Hello. Thank you for using Just Answer. I will give my best efforts in answering your question to achieve your full satisfaction. First, the air ride... 1. Turn the key on and see if the compressor runs. 2. If the compressor does not run, Verify that fuse 9 in the Battery Junction Box (BJB) that feeds power to pin 87 of the compressor relay is good. If OK, recheck power directly at the relay. 3. Verify that pin 85 of the relay is properly grounded. 4. The Air Ride Control Module (ARC) applies power from pin 18 Dark Blue/Yellow (DB/Y) C2000 to pin 86 of the relay to energize the relay. When the relay is energized, it should close and power from terminal 87 should energize terminal 30 that feeds power on the Purple/Orange (P/O) wire to the compressor. 5. If the ground is good at terminal 85 and the ARC applies power to pin 86 and the relay does not energize, replace the relay. 6. If the relay does energize as it should and power is applied to pin 30, recheck power at the compressor on the P/O and check for a good ground at the compressor on the Black (BK) wire. If OK, and the compressor does not run, replace the compressor. 7. If there is no power from the relay on the P/O wire, repair the open circuit. 8. If the compressor does run when the key is turned on, runs awhile and then shuts off, it indicates that there may be an air leak in the system or a weak pump. The ARC module will shut off the compressor if it does not detect the suspension rising so the compressor does not burn itself out.
The ARC relay is located in the Auxiliary relay box #1 near the battery
The speedometer will be tricky and require a scan tool that can acess the computers mentioned. While the condition is present... Drive the vehicle and monitor the MPH on ABS computer DATA. If the ABS has no DATA, go after the Rear Axle Speed Sensor and harness. If all good, then the ABS module is at fault. Inspect that harness very closely and make sure the connection at the sensor is clean and good before condemning the ABS module. If the MPH does show on the ABS DATA, monitor the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) signal DC pulse on the Grey/Black to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and Cluster. If the ABS DATA is OK and there is no signal on the Grey/black wire, replace the ABS Module. If the signal on the gray wire is present at the PCM and the cluster, replace the speedometer.
As for the radio display...
There are no serviceable components inside the radio chassis. If the radio continues to operate normally when the display goes blank, remove the radio and send out to an authorized repair facility for repair or replace the radio unit.
Ok . . . I accept the answer on the Speedo, I have already checked and I am getting reading on my scantool showing I have mph even when it drops off of the display, so will replace the speedo
Correct. Assuming the wiring is good and the connections are good
Do you have any questions on the air ride or radio?
On the Radio, I have seen posts that people have removed and resoldered resistors to the board that come loose and is a common problem with the mach radios, also I see that people have ordered a set of 3 boards and replaced.
As for the air I have some questions and it may take a while to figure out and really need help on this one
The radio LCD controllers are common to be poorly soldered. If you are good at soldering, you can take the radio apart and see which ones are coming off and repair it.
My pump is working, on the vehicle I can hear it run and then after about 20 minutes I get the message to check the air ride system
I have pressure tested the shocks and struts using a compressor and gauge and no leaks
I have pressure tested the air hoses again no leak
I have removed the solenoids and pressure tested, check that they open and close with 12V applied and using air and all 3 of them check out ok
I have removed the air pump and dryer unit and tested with 12V and made sure I am building up pressure and no problem either
So the vehicle is pumping up the system and after 20 minutes the compressor turns off? The vehicle does raise correct?
I just brought the vehicle and it has not worked since the day I got it
I am not seeing the vehicle physically raise
but the vehicle is not down low?
and if I pull the air line from the shocks after the vehicle has been running and pump been running I am not getting any real volume of air some from the shocks. I am getting some but not much
Yes its low
Here is my question, I have got the wiring diagrams from alldata and I noticed one thing
I am seeing something called an Shock Actuator, but I cant find them?
