CAUTION: SS3 may pop out of its bore. This may damage the solenoid.
Use a 10mm socket to remove the SS1 and SS3 solenoid clamp screws. Remove the solenoid clamp and the solenoids.
My questions were answered fast and in great detail ! Thank you!
I checked the ohms and shift solenoid 3 checked at 24 ohms and that is supposed to be the solenoid for = PO 761 shift solenoid 3.
I checked the others and one thing I noticed was that torque converter cluth solenoid ( #1 on the drawing ) is only reading 10 ohms. Do you think this is bad?
My trans is a 4R55E I was told. ( if that helps ) Thank you
I took readings on all the solenoids in the transmission. These are my readings =
1. 10 ohms
2. 25.8 ohms
3. 25.7 ohms
4. 4 ohms
5. 25.8 ohms
6., 25.7 ohms
Are any of these way out of line?
Also with the transmission being in the car and me sliding under it, its hard to see the pins. A neighbor was asking if there was a way we could check it at the ECU ? Also were is the ECU located and what wires would we check. If you say he is full of crap and want me to stick to your process I understand. To check the harness I will have to pull some solenoids and I can check it from the bottom if i take off the wire wrapping I can tell which wire is which.
We are also cleaning the cruddy battery post but I dont think it matters. Thank you
This is what I have done and came up with so far, ( neighbor mechanic isnt much help lol )
I tested shift solenoid 1, 2 and 3 with a 9 volt battery and all click ( I did not put in the new shift solenoid #3 yet.
We went to the PCM Harness and checked all three shift solenoids. We plug one end of the OHM meter into the correct coresponding pin and the other end of the OHm meter to the solenoid we were testing. ( solenoids were left pluged in )
I will start with #3 sloenoid since that was the one that gave us the code. Readings are as follows:
#3 = Brown wire 3.4 white wire 26.3
#2 = Brown wire 5.5 white wire 30.7
#1 = Brown wire 3.1 White wire 28.3
To me it shows we have conductivity and decent Ohms. If you agree then what should I text next? Anything else electricly that would keep it from going in gear? Or anything I can check mechanicly?
When I put the car in drive it sounds as if it went into gear but if I press on the gas hard (3000 rpm ) it might move an inch or two only. Does the same thing in 1st and second and reverse.
Thru all this no strage noises are coming from the transmission.
Also I paid for unlimited questions ( the monthly memebership ) so do I need to accept answer everytime. What pays you the most. makes no difference to me because I have unlimited questions from what I read. Thank you Rick
I was very careful and stored the transmission pan in the garage incase I needed to analize it.
There is some sludge built up on the magnet ( no metal felt when ran between my fingers ) But if I dip my finger in the top half of the remaining fluid ( about 1/4 inch in was left in the pan ) it is very clean. It doesnt smell bad after I send this off im going to smell new and the old fluid
I did notice a smaill peice of plastic in the pan which I thought was the gasket but after looking again it is a harder plastic about an 1/8 inch thick and 3/4 inch long. Also I did notice when i checked the #4 epc slonoid it didnt snap with the 9 volt like the others, so I hooked it to the 12 volt battery and it would make a noise but not the snap like the solenoid # XXXXX 2 and 1 did. Seemed weaker not a disticnt snap like the shift solenoids.
I just sent the picture. I noticed the back of touque solenoid kinda broke up when I tried to re install the plug. Plug connected fine and tested fine but the small plastic peice by the clip lost a peice. But that happened after this was found in the pan ( today )
The fluid does not smell bad.
My Son said the transmission seem to slip between gears for the last month he was driving it after I drilled him lol
At this point I can get a remanufactured trans on ebay for $699. and about $100 shipping.
Im just afraid if I spend more time on the first thing you mentioned then it winds up the second etc.. you know what I mean. Anyway I didnt think it was a bad deal and they have like 10 feedbakcs with 100 percet rate What do you think? Im thinking atleast I know it would run again. http://www.1stoptrans.net/ Do you have instructions to remove and install this transmission?
Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the transmission fluid level indicator.
Remove two bolts retaining the fan shroud to the radiator.
Raise the vehicle and position suitable jack stands under the vehicle.
Mark the relationship of the driveshaft flange and the rear axle companion flange, so the driveshaft can be installed in the original position.
Remove two bolts and clips retaining the mid-ship bearing to the rear crossmember. Remove four bolts retaining the driveshaft flange to the rear axle companion flange. Disconnect and remove the driveshaft from the vehicle and install a plug into the extension housing.
Position a drain pan, remove the transmission pan bolts, and drain the fluid. Install the transmission pan, with the original gasket. Remove the drain pan.
Disconnect the shift cable from the transmission manual control lever and remove the cable from the cable bracket.
Remove the oil filter drain funnel retainers. Remove three starter motor bolts and position the starter aside, using mechanics wire. Remove the funnel.
Remove two torque converter access cover bolts and the access cover from the converter housing.
NOTE: Mark the converter stud to the flexplate. The flexplate-to-converter nuts are not reusable.
Rotate the torque converter and remove four converter-to-flexplate nuts. Discard the nuts.
Support the engine.
Install a transmission jack under the transmission. Secure the transmission to the jack.
Remove the transmission mount nuts. Remove the left and right crossmember bolts and nuts. Remove the crossmember.
Disconnect three HO2S connectors from the catalytic converter assembly.
Remove the bolts retaining the Y-pipe to the exhaust manifolds. Remove the converter-to-tailpipe retainers. Secure the tailpipe. Remove the converter hanger bolt and the converter assembly.
NOTE: The case connector fittings must be held in place while loosening the tube nuts from the cooler lines.
Slightly lower the transmission. Remove the bolt retaining the cooler lines to the right side of the engine block. Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler lines. Cap the cooler lines and plug the fittings at the transmission.
Disconnect both transmission 16-pin connectors at the left rear cylinder head. Remove the transmission-to-engine bolts. Remove the fluid level indicator tube.
CAUTION: Make sure the torque converter separates from the flexplate and remains seated in the transmission. Do not allow the transmission to tip forward, as the converter could fall out while lowering the transmission.
Separate the transmission from the engine and carefully lower the transmission from the vehicle.
You'll want to put the pan back on first, so you have a place for jacking it up.
Let me know if I can assist you furthur in any way.
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