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Ron
Ron, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Ford
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Experience:  23 years with Ford specializing in drivability and electrical and AC. Ford certs and ASE Certs
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Ford Ranger XLT extended cab: I am installing a new long block

Customer Question

I am installing a new long block 4.0 (VIN X) into my 1994 Ford Ranger. This particular model and year has a Hall Effect camshaft position synchronizer. I purchased a new one for installation. I did my research and found a great deal of information concerning this part and its proper installation. However, some parts are confusing. The motor now is at 26 degrees (34 mm) past TDC for the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder. I have the camshaft position synchronizer with the trailing edge set to the far left mark on the window and am ready to place it along with the oil pump drive shaft at a 90 degree angle into its hole. Which direction should the black electrical connector be facing; the driver’s side or passenger side? I do realize that as the part goes in it will turn clockwise, but I want to make sure it is going in properly. Also, there is no possible way it can completely be set at a 90 degree angle since with either direction the connector hits the edge of one of the heads prior to completely seating.
I also rounded up a t94t-50-b testing harness. The colored wiring is different than that of the truck’s connector; however, it can only go on one of two ways and there is a red and black side on both the connector and test harness that make it easier to line up. What I really need to know is when it is all said and done and after I have found the exact point when voltage goes from 12 to 0 should the crescent be lined up with the trailing edge on the small, far left mark or on the center mark? Also, I have read that final adjustment has to be made in a counterclockwise fashion. Is this absolutely true? The following links has been my best source so far:
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Fixxxer22/2009-11-01_213829_4.0_cmp.pdf
http://www.justanswer.com/mazda/4be2f-mazda-b4000-se-time-camshaft-position-sensor.html
Thank you for your help. Any detailed pictures would be great. I would like to get this done correct the first time and proceed to putting the intake and valve covers on.

Thank you, XXXXX
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Ford
Expert:  Chris (aka- Moose) replied 1 year ago.

Hi, I’m Chris. Welcome and thanks for asking your question!

 

1) This is not an answer nor a direct info request to your concern.
2) First off I am checking to see if you have already resolved your concern.

3) If you do still need help, if there is anything more you think would help me answer your question, please reply with that info.



I am sorry you have had to wait so long for the first contact. Sometimes this happens when the question you ask is not detailed enough or its just hard to address online. Many have viewed your post, but have decided to pass. I will do my best to help you. I have access to many repair sites, so at the least I can provide something to address at least part of your concern if it is not something I can address from memory and experience.



I work on this site only in the evening hours 7 days a week. I am online normally from 3-midnight. At the latest you should get a response from me prior to 9pm TN time.

Thanks for using our site, we will do all we can to earn your business, again sorry we did not get to you sooner.



Chris

>

>

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hello Chris,


 


Thank you for responding. I did get a couple of things figured out such as the position of the camshaft position synchronizer when placing it into the block during the #1 cylinder compression stroke. However, I am at a point where I have the test harness on and trying to get a reading from 0 volts or to 12 volts and getting no reading at all. The wires from the truck's harness are from left to right: red, blue/orange, and black/white. The actual test harness wires are from left to right: red, white, and black. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

I figured it out. I took the CMP out of the block and tested it along with the old one by simply turning them outside of the engine. Both worked fine along with the harness. However, the new Dorman model got a stronger signal than the older and more pricey Bosch model. Exactly 34 mm past TDC on the #1 cylinder compression stroke I worked the CMP back and forth with a voltage reading of .07 and 11.69 to where I got it exactly where it switches between the lower and the upper reading. I couldn't get the voltmeter to go any lower than .07, but it was very apparent to where it would make the switch to almost 12 volts. If only I had gone on to Arizona Automotive Institute instead of becoming a middle school teacher.


 


Scott T. Hunter

Expert:  Chris (aka- Moose) replied 1 year ago.

Glad you got it figured out.

 

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

I just buttoned everything up for the evening. Got the intake, new injectors, fuel rail, and throttle body put on along with all cleaned connections, and vacuum hoses. I checked my CMP alignment four times and it should be exactly on the money.


 


Thank you,


 


Scott T. Hunter

Expert:  Chris (aka- Moose) replied 1 year ago.
Great

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Ron
Ron
Ford Mechanic
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23 years with Ford specializing in drivability and electrical and AC. Ford certs and ASE Certs