Ford Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hello I will help you with your question,
That is a huge draw (about 2 light bulbs worth).
You have a wiring diagram and can see the 50 amp IP fuse panel #13 fuse feeds those fuses that you listed and you pulled all 8 fuses but got no change in the draw?
So you would have to think there is a short from the 50 amp fuse to other circuits maybe at the back of the fuse block? It is set up in the corner and critters like to get in there and chew the wiring, can you use a mirror and a light or remove the box and see if you can spot any damage?
The other alternative is to pull the other fuses and puth them back in until the draw comes back.
As I say this is about 2 light bulbs worth, I use an infra red camera to look for sources of heat. With that much current flowing it does generate quite a bit so you might feel for warm parts.
Let me know what you find so I can help
Yes, the panel is in the back corner of the engine compartment and either remove the panel and pull it up the few inches the harness will allow or use a mirror to look under it for corrosion and damage with a good flashlight.
You can also try removing the alternator cable (careful not to touch anything with it while it is off) and see if the draw changes or remove the other fuses in the panel and see if there is any corrosion inside the panel or if the draw will drop. Somewhere there has to be a cross connection from the 50 amp circuit that runs inside to the fuse block and other components where the draw is.
If there is aftermarket components installed those are suspect, they may have tapped directly into the feed wire to those 8 fuses bypassing them.
Let me know what you find and how I can help
All you need to do is log back into the site and you should be able to see this thread and post to it.
We can even continue with followup questions on this thread after you rate my service.
I am here most of the time so just let me know how I can help
No need to reply til you have a chance to check it out.
Follow the tan/black wire out of the fuse block and if you can't find any damage you need to get a little destructive and cut the wire. Double check that the 50 amp fuse makes the draw go away (doors closed ignition off) and if it still does then cut the wire and see if the draw is still there. If it is the problem is internal to the fuse block. Leave yourself enough wire so they can be spliced back together when you have found the draw.
Your diagram is correct the only thing that fuse feeds is those 8 fuses through the tan/black wire.
The wire does run through C136 so you need check there first for corrosion
It is the bulkhead connectors under the fuse block, follow the tan/black wire to it and open the connector so you can look for corrosion.
Let me know how I can help
Please let me know what you find
I never use ohm when doing measurements in a vehicle. All the circuits are wired in parallel so unless you remove both ends of the wire you are testing you can't be sure of the result. Voltage drop testing is faster and more accurate the only drawback is you MUST have current flowing in the circuit for the readings to be accurate.
If cutting the wire dropped the draw does disconnecting the connector do the same thing? If it does you are inside and looking at the wiring from the bulkhead connector to the fuses. Somewhere you have to have a spot of corrosion or a cross connection. Keep double checking that you still have the draw present as you test, if you now find one of the fuses will drop the draw you are onto that circuit.
Let me know what I can do to help
That is odd you would have the draw after putting #29 back in and pulling it again. Did you have the other seven out at that time or were they installed?
A testlight is not a good indication of a drain, the amp meter gives you a better idea of what is going on. You can still have a 100 mA drawn and the light would be off.
29 runs the radio and cd changer if you had one. Try disconnecting the radio and see if you have the same results. Is this the factory radio?
You would pull the radio out and unplug it at the back
The radio face has a pair of holes at each end, you insert the radio removal tools (any parts store for about $5) and pull them towards the center of the radio and slide it out of the dash.
No, there is a constant power and an ignition power, the constant keeps the radio and the presets in memory then the ignition runs the radio. I know you said there was no aftermarket components installed but it is a favorite place to pick up power for aftermarket installers.
Let me know what you find. Getting consistent results will help you get to the bottom of this
Sounds like you found it then. finding a part to replace it with might be harder. Do you have a part number on it? Google that number if you do. I think you will find no new stock available but you might find a used on on ebay.
Please let me know how I can help
The GEM module is known to fail internally (Chime module). It does control other functions but if everything seems to be working properly it is the chime module that is not turning off cleanly still allowing current to flow.
Did you get the number off it?
OK, These are getting hard to find but if I can have the number off it I will see what I can do. The module will require setup after installation but it does not need to be done right away. A good independent shop should have the ability to do that and will charge between 1/2 - 1 hour labor to do so.
It is the F number that you need to find.
Looks like you are in luck they are all over ebay for $35 - $85. Pick a seller with great feedback and I would order from them. Amazon has no stock for sale.
If you can find one in a local yard for a reasonable price that is an option so if there is a problem with it you have a local contact.
