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autodoc_2000
autodoc_2000, Auto Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 2563
Experience:  ASE Master Tech W/Advanced Engine Performance, Ford Senior Master Certification
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2002 Ford Escape XLS: V6..idling..neutral or park),..drives fine

Resolved Question:

I have a 2002 Ford Escape XLS V6 duratec 4x2, my problem is that after the car is , when i come to stop( or whenever i stop/idling, in neutral or park), i feel hiccups or jumps and cut offs. I f i give the car some gas it stays on and drives fine. Once I'm drving everything feels fine. No problem with RPM, switching gears, acceleration, etc. If I'm stop for a long time I have to put car in neutral, when I put it in neutral it still hiccups.a lil bit but does not turn off. During the hiccups the whole car shakes and kinda lunges back and forth. The interior lights and dashboard lights flicker with the hiccups. After 2 days of this the engine light came on. I have had IAC valve problems before so i replace the IAC with new valve & gasket. I reset PCM,replaced air filter, cleaned throttle body with cleaner( the butter fly vavle, that opens when you press gas pedal, it was very dirty, but cleaned it throughly). Some times a lil problem cranking or starting the car. Also when its stop/idling, the RPM's dont remain constant, it will be at 1/1,000 and i can see hand jump a lil then go below 1/1,000 with each hiccup.

Optional Information:
2002 Ford escape xls V6 duratec 4x2(automatic)

Already Tried:
replacing IAC & gasket
reset PCM
replaced air filter
Clean throttle body( butterfly valve)

Country: United States
Make: Ford
Model: Escape XLS
Year: 2002
Submitted: 4 years ago.
Category: Ford
Expert:  autodoc_2000 replied 4 years ago.

autodoc_2000 :

Hello and welcome to Just Answer. Have you had the codes checked? If so do you remember what codes were present?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
no i haven't, i would have to take it into shop and have diagonistics ran correct?? I havent the closet shop to me charges $150 for this
Expert:  autodoc_2000 replied 4 years ago.

Alot of auto parts stores will retrieve the codes for you at no charge. If you can get the codes I can try to help you diagnose it better. Without the codes it is only a guess. The codes will point you in the direction of the faulty part that is causing this.

 

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
still waiting to get codes, but also tried to run engine after unplugging MAF. I would start engine but as soon as i unplug MAF engine shuts off
Expert:  autodoc_2000 replied 4 years ago.
That is normal most Fords will shut off as soon as the plug is pulled off. Some vehicles will default to a preset setting and allow it to run, but not this one.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
sorry website was down all yesterday. Actually in regards XXXXX XXXXX( this was a quick test recommended by friend). When I started car, I immediately unplugged MAF, car shut off. However If i let car warm up ( run for about 5 min) then unplugged MAF, car sputtered a bit ten continue to run, bur didnt sound normal.

I took a closer note of RPM's also, when i crank car all dials immediately jump up, the RPM's while still in park start a lil above 2,000, then I feel the car try to idle and it drops to approx 1,000. The after 10-15 seconds drops approx 500 RPM. Then the sputtering and hiccups dtart like the car is about to shut off the RPM's tick-tock between(NNN) NNN-NNNN I can feel the engine reving trying to maintain idle. I will say this up until this point car has not shut off completely it just gets very close to stalling out. I t is getting a lil tougher to crank/turn over. Like I said before once Im driving everything seems/sounds/ feels normal until I stop or slow down completely. And the sputtering and hiccups/stalling out returns. But once i hit gas again theres a kick/lurch and car is fine.

I will say this after I did the initial cleaning of throttle body, changing air filter, cleaning IAC, the check engine light went out.( But this maybe because I disconnected negative Battery terminal, never disconnected positive) but the light came back on yesterday. i will say this the heat coming from my hood/engine area seems alot hotter, and this is without hood open, but no changes in temperature gauge on dashboard. Also it seems like a burnt or burnt oil smell coming from engine. I did spell about a cap fill of oil a couple of days ago, so hopefully thats the reason.

As far as the codes(these where taken after i Did the MAF unplugging, then re plugging and driving the car approx 5-8miles in neighborhood never going above 40MPH and cutting car off in driveway and hooking up scan reader and switching ignition to "On" position but not cranking:

P0113 MOD$10, Circuit High Input IAT Sensor 1

Misfire Monitor: Ready
Fuel System: Ready
Comprehen Comp: Ready
Catalyst: not ready
HTD Catalyst: n/a
Evaporative System :Not ready
second air system: n/a
A/C Sys refrig: n/a
oxygen sensor: not ready
HTD O2 Sensor: not ready
Exhaust Gas Rec: not ready
Engine Speed: 624 RPM
Calc load: 38%
Coolant: 208 degrees F
ST FTRM1: 21%
LT FTRM1: -3.2%
ST FTRM2: 21%
LT FTRM2 -3.2%
Speed 0 MPH
Fuel SYS 1: Closed
Fuel SYS 2: n/a

Should i do a drive with scan tool hook up ??
Expert:  autodoc_2000 replied 4 years ago.
Sorry for not getting back sooner. The =code you recieved is for the air temperature sensor. the sensor is located inside the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. Unhooking the sensor connector will cause the code to set, but if the light was on when you unhooked it then there should be another code unless the air temperature sensor is bad. I do not see an IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor reading in your data. If the reading would be off then I would say definatly replace the MAF. I am still leaning in that direction since there are no other codes. Do you have any dtat on the scan tool for IAT?
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