Have you checked the The vent solenoid valve: - Is enclosed in the cylinder head casting, which forms an integral valve housing that allows the valve tip to enter the pressurized side of the system. - Opens when the control module determines lowering is required. - Provides an escape route for pressurized air that opens when system pressures exceed safe operating levels
Allow me to post a complete description/operation of this system along with component locations.
That would be great as I have not been able to find or check this
On the shock actuators I can find the connectors for the rear C431 and C432 but nothing connected them? I cant find the connectors for the front
I think that you have a leak in the system or a weak compressor. The compressor runs for 20 minutes, overheats and turns off. I am quite confident that you will find a leak or a weak compressor. Maybe both. When the compressor is running, use a very soapy solution in a spray bottle to look for leaks. If no leaks are present, then a weak compressor is your problem.
The compressor is not running continuously for 20 minutes it cuts in and out as I drive, once I have driven and gotten out of the vehicle the pump comes on and off a few times and then quits after a few moments
I know there is not a leak in the system unless it is in the vent solenoid.
can you give me more directions on finding the vent solenoid
also what is your take on the shock actuators?
But the vehicle is low correct? Have you ever had problems with the dome lights staying on or turning on while driving?
No problems with the dome lights
I am wondering if the vent solenoid is stuck open as this is about the only thing I have not been able to check
or the actuators?
The diagram you have sent me is the same as what I have and it does not show the vent solenoid or actuators
Let me see what I can locate
Also when you say the Vent Solenoid is integral with the cylinder head, you do mean the cylinder head of the air compressor right? If so then I do not have a leak
So here is my other thought, I know I have compressed air, I know I dont have a leak
I also know that my 3 solenoids are good
What I dont know is what the shock actuators are
and I dont know that the solenoids are opening when they should
maybe a wiring issue to the solenoids as they are normally closed unless 12V applied
FRONT FILL SOLENOID The front fill solenoid connects the output of the compressor assembly to the two front air springs. When energized, air pressure to the front axle can be modified, affecting its height relative to the body. The front fill solenoid is also used to bleed the front air. They are located on the frame. springs of compressed air.
Those are the 3 solenoids I have taken off and bench tested
They are all good
The shock actuators and solenoids are the same thing.
Now, do you think that a level sensor can be faulty?\
Not from the wiring diagram I have, it shows them as different
I have not tested the level sensors either
I can disconnect them and put a meter on them and disconnect the lever and test with a meter
The back is easy, the front is a little harder
The actuators I am showing use connectors as follows
C431 Rear Right
C432 Left Rear
C1003 Right Front
C1002 Left Front
The Solenoids use connectors
C428 Rear Fill
C1001 Front Fill
C429 Rear gate
The Actuators are a 3 wire connector and the solenoids are a 2 wire harness
Are you pulling your diagrams from alldata? or from ford? I can direct you where I am looking if you would like
Actuators goto the ARC on pin 25, 16, 14, 24, 19, 26, 23, 13
Solenoids goto the AC on pins 17, 16, 27, 30
The height sensors on the front are also the pass though for the front shock actuators. The rear shocks should have electrical connectors going to them. The shocks have internal motors to adjust dampering called shoch actuators.
Did someone swap the shocks with regular non dynamic control shocks?
Ok now I am stumped . . Where are the height sensors, I have not found these either?
Also on the back there is no connectors going to them
or on them
on the front shocks the sensors are mounted as shown in the image
So I guess it looks like the rears for sure have the incorrect shocks
Is this part of the shock, or is this a sensor that should be attached to the SUV?
I dont think these are on the SUV either
On the rear it should look as shown
Looks like the problem is not in the air ride but the shocks. Some one put in normal conversion shocks on the vehicle
Allow me to see what I can find for parts for the sensors and shocks that should be on this vehile
The last picture you sent is that a shock or is that the height sensor for the rear?
same with the previous picture is that the height adjuster or the shock?
It is the sensor on the shock for both images
May I get the VIN#?
