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2003 Ford Explorer XLT, Automatic, Flex Fuel, won't start. Battery is good, no corrosion on terminals. When I turn the key all of the electrical systems work but the starter does not engage at all, no clicking, no thud.
I also checked all of the fuses in the engine compartment. I looked at the fuses in the passenger compartment but from the manual I don't see which ones might be applicable,
4.0L Flex Fuel SOHC 6cyl
In my manual the fuse for Starter relay and ignition relay is #12, 50A and I check ed it.
The starter relay is #56 and ignition relay is #58. Other than visual inspection how can I check them?
Thanks for the diagram. My manual says there is a starter relay 56 and an ignition relay #58 but your diagram only has the starter relay.
Should I check both 56 and 58?
I checked them all and they all felt like they clicked when the key was turned.
I was out.
I assume the problem you had was not cranking.
If the starter relay did click, then the relay must be bad.
I put my finger on each relay while the key was turned and it felt to me as if they all clicked when the key was turned.
I swapped relay 56 (starter) and relay 55 (blower motor) and there was no difference.
I pulled the Starter Relay and none of the contacts were hot with the key off. I put 12V across the 2 smaller contacts, I heard the click, and there was continuity across the larger contacts. I had my son turn the key and there was 12 volts at one of the large receptacles (#85 in the diagram that you sent). So this would leave me to believe that the DTR sensor and the Ignition switch are ok since the are in series with the Starter Relay on that line.
It seems that it would be Fuse 12 or a wire in that circuit if I am not getting any voltage at the starter relay small contact points. I will see if I have 12V at the Fuse 12 location.
What is S115 on the diagram, between Fues 12 and Starter Relay?
I was editing my reply when you were answering so I could not save the changes.
I went back and double-checked all the contacts at the relay, one is hot all the time and 1 is hot when the key is turned.
I pulled fuse 12 and on side is hot and the other is not.
From this I assume you can test the fuse while it is in place, I'm not sure how to do that but I will try.
I don't see where to make contact with the multi-meter to test the voltage across the fuse. I checked it for continuity and that passed.
Yes, I removed the fuse and checked with the ohmmeter and yes, one of the prongs in the battery junction box was hot and the other was not.
I don't suppose you have a diagram for that location anywhere?
Did you get my message about the PATS system?
The security system indicator light flashes once every 2 seconds when the key is off or out. When I turn the key it flashes rapidly. I have read some information that this indicates some fault or activation of the PATS system so I called the dealer service department and they said that if this is the case you should still be able to crank the engine, it just won't start.
I don't know whether it was doing that from the beginning of the starting problem or not, I just keep looking for possible explanations.
Just for fun I check the continuity from the YEL/LT BLU wire at the starter motor to the terminal in the battery junction box starter relay receptacle, it passed.
I would be happy to check the splice but really have no idea where to look for it. I don't mind running a new wire but I don't know where/how to attach it to the battery junction box.