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Hello, are you saying the ignition key doesnt work properly and doesnt feel right when you turn the key, it leaves the vehicle running and discharges the battery?
Ok, on these older vans, the fuel pump relay was known for sticking and staying on, causing a drain. I would start by replacing both the eec power relay and fuel pump relay under the hood and see if the fuel pump stays powered up and draining the battery. Otherwise, the other thing to check would be the ignition switch on the steering column. They had issues with them overheating and melting the ignition switch connector and the switch seperating and causing issues.
The EEC Power relay is the Electronic Engine Control Relay. It powers the Engine control module aka PCM when you turn the key to on. This relay energizes the Fuel Pump relay when the key is turned to on and powers the PCM. So its a good idea to replace both relays when you have an issue with either one since they work together for the vehicle to run.
Do you need more help with this concern?
They are located under the hood at the right side fuse panel area. Not the best picture, the older vehicles have limited information.
No fuse panel, relay box, as you see in the attachment
Very good. If you need more help, let me know. If I was helpful, please leave a positive rating.
Hello, how did you make out with the repair?
Ok good so the fuel pump issue is resolved, thats good. So if the battery has a draw on it. You will need to use the meter to test for a parasitic draw. There is no easy way to do this. You have to disconnect fuses, one at a time when you show a draw until the draw drops off to a passable level. Once you know what fuse drops the circuit, then you can look at what is on the circuit to see what can be disconnected and again monitor the draw until it drops. Factory radios were a good draw. But with dual batteries and accessories, this might be tricky to localize. Here is a video that walks you through using the meter to test for a draw.