My name is XXXXX XXXXX X will try and assist you.
When you checked the relay, did you see if power was going into the relay and out? Is the relay good?
I just removed the relay and probed inside and found power on two locations.
I did not check the relay. Wasnt really sure how, or was wondering if I could jump 2 locations to simulate an actuated relay and see if the fans kick on. I did induce 12v into the fans, and they work, so they are eliminated as faulty.
There are two relays for your fans. They are side by side. One is the A/C fan relay and the other is the cooling relay. Swap them and see if you get power to the fan module. If so, the relay is bad. This is the quick method. In order for the A/C relay to power, the cooling raly has to power first. Both relays should be the same.
You can. Let me pull a diagram so you can jump the right location.
I was gonna swap them, but they are a different color and one is larger than the other , so I assumed they are different. Neither fan primary or AC fan is working also I can check to see if the markings are the same maybe just a different manufacturer
They are usually the same. Look on the relay. You will see a diagram on it. Where the line goes across, that is the constant power. So you know you need to jump from where that line is, on the left of that digram. The other line looks like a broXXXXX XXXXXne. That is the switch. Where the break it, that circle, that is the other you will need to jump on. That should power your fan. I'm still pulling up the diagram for you.
Or is it SPI?
There is the diagram for the circuit. It is a pdf file.
I'm not sure what happened. I have the diagram for the circuit in the chat section above.
Jump the relay and if it powers up, it is the relay.
OK, I replaced both relays main and AC relay with known good ones from another ford focus we had. Still nothing. I know the fans work bc I hooked them straight to the battery and they work good.
Each fan has a connector that goes to it,. but in the middle of the two fans, there is another similar connector that looks just like the ones that go to each fan, and it seems its hooked to a sensor of some sort? Also wondering where the sensor might be that tells the cooling fans that the engine is hot, and they need to turn on?
That little connector should be your fan high speed/slow speed relays and the sensor that should be attached is actually the engine cooling fan resistor. The sensor that tells the fans to kick on and off is the Cylinder Head Temp Sensor. I have attached a component location sheet for you so you can locate it.
I noticed that the wires going to the resistor are burned up a bit. I think the cooling fan resistor is bad. What is the resistance across the resistor supposed to be? I got the fans to work, but only when I turned the car off once it got hot, it was very intermittent, but did work a couple times but only when the car was off with ignition on.
what is the OEM part number for that cooling fan resistor that is located between the two fans? thanks so much
That should be the OEM part number you need.
Should there be power going into the cooling fan resistor? there are two wires going into it? Also what is the resistance supposed to be across the 2 terminals? Thanks
Yes, you should have power going into it.
If you have power at the relays, but no power at the resistor, there is a short in between. If you look at the diagram I sent previously, power goes from ignition to Power Hold Relay. Then it splits in two, One side goes to High speed fan relay, then the resistor, then to cooling fan motor. Other side of the relay is the switch that is fed from the PCM. The PCM gets its signal from the Cylinder Head Temp sensor and the A/C pressure switches.
Second side goes from ignition to power hold relay to fan relay. From there it goes to the resistor and then the fan motor. There are only two places that both fans feed. That is the power hold relay and the resistor, besides the connections. Now you said you have power at the relays? Did you check them? If there isn't power, the power hold relay could be the cause. If you have power at both relays and not at the resister, then there is a harness or connector problem somewhere.
Here is a Cooling Fan diagnostic chart that gives voltage and resistance checks throughout the circuit.
Here are some harness location sheets so you can find the connectors on the harness and you can check for voltages along the way.
Here is the diagram again for the circuit for what I was referencing above.
According to the diagram, it seems, if we are getting power at both relay sockets, then the cylinder head cooling sensor should be working properly. Is this correct? Please specify voltage checks at cooling sensor. I cannot open that file, it is in xps format and all the others are in pdf format. Thanks
This will allow you to open the files I sent. It is completely free, like Adobe. I don't know why Ford does that...
I am away from my laptop and on my cell phone at the moment at the doctor's office. If you are still unable to view the document, I will get the info to you as soon as I return,
If I'm not mistaken, you should have 5vRef going to the sensor and at least 2vRef coming out on a cold engine. I will have to verify.
we unplugged and jumped the cylinder head temp sensor and sure enough the fans both came on. Still not getting power at the resistor but when we plug the sensor back in, it cuts the fans off. gonna order the sensor. Thanks again!!!!