Ford Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi, I’m Chris. Welcome and thanks for asking your question!
1) This is not an answer nor a direct info request to your concern.2) First off I am checking to see if you have already resolved your concern.3) If you do still need help, if there is anything more you think would help me answer your question, please reply with that info. I am sorry you have had to wait so long for the first contact. Sometimes this happens when the question you ask is not detailed enough or its just hard to address online. Many have viewed your post, but have decided to pass. I will do my best to help you. I have access to many repair sites, so at the least I can provide something to address at least part of your concern if it is not something I can address from memory and experience. I work on this site only in the evening hours 7 days a week. I am online normally from 3-midnight. At the latest you should get a response from me prior to 9pm TN time.Thanks for using our site, we will do all we can to earn your business, again sorry we did not get to you sooner. Chris>>
Thank you for responding. I did get a couple of things figured out such as the position of the camshaft position synchronizer when placing it into the block during the #1 cylinder compression stroke. However, I am at a point where I have the test harness on and trying to get a reading from 0 volts or to 12 volts and getting no reading at all. The wires from the truck's harness are from left to right: red, blue/orange, and black/white. The actual test harness wires are from left to right: red, white, and black. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I figured it out. I took the CMP out of the block and tested it along with the old one by simply turning them outside of the engine. Both worked fine along with the harness. However, the new Dorman model got a stronger signal than the older and more pricey Bosch model. Exactly 34 mm past TDC on the #1 cylinder compression stroke I worked the CMP back and forth with a voltage reading of .07 and 11.69 to where I got it exactly where it switches between the lower and the upper reading. I couldn't get the voltmeter to go any lower than .07, but it was very apparent to where it would make the switch to almost 12 volts. If only I had gone on to Arizona Automotive Institute instead of becoming a middle school teacher.
Scott T. Hunter
Glad you got it figured out.
I just buttoned everything up for the evening. Got the intake, new injectors, fuel rail, and throttle body put on along with all cleaned connections, and vacuum hoses. I checked my CMP alignment four times and it should be exactly on the money.