Ford Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
My name is XXXXX XXXXX I will try and assist you.
Which engine do you have? Auto or manual transmission?
Then you say it won't even try, does it crank like the starter is turning or you turn the key and it is like nothing is there?
Do you have a anti-theft light on the dash?
3.0V6 Automatic When I turn the key nothing is there Yes there is an anti theft light
Is the light flashing or is it solid?
Have you tried using the spare key?
Solid theft light Don't have a spare key
I'm sorry you are going through this. I have some ok news and bad news here.
Your vehicle had the anti-theft mechanism triggered on it. I will list some instructions for you to try. Give them a shot and if they don't work, then the bad news is you will have to have a Locksmith with a IDS tool come out and reset your key or your vehicle taken to Ford and have your PALS system rest with their WDS tool.
This happened when you removed your battery from your vehicle. So first, remove both cables from the battery and touch them together to discharge the remaining power in the vehicle. Wait 20 minutes and reconnect them. Then turn the key on and wait approx 10-45 seconds. (I would wait 45 seconds) then turn the key off and then back on. Wait about 10 seconds and attempt to start the car. If the car still doesn;t click over, Follow these next set of instruction. They are direct from the Ford Technician's Service Manual for your car.
An alternate programming method is possible and is intended to keep a customer from being stranded, and who has no access to a service shop equipped with diagnostic tools. This interactive procedure takes approximately 45 minutes to complete. The elongated times is necessary to maintain the high level of theft protection provided by the system. When initializing the system using this procedure, it must be followed precisely or the system will abort and the procedure will need to be started over.
This happened before we removed the battery The car wouldn't start so we had the starter tested then removed the battery for testing they said the battery was ok so we put it back in and jumped it to start it. The car started 2 more times after that. Then when it would start again today he had the alternator tested and bought a battery. Now it would start as first stated but all the dash lights and electric windows work
Oh, I gotcha. Was the alternator tested on the car or off the car? If you jump it now, will it start? If your battery and alternator were good, then I would point to either a faulty ignition switch or a starter solenoid. If you have to jump it, then I would go more with the solenoid. It is weakened and requires more voltage to make the solenoid open. To find the solenoid, follow the battery cable (red) to a small round object. It will have another battery cable coming off of it and a push on style (possible nut and connector if changed before) wire. Turn the key on, but do not start it. Remove the small wire on the solenoid. Use a screwdriver with a rubber grip and touch the cable from the battery and the small pin together. It will spark up. If it turns the starter without issues, it is the ignition switch. If it still won't start, replace that solenoid.
Both will also drain a battery as well when they are faulty.
Both starter and alternator were taken off and tested at Auto Zone both got a pass. Tried to jump start the car today and it didn't work Could it be the neutral safety switch??
If you move the shifter from Park to Neutral and back to park with attempts to start in either and the vehicle starts, then yes.
Also, go ahead and clean up your ignition switch. Not the tumbler, but the switch itself. It has a spring in it and it could be filled with debris. You would remove your column to get to it and then you can clean it with a little bit of alcohol and a q tip.
Thank you for you input it's dark here now so we will have to try these things tomorrow