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Hello, this is not likely a fuel pump issue. Before parts are just slapped on, the engine codes need to be checked. More than likely, there is an issue with the under valve cover wiring harnesses. Let me know about the codes. Thanks
i cant get any codes to read comes up 124 codes found I cant reset the codes,,and i have allready pulled valve covers and checked harness conections,,why cant any comp read my codes,,or reset my codes,,just says 124 codes found on any comp,,but cant read them
Most generic code readers won't read the diesel computer since it is seperate from the truck computer. How long has it been since the oil was changed?
DON,T KNOW JUST BOUGHT THE TRUCK IN THIS CONDITION,,LOOKS CLEAN,,WHEN I SHUT THE TRUCK OFF CHECK ENGINE LIGHT GOES OFF AND RUNS BETTER ,,BUT STARTS DOING IT WHEN TRUCK RUNS A LITTLE WHILE AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES BACK ON,,S
When it runs bad, is there any smoke from the exhaust? Is there any odd engine noise when it runs bad?
JUST WHEN IT GETS TOO ABOUT 2000 RPM THEN IT FLUTTERS SMOKES ,,CLEAS IT OUT LIKE ITS HESITANT,,OR STARVING FOR FUEL THEN REVS FLUTTERY
NO ODD ENGINE NOISE
What color is the smoke?
ok i changed the oil,,now no smoke at all but smoke was white,,when the truck is cold its starts good,,runs good,,but as soon as it gets up to operating temp,,check engine lightcomes on and looses power,,like it is starving for fuel then,,if you shut it off,, the check engine light goes off ,,runs pretty good, then when you take off,,I dont get more than two miles down the road ,and its starts,over again
I changed the oil in the high pressure oil pump..I used a turkey baster ,to suck it out,,and filled it back up..
hello ,,is this working,,
There are two things that come to mind. I have seen the holes in the fuel filter housing get clogged. You would need to disassemble the filter bowl to check. This would also include replacing the fuel pressure regulator assembly. And as you already indicated, the fuel pump. The oil in the high pressure pump housing is continually changed by the engine oil.
ok..what holes would you be refferring too,,in the filter housing..I didnt know about the high pressure oil pump,,lol I changed my oil noticed it didnt drain ,,so i changed it the only way i saw possible,,so my fuel pump could get weak rather than just quit,,
Yes, the spring and valves in the pump can get weak. The holes where the fuel flows into the filter bowl, there are no diagrams in the manual for this procedure. But in the fuel pressure regulator, I have come across the seal swelling up and sticking.
and would you first try the fuel bowl cleaning before ,,changing the fuel pump,,man that fuel pump is expensive ,,245.00,,i just replaced those sensors changed oil ,,changed fuel filter ,,and dropped tank and sending unit,,or would you bite the bullet and just do it ..and would that cause my check engine light to come on
I would start with removing and cleaning the fuel bowl assembly. If the bowl has no build up, then go ahead and change the pump. If you don't mind ordering the fuel pump online, www.rockauto.com has the pump for less the $85.
it makes sense what your saying ,because when i changed the fuel filter,,I filled the bowl with atf,,and the truck ran great till..it ran it out,,then now if i leave the truck idling for a long time and go hit the throttle it ,,runs great,,till it seems like what your saying ,,the rgine drains the fuel bowl faster than it can fill up..thanks for the pump info..is there a complete fuel bowl rebuld kit anywere
man your getting an excellent service rating,,I believe you know your shit,,lol,,I,m a farm tractor diesel mechanic,,but this electronic injector stuff goes over my head,,lol
No kit, but the dealer can give you an exploded parts view of the bowl, also international truck dealers can get this as well.
ok .thanks your getting paid,,