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Lou P.
Lou P., ASE Certified Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 3723
Experience:  Have been working on Ford GM and Chrysler for 15+ years and ASE master certified.
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I replaced all 4 rotors, brake pads and front calipers on a

Customer Question

I replaced all 4 rotors, brake pads and front calipers on a 2011 ford fusion sport and after bleeding the braking system, I have no brakes. The pedal goes all the way to the floor. What can be causing this problem? Please help!
Submitted: 1 year ago via CarComplaints.com.
Category: Ford
Expert:  Eric replied 1 year ago.
HI,
Ok, the most common issue is installing the new calipers on the wrong sides - they fit either side but are actually side specific for correct bleeder screw replacement.
Look at the calipers you installed. Are the bleeder screws below or above the brake hose to caliper connection?
If they are below, then you have them on the wrong side. When the bleeders are below the connection, there is always an air bubble at top caliper that will never bleed out. Swap sides with the calipers and bleed them and you are good to go.
Please remember to rate service using the rating page so that I may receive credit. Thanks
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
the calipers are on correctly so what do I do now
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
are you still there
Expert:  Eric replied 1 year ago.
HI,
Ok, did the master cylinder go dry during the brake job
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
still waiting
Expert:  Eric replied 1 year ago.
HI,
I asked if the master cylinder had run dry during the brake job and have not received a reply yet.
Expert:  Eric replied 1 year ago.
HI,
Ok, I will go with the assumption that it did. In that case it is likely that air got into the ABS hydraulic unit. This requires bleeding with a scan tool, but there is a work around that is successful about 75% of the time.
You will need all 4 wheels off the ground. Crank engine and put in drive. Accelerate till it reads about 20mph and then repeatedly slam on the brakes. Repeat about 10 times. This should activate the motors and solenoids in the ABS hydraulic unit to bleed it. Now put in park and with engine idling, rebleed each wheel. Also apply the parking brake several times during the bleeding process.
Now test the pedal. If still no pedal, then it likely needs to be computer bled. but before having done, make sure that the pads are not cocked at an angle, calipers are not cocked at angle and that the hoses are not twisted or looped.
If all ok, then it will require computer bleeding.
Please remember to rate service using the rating page so that I may receive credit. Thanks
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
NO IT HADNT GONE DRY AND I THOUGHT THAT YOU WERE GOING TO CALL AS I REQUESTED A PHONE CALL
Expert:  Eric replied 1 year ago.
HI,
Sorry, I dont see where a phone call was requested, or I would have opted out at that point. I am not set up for that at this time. I will opt out at this point and open it for another expert to help and call you
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK
Expert:  Lou P. replied 1 year ago.
Hello my name is ***** ***** i will do my best to help you , i strive for EXCELLENT service and nothing more. Here is what we use in the shop. The last line is what is the important one. A scan tool must be used for bleeding of the hydraulic unit. Here are all the steps.
1. Clean all the dirt from around the brake fluid reservoir cap and remove the cap. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with clean brake fluid.
2. Install the bleeder adapter to the brake master cylinder reservoir and attach the bleeder tank hose to the fitting on the adapter.
3. Open the valve on the bleeder tank. Apply 30-50 PSI to the brake system.
4. Remove the RH rear bleeder cap. Attach a rubber drain tube to the bleeder screw and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean, specified brake fluid. Loosen the bleeder screw leave open until clear, bubble-free brake fluid flows, then tighten the RH rear bleeder screw.
5. Press and release the parking brake 5 times. Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
6. Tighten the RH rear bleeder screw. Remove the rubber hose and install the bleeder screw cap.
7. Repeat Steps 4 through 6 for the LH rear brake caliper.
8. Remove the RH front bleeder cap. Attach a rubber drain tube to the bleeder screw and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with brake fluid.
9. Loosen the RH front bleeder screw. Leave open until clear, bubble-free brake fluid flows, then tighten the bleeder screw.
10. Repeat Steps 8 through 10 for the LH front brake caliper.
11. Close the bleeder tank valve and release the pressure. Remove the tank hose from the adapter and remove the adapter. Fill the reservoir with clean, specified brake fluid and install the reservoir cap.
12. Connect the scan tool and follow the ABS HCU Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) bleeding instructions. Repeat the Pressure Bleeding procedure to bleed the system.
So again a scan tool is what is needed to bleed the brakes. I will also submit a phone offer if you need clearer description of the procedure but this is pretty
Cut and dry. If you have nothing but clear fluid coming out then the hydraulic unit needs to have the automated bleed performed with a scan tool. Hope this information helps Please take a second and click the box and rate my service GOOD OR EXCELLENT SERVICE if you feel I have been helpful and please request me in the future. If you feel I have not been helpful please DO NOT RATE BAD OR POOR AND WASTE YOUR MONEY , I will opt out to see if another expert can provide more or better assistance so you're not wasting your money!!. Thanks for choosing just answer. Lou. also , if you feel i deserve one , BONUSES are GREATLY APPRECIATED ! ūüėČ Keep in mind then when you rate it does not end our conversation. you can still return here to me for follow up information if needed, Lou.

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