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Did you have the proceedure on how to do this? and did you follow it exactly?
bleeding the system that is?
yes i filled the engine fill till full while engine off.then i ran it with the degas open filled
while the bleeder open
does the defroster have to be on or it doesnt matter
here let me post the instructions for you.The LS is very tempermental and you must follow these instructions to the letter.
do i have to drain and start over??
1. Remove the engine fill cap
2.Open the heater air bleed
3. Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added
4. Replace the degas bottle cap
5. Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open
6. Replace the engine fill cap
NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.
Start the engine and turn the heater to MAX position
8. Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant comes from it, during engine idle
9. Allow the engine to idle for five minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark
10. Reopen the heater air bleed to release any entrapped air and close again
11. Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater
12. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
13. Set the heater temperature setting to 24° C (75° F) and allow the vehicle to idle for two minutes
14. Shut the engine off and allow to cool
15. After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark.
Now you will not need to drain it again just follow these instructions exactly
Did you remove the engine fill cap and add coolant there also?
so max position is defrost on 90f or it doesnt matter as long as it is on 90
just as long as it is set to max heat
yes it is full when engine is off and when i first start it
also i dont see a cold fill mark on the degas bottle. where is that?
i get a dribble out of the bleeder
ok just making sure you knew where it was.Follow the instructions I sent you to the letter and this should solve your problem unless you have a stuck thermostat or bad water pump that is not allowing the coolant to circulate
when i remove yhe
It just sounds like you have trapped air though since you do get some heat at 2K RPM
the engine fill cap i can see the coolant circulating
yes it sounds like trapped air
am i harming the engine if i drive it while it is like this
Yes you could since the heads are aluminum you could warp them or blow a head gasket
so the engine could be overheating when the coolant temp reads 1/2
the engine is full of coolant. it doesnt circulate properly while the heating system is airbound?
if it is not actually overheating then it would not harm anything.This vehicle has a cylinder head temp sensor and it measures metal temps. If the temp exceed a certain temp then the computer will go into a fail save mode and start killing one bank of cylinders at a time and use them as sort of an air pump instead to try and cool engine down,if it can not then the computer will shut engine down to prevent damage.
So if you are not feeling a big loss of power like computer shutting cylinders down then you are not overheating.
no i dont
you should not be hurting anything then just won'y have heat inside the car.
so it couldent be a dccv it sounds like it is making a weird noise when running
does that block coolant going to heater core?
Well the codes you posted are open circuit codes for the drivers side and passenger side air discharge sensors
The DCCV does control the coolant to the heater core.Is the hoses going to the DCCV good and hot?
that means that the temp sensors arent getting coolant because airbound correct
yes they get hot
i noticed the 3rd hose comming from the firewall isnt as hot as yhe othet 2
where did the chat go
The air discharge sensors are located in the heater box under the dash on each side of the tunnel.You will have two sensors on the drivers side,one is the evap temp sensor and the other is the air temp sensors and then you have the passenger side one on the right
i i need to write the bleed steps down they just dissapered
Yeah again that sounds like air trapped in the system
just scroll back up then copy and paste them to a word doc on your PC
cant the scroll isnt there.
only there for the whole page not the chat
15. After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark
here it is im having my girl write them down
Just copy them where I reposted it and then paste it to a word doc
ok so if i follow these steps and it doesnt work,id change out the water pump or?
No if you see the coolant circulating then it should be ok.
I would concentrate in the temp sensors since you are getting codes for both
so i should change these? where are they located
Here is a pic of the one on the passnger side
behind the glove box?
The drivers side will be located on the other side of the heater housing above the floor vent but you will have teo sensors on that side the other one is the evap sensor
these are both under the dash above the floor heat vents
You will first need to test them with an ohm meter and they should read
so these are bad or they are throwing codes because airbound?
the codes are for open circuit to these two sensors,1966 is drivers side and 2468 is passenger side
open circut means?
If the resistance measures good on the sensors then measure the voltage between the wires on the sensor connectors and they should read between 4.7 to 5.1V
open circuit means that one of the wires or the sensor is open so the voltage sent to it on one wire is not returning on the other wire
so the codes i see are not caused by being airbound
the codes are not from being air bound
how ever I still believe you have trapped air because normally on Fords the default is heat when you have a sensor malfunction
so is that wht im getting no heat.or there will be heat with these codes/
it should be heat with these codes
Does AC work ok?
the dual climate wont work
yes the ac comes on when i put defrost on. whatever heat i had when i had it in forward vent goes cold when i put it on defrost
well i really dont no it the dual climate works because i cant get steady hot heat
Yes that is because the AC comes on which is normal on defrost,this is to remove humidity to help keep the windshield from fogging
ooohh thats why cars do that i allways wondered why
so with so little heat when you turn on defrost then it goes cold
not to change the subject but the a/c filter is that that can looking thing bolted to the fan shroud?
r u there?
nope it is located under the cowl panel on passenger side. Here is a link to replacing it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWjZLHNYs7E&feature=related
Now on the two sensors here is the wiring scheamtic to them so you can get an idea of what you are looking for on the codes.
As you can see the control head sends a voltage out to them which is a 5V reference voltage and then the control head looks at the returning voltage to see what the temp is and adjust the heat or AC accordingly
yea that looks like something ill never understand lol
now since you have codes for both sensors then I would suspect and open circuit that is common to both like the joint connector at the top of the schematic
yea ill be bringing it to the dealer for that. if i change them and i still get codes
Here is a pic of the joint connector I have circled it in red
so it maybe a bad commection
on pass side?
yes I would look at the joint connecter I have circled.See the refernce voltage leaves the control head and goes to the joint connector on the brown and blue wire and then leaves the joint connector to the two sensors and then goes thru the two sensors and returns to the control head,see pins 18 and 6
Yes that is under the dash on the passenger side behind the kick panel
so its the only brown and blue in that location?
It will have 4 wires in that connector,two brown/blue and brown/green, and brown/yellow
Now if that connector is ok then you can try one more thing,there are two of these sensors on the drivers side,swap them and see if the 1966 code clears
here is how you remove the sensors
Remove the sensor using a rocking motion
if the sensor itself is bad and you swap them then the 1966 should clear and you should then get a 1946
so if the bleed doesnt work can i jack up the front so the rad is above the heater cores will it push out the air that way?
if that connector is good and you swap the sensors and the code remains then you either have a bad wire from the control head or the control head itself could be the problem
is that common on these? bad wires?
Nope that doesn't work on the LS to well.Make sure you follw the bleed intructions to the letter that I sent you.
No haven't seen many wiring problems on these usually a bad sensor, but to have two go bad at same time would be unusual also.
the car was hit in the front when i purchaced it maybe a wire got pinched somewhere. not hit bad able to pull the rad support out change hood and lights
also the front blinker and the side marker light doesnt work
maybe the impact damaged the sensors
yeah pull the right kick panel and check those connectors there
then try swapping the two left side sneors and see what codes you get then
ok thanke for your help
let me know if you need more info
so i can follow up on this without having to puy 48 dollars again?
just reply back to this thread
if you open a new question then you will be charged again