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Hello and thank you for your question,When you checked the power to the Driver module did you make sure the fuse F68 and F 66 in the under hood panel where not blown and had poser to them. These two fuse power the Fuel pump relay and send power to the driver module on the violet/green wire which is pin #1 at the driver module. Is this the wire your not getting power on?
Okay do you have power at the fuel pump relay on pins #2 and #3 with the key on?
Yes that is the power supply wire out of the fuel pump relay do you have power at the relay on the pins I mentioned.
Okay, the way the relay work is the BCM ( Body computer ) grounds the relay on the pin #2 and sends power out of it to the fuel pump through the driver module on the violet /green wire, do you get power to the driver if you ground the pin #2. Take another look at the wiring diagram in the link below.https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104923897/Driver%20Diag%20Nov%205.pdf
The fuel pump relay which controls the fuel pump just as shown in the wiring diagram I sent you.
Pin #2 is the relay ground supplied by the BCM, if the BCM is not grounding the relay you will not have power out of it to the driver. Have you scanned the system to see if there are any fault codes setting?
If you look at the wiring diagram I sent you for the relay you will see the power wire at the relay are pins #1 and #, pin #5 (violet/green) is power out , pin #2 is the ground signal to the relay from the BCM and should not be hot. Once again, have you scanned the Computer and the BCM to see if there are any fault codes setting.
That what we have been doing, if you have power on the pins #1 and #, pin #5 and a good ground on pint #2 then the relay should supply power out on pin #5.Once again, have you scanned the computer system to see if there are any fault codes setting?
As shown in the diagram pins #1 and pin #3 are power . Are you sure you checking the right relay, it should match the pin in the wiring diagram . Something is getting lost in translation here.Are you going to answer my other question, have you scanned the computer system to see if there are any fault codes setting?
Its in the under hood fuse panel, I have marked it for you.https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104923897/FP%20location%20Nov%204.pdf
With the key on and the relay removed, you should have power on pins #1 and # ***** which get there power from the two fuses shown in the wiring diagram. There should only be power on #5 with the relay installed and the engine craning and or running.
Thats not possible, are you sure you checking the right pins, there marked on the relay as well as the diagram I sent you.
Look at the wiring diagram which shows you the two power wires and then look at the relay diagram I sent you which will show you which pins they are in the socket.
Thats not possible , the power wires to the connector are #1 and #3 just as shown in the diagrams. Pin to is the ground from the BCM and Pin #5 is power out to the driver module just as shown in both diagrams I have sent you.
Are you sure you not looking at them in the opposite position? With the relay removed there is no way the other pins can have power.
Well Im not sure why because every 2011 is the same as the diagram and Im not sure why your would not match the factory diagrams. At this point I can open the question back up for you in hopes some else may have ran across a backwards set up that does not match the factory wiring.
Which yellow wire are you referring to? Looking at the factory wiring diagram there are no solid yellow wires.
If you look at the wiring diagram you will see the yellow/gray wire out of the drive module is the power feed to the fuel pump from the driver module and if it runs with adding power to it then that means the pump is okay and you are not getting a signal out of the driver module.
The fuel pump is controlled by the FP relay powering the Driver module and the PCM (computer) controlling the pressure with a duty cycle from it. Are you sure the driver module is not just bad?
Well I'm out of ideas from here, your pumps runs with added power so its okay and the driver is new so you are back to either a bad PCM or the signal from it to the relay .
The only way to test it is to either send it out to a builder for testing or swap it with a a known good unit. That being said, anytime you replace it, programming is required.