Try car-part.com to see what is listed in your area and match the number exactly. You want "computer" "not engine" as the search term.
You can try it with it out, I think it is just a matter of setting it up with any options you have and that the truck will run with the new one plugged in but not configured. I would have to see what options are available when the tool is connected to know for sure.
The part number will be for a 1997, I believe that is your only option.
Intermittent wipers for one, I would have to see the list once the tool is connected to the truck to be sure.
You should be able to find something on Car-part.com then. Better than running all over the place asking.
Great, let me know what I can do to help
If you unplug the module the drain is gone?
You are testing with the doors closed?
Let me check the diagrams to see what else it could be, might just be the module you got has the same issue as your old one. Back in five minutes.
Do you have a remote keyfob?
Is the dome lamp and map light hot after you have the doors closed for a few minutes? Can you just pull the bulbs out of those?
The GEM only runs a couple of things, map light, dome light and if you have remote it has a connection to that module.
Some of them did, I thought with the 2.3 yours would be the base unit and did not have the remote anti theft module so it should not be connected to the module you replaced.
Do the lights go out after a short time when you exit the vehicle or do they go out as soon as the door is closed?
Map light would be center top of the roof if you have one.
Do you have a connector view of the module? I want to be sure we are looking at the same diagrams.
Click here for diagram
Compare that to your module connector and let me know if it matches
If that matches you might try unplugging the wiper switch and see if that affects the draw. It is a huge drain though, more like a lightbulb than a corroded switch connection.
You have power locks?
Do the inside lights fade out or turn right off when you shut the door?
Can you pull the wiper switch connector if it still has too much drain after 5 minutes with the key out and the door closed?
You are disconnecting the negative cable then installing the ampmeter and letting it sit? It should be as quiet as it gets after 5 minutes for this computer.
The wiper switch is part of the multifunction switch on the steering column where the turn switch is. The rectangular connector.
The other cabin lights operate normally
To access the multi switch pull the screws out of the bottom of the steering column shroud and squeeze the sides so the bottom comes off. You can unplug the retangular wiper switch connector then check the draw again.
You should have a cabin light on both the passenger and the driver's side and the dome light that you can control from the dash switch and it should come on when you open the door and off with the door closed if you have the switch on the light set to the door position.
The light in the center is the dome light, can you pull the bulb out of that or unplug it?
The last place will be the lighting relay, I did think you had the base model without all the add ons, so we should be down to the last items that might be causing the drain.
Beyond that the module's job is to control the lights and wipers so unplugging the wiper motor would take everything out of the circuit and only leave the module and the wiring from the module to the components.
Let me know if you need help with locations or how to remove them from the circuit.
The module is what you replaced, the light is your dome light, the wiper motor is under the hood on the firewall, I will post directions to that and the lighting relay in a few minutes.
One at a time watching the drain pull the wiper relays from the box under the hood then get to the lighting relay in the center dash and pull that and if you see a RAP relay next to it pull that. Let m eknow if you see a change in the draw.
Click here for locations
Let me know what happens
OK, if you have disconnected everything the module feeds then either there is a wiring cross connection between the module and the components or the module is still the issue. Unplugging it drops the draw to near 0 at once?
That would leave looking for corrosion in any connectors between the module and what it controls, you do not have a dead short and it is the module's job to shut off when you turn the key off and that is not happening. You have a current leak not a dead short.
Let me know when you get back to this
There should not be any drain from the door switches, you can check them but they are just ground inputs to the module not powered.
use your meter to see if they open and close when you probe from the module connector. Simple resistance check with the module disconnected.
You say the dome light does not work?
I would be checking why that is, the module has direct control over the power to that light.
What happens when you have the module plugged in but you remove the lighting relay? Any change?
If there is no change then no reason to go chasing the dome lamp, leave that for later.
Does the connector view I posted above match what you are seeing at the module?
I agree that the "new" module seems to have the same problem. It is the module's job to turn off when it senses that the key is off and removed from the ignition with the doors closed and it is not doing that.
It is so common for these to fail and sometimes you can get a good one used but it seems this is not the case here. You can try car-part.com to see if there are any local to you, the search would be for computer not engine.
I am sorry it has been such an ordeal but I do believe the problem is in the module.
The washer relay is in relay box #2, click here for diagram and location
OK, please let me know if there is some way I can help
No problem on time, I would be interested in knowing what you find. You can always post back to this question even after rating.
Please let me know how I can help you with this
I will watch for your post.