sensor that is out of time. This model uses a syncro tool to adjust the sensor. It could be that it's out of sync and causing the problem.

Hate to say that I am not 100% sure if this is the problem, but changing the belt may change the position of the cam sensor enough to be preventing the injector pulse.

Give it a try and let me know. If it doesn't resolve the problem, then let me know and I will open it back up for the other experts.

If it does, please throw me a positive rating. If not, no rating so I can open it up and the expert that can help does get paid.


Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Hi Mike.But theres power going to the injectors,i used a noid light tester and sure enough when cranking the motor over the light blinks as it should when receiving power, on all 4 injector connectors theres power going to them.So i know the injectors are getting power to them i imagine.Do you still think its the cam sensor?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 2 months ago.


I misunderstood and thought there wasn't injector pulse.

Since it will run off the starting fluid it seemed like no pulse.

Let me open it back up for the other experts and see what they think.

Please don't reply or rate because I want to see you get the help on this and they won't see it if you reply.

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

Hi Im David......vehicle was running fine, had a good history prior to the belt jumping time?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
excellent as a matter of fact..not 1 issue. it ran great with only 150000 on it not one problem for year and a half since i bought t for my pops
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

OK, Lets do a compression test first my friend

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

actually, before that, loosen the distributor and turn it a bit either way, then try starting.

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

did you make sure the rotor was point to #1 at tdc?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
honestly,the motor ran fine with plenty of power and doesnt burn any oil so im not worried it has low compression.
What i need is after thoroughly reading my initial statement i need someone whoes extremely knowledgeable with older fords like this one.Also,it doesnt have a distributor,it has 2 coil packs and 8 spark plugs,2 per cylinder . Need a Ford tech with knowledge of these engines and trucks.Thanks
Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

sorry for the error, i got stuck in the 80's for a minute

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

and since it was running great before the timing belt issue and being that its not an interference engine then you're probably right on not worrying about the compression test. i will opt out and let someone else take over also.

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

I gotta jump in one more time. did you make sure the crank shaft reluctor wheel didnt get damaged when the belt messd up?

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

if the sensor wheel is ok, just double check everything. tdc on compression stroke, maybe you were 180 out? alot of guys set the timing 10 btdc which is not correct. make sure the keyway on the cam straight down the crank key way straight up, then set tension. that pretty much all there is to it as you already know

Expert:  david craig replied 2 months ago.

Ill stick with you unless you dont want me to, thats fine we have a lot of knowledge on here and our ultimate goal is your satisfaction.. I gotta run for a few, but will be back on later.

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
its definately at tdc ,no doubt about it,ive been doing this since 1987 when i got into the auto industry. also it runs when i spray fuel into the throttle body so if it was out 180 it would probably not run for those few seconds till the gas burns out.but thanks anyway
Expert:  Kenny Z. replied 2 months ago.

Just my 2 cents, based on everything I read here, you have a crank sensor issue identifying #1 correctly for injector timing. Did you use this tool when installing the crank sensor?

  • Install the timing sensor onto the dowel pin and tighten the two longer bolts to 8-12 Nm (6-9 ft-lb).
  • Align the timing sensor as follows:
  • Rotate the crankshaft 45 degrees (1/8 turn) counterclockwise and install the crankshaft pulley and hub assembly. Tighten the bolt to specification.
  • Rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees (1/4 turn) clockwise so that the vane of the crankshaft pulley engages with the Timing Sensor Positioner T89P-6316-A. Tighten the two shorter sensor bolts to 2.3-3.5 Nm (21-31 in-lb).

  • Rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees (1/4 turn) counterclockwise and remove the sensor positioner.
  • Rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees (1/4 turn) clockwise and measure the outer vane to sensor air gap. The air gap must be 0.458 to 0.996 mm (0.018-0.039 inch).
  • Install the timing belt outer cover and the spark plugs.
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Hi Kenny.Yes i did use the sensor tool,it came with the new sensor.I followed the instructions on the Chilton manual on how to gap it and i think i got it within spec.I tried to get it as even on both sides of the reluctor wheel as possible. It wasnt as detailed as what you wrote above but i went with what it said.Are you sayin that if its off just a hair it will cause a no start? Its driving me crazy!!!
Expert:  Kenny Z. replied 2 months ago.

Its the only thing that makes any sense to me, I could be wrong. I mean it runs on external fuel, right? So compression and ignition good, Do you have any idea if it is getting fuel in the cylinders? Plugs getting wet or smell like fuel? If there's fuel pressure and pulsewidth and new injectors....

Expert:  Kenny Z. replied 2 months ago.

That's a tight spec on the air gap, I assume it must be important.

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
i never pulled a plug to see if its wet and i dont smell gas when i crank it over,but it wants to start,and it ran for a second or two a couple times.Does the crank sensor control fuel ? It just make no sense tht theres 50 lbs of fuel pressure at the rail,i have pulsewidth at all 4 connectors yet it wont start...i also read on a ford forum online typically if you can get a business card between the sensor and wheel should be in spec.
Expert:  Kenny Z. replied 2 months ago.

Its a dual function sensor, it has two sensors one hall effect which is used for cyl #1 position to time the injectors and the other sensor is the profile pickup used for spark and crankshaft speed for the PCM. That's why there is no cam sensor. The alignment procedure is for the hall effect sensor. I am not sure what the strategy is in the PCM if the hall effect is not timed correctly, whether it goes into some kind of limited strategy or not. I know when vehicles that have cam sensors out of time even by a degree or two the engine will start and stall repeatedly.

Expert:  Kenny Z. replied 2 months ago.

Hello again,

If you need further assistance please feel free to reply and we can continue. Otherwise please take a moment to rate my answer as you see fit. After rating, the thread is still available should you need further assistance. Experts are not compensated without a positive rating. Providing a rating does not close the question, you can reply or ask additional questions without incurring further charges.


Kenny Z