Ok cool, Thanks just a moment
Well... The whole problem here is that somebody has decided to convert this vehicle from air ride shocks to conventional shocks. Go to fordparts.com and type in your VIN. Under the suspension category, you wil find 2 sub categories. One will be shocks which will show you the shocks. The other will be suspension springs and related components. You can find the correct shocks and level sensors along with the shocking prices. you will fully understand why someone installed conventional shocks on this vehicle.
Your problem of the message is not due to the air system but the dynamic shocks not being on the vehicle.
ok thanks that helps a bunch
not good news.
Is there anything else I could help you with this evening?
My understanding is that the sensors for the rear are integral with the shock provided I have the right shock right?
On the front is that the same story, or do I need to purchase a sensor also?
as well as the shock?
that would be correct
sensors are sold seperate from the shocks
Can you tell me the part number I need?
for the sensor (s)
Sorry to be a pain, I just dont want to get the wrong thing
Also the shocks I have have obviously have a port for air? how is this typically used?
rear F77Z5A900AA front F77Z5359BA
Ok I have fordparts.com pulled up and my vin
I am trying to do a search by part # XXXXX the left and nothing is comming up with these 2 part numbers?
The air line going to the shocks is used for soft or hard ride control and can adjust the ride height up to 2 inches.
Check the site by application rather than part number. This site uses different part numbers than ford part numbers.
or google the part numbers and you will find a few soources where you can purchase the sensors
thanks, XXXXX XXXXX seeing like 20 different shocks can you point me in the right direction on these also?
They range from like $166 - $ 350+
You are looking for the shocks that are left hand drive vehicles and with air suspension.
The best part of this site is that you can shoot them an email with your VIN and the parts you are looking for. They will send you an email back with what you need, prices and a link to the purchase cart already filled for you.
cool, thanks for your help, you have been the best help
I may check out the local junk yard for the sensors
I would not trust the used sensors. But your call.
ok good advise
I found these 2 diagrams that show the signal from the ARC module to the driver information center on a DG/LG (Dark Green/Light Green) wire. The ARC module grounds that wire. But... I can not locate any information on if that wire is grounded when there is a fault or if that wire is grounded under a no fault condition. So, cut the wire at the driver information center OR the ARC module (Your Choice). If the error message for the air suspension turns off, then you are good. If the error message stays on, then grounding the wire will turn the message off. You can also simply see if that wire has a ground when the error message is displayed or not grounded. I think that you get the idea.
I would like to hear how you come out so please reply with your results. Thanks.
So the problem was is the cluster. I am happy that you managed to save the money. That is always good news. Bad solder joints are much more common than you ever imagine on all vehicles and even household electronics.
The problem is that the average individual does not have the ability to solder a circuit board without damaging it much less locating the bad solder spots and/or identifying failed components. I can't tell the average consumer to look for poor solder joints, blown capacitors, or how to test internal electronic parts as they will be so lost neither I or they will ever find their way back home.
I see that you have the abilities and are capable of locating and repairing such problems.
At work, there have been MANY and MANY computers, heater control panels, radio displays, instrument clusters... that I have disassembled, inspected, and repaired with simply soldering a bad joint or replacing a burned $0.75 capacitor. People are happier than ever knowing that a $750 computer was fixed with $2 worth of parts and $100 labor fee. It is when the processors, timers, rams, and driver controllers go out that a problem is untraceable since there is no visual problem.
You should have seen me tackle my LCD TV that let the smoke out. $14 worth of capacitors, one thermistor, 2 fuses, and some careful soldering saved me $1200 after a thunderstorm power surge. My old lady thought I was nuts until she saw the thing light back up with a clear picture! I was right I told her!!! I think that the house got hit since the surge protector fried and the electric company's surge box in the garage was fried. I had no power for 2 days until they replaced it.
It is a great thing to repair things rather than replace, is it not? I find it rewarding.
I will be looking forward to further updates from you.