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Chuck
Chuck, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 2100
Experience:  33 Years Experience,Ford Senior Master,ASE Master,L1 Advanced Engine Performance
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i have a 2000 lincoln ls 3.9. changed radiator. no heat coming

Customer Question

i have a 2000 lincoln ls 3.9. changed radiator. no heat coming up with codes 1966 2428. tried the bleeding process a couple of times still no coolant coming out of the heater bleed.it will come out when i squeese the rad, hose then stops. is it harmfull to drive the car? overheating without knowing? engine temp reads halfway.i get some heat when i let it run at 2000 rpm for a lil bit on forward vent,.also when i put it on defrost it turns cold..?? what should i do?
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Ford
Expert:  Chuck replied 2 years ago.

Chuck :

Did you have the proceedure on how to do this? and did you follow it exactly?

Chuck :

bleeding the system that is?

Customer :

yes i filled the engine fill till full while engine off.then i ran it with the degas open filled

Customer :

while the bleeder open

Customer :

does the defroster have to be on or it doesnt matter

Chuck :

here let me post the instructions for you.The LS is very tempermental and you must follow these instructions to the letter.

Customer :

do i have to drain and start over??

Chuck :

1. Remove the engine fill cap

Chuck :

2.Open the heater air bleed

Chuck :

3. Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added

Chuck :

4. Replace the degas bottle cap

Chuck :

5. Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open

Chuck :

6. Replace the engine fill cap

Chuck :

7.

NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.

Start the engine and turn the heater to MAX position

Chuck :

8. Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant comes from it, during engine idle

Chuck :

9. Allow the engine to idle for five minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark

Chuck :

10. Reopen the heater air bleed to release any entrapped air and close again

Chuck :

11. Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater

Chuck :

12. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.

Chuck :

13. Set the heater temperature setting to 24° C (75° F) and allow the vehicle to idle for two minutes

Chuck :

14. Shut the engine off and allow to cool

Chuck :

15. After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark.

Chuck :

Now you will not need to drain it again just follow these instructions exactly

Chuck :

Did you remove the engine fill cap and add coolant there also?

Customer :

so max position is defrost on 90f or it doesnt matter as long as it is on 90

Chuck :

correct

Chuck :

just as long as it is set to max heat

Customer :

yes it is full when engine is off and when i first start it

Customer :

also i dont see a cold fill mark on the degas bottle. where is that?

Customer :

i get a dribble out of the bleeder

Chuck :

ok just making sure you knew where it was.Follow the instructions I sent you to the letter and this should solve your problem unless you have a stuck thermostat or bad water pump that is not allowing the coolant to circulate

Customer :

when i remove yhe

Chuck :

It just sounds like you have trapped air though since you do get some heat at 2K RPM

Customer :

the engine fill cap i can see the coolant circulating

Chuck :

yes it sounds like trapped air

Customer :

am i harming the engine if i drive it while it is like this

Chuck :

Yes you could since the heads are aluminum you could warp them or blow a head gasket

Customer :

so the engine could be overheating when the coolant temp reads 1/2

Customer :

the engine is full of coolant. it doesnt circulate properly while the heating system is airbound?

Chuck :

if it is not actually overheating then it would not harm anything.This vehicle has a cylinder head temp sensor and it measures metal temps. If the temp exceed a certain temp then the computer will go into a fail save mode and start killing one bank of cylinders at a time and use them as sort of an air pump instead to try and cool engine down,if it can not then the computer will shut engine down to prevent damage.

Chuck :

So if you are not feeling a big loss of power like computer shutting cylinders down then you are not overheating.

Customer :

no i dont

Chuck :

you should not be hurting anything then just won'y have heat inside the car.

Customer :

so it couldent be a dccv it sounds like it is making a weird noise when running

Customer :

does that block coolant going to heater core?

Chuck :

Well the codes you posted are open circuit codes for the drivers side and passenger side air discharge sensors

Customer :

ok

Chuck :

The DCCV does control the coolant to the heater core.Is the hoses going to the DCCV good and hot?

Customer :

that means that the temp sensors arent getting coolant because airbound correct

Customer :

yes they get hot

Customer :

i noticed the 3rd hose comming from the firewall isnt as hot as yhe othet 2

Customer :

where did the chat go

Chuck :

The air discharge sensors are located in the heater box under the dash on each side of the tunnel.You will have two sensors on the drivers side,one is the evap temp sensor and the other is the air temp sensors and then you have the passenger side one on the right

Customer :

i i need to write the bleed steps down they just dissapered

Chuck :

Yeah again that sounds like air trapped in the system

Chuck :

just scroll back up then copy and paste them to a word doc on your PC

Customer :

cant the scroll isnt there.

Customer :

only there for the whole page not the chat

Chuck :

1. Remove the engine fill cap

9:18 PM

2.Open the heater air bleed

9:19 PM

3. Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added

9:19 PM

4. Replace the degas bottle cap

9:19 PM

5. Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open

9:19 PM

6. Replace the engine fill cap

9:20 PM

7.

NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.

Start the engine and turn the heater to MAX position

9:20 PM

8. Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant comes from it, during engine idle

9:20 PM

9. Allow the engine to idle for five minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark

9:21 PM

10. Reopen the heater air bleed to release any entrapped air and close again

9:21 PM

11. Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater

9:21 PM

12. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.

9:22 PM

13. Set the heater temperature setting to 24° C (75° F) and allow the vehicle to idle for two minutes

9:22 PM

14. Shut the engine off and allow to cool

9:22 PM

15. After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark

Customer :

here it is im having my girl write them down

Chuck :

Just copy them where I reposted it and then paste it to a word doc

Customer :

ok so if i follow these steps and it doesnt work,id change out the water pump or?

Chuck :

No if you see the coolant circulating then it should be ok.

Chuck :

I would concentrate in the temp sensors since you are getting codes for both

Customer :

so i should change these? where are they located

Chuck :

Here is a pic of the one on the passnger side

Customer :

behind the glove box?

Chuck :

The drivers side will be located on the other side of the heater housing above the floor vent but you will have teo sensors on that side the other one is the evap sensor

Chuck :

these are both under the dash above the floor heat vents

Chuck :

You will first need to test them with an ohm meter and they should read

Customer :

so these are bad or they are throwing codes because airbound?

Chuck :
  • Is the resistance within the specified values for these temperature ranges: 10-20°C (50-68°F) 37,000-58,000 ohms; 20-30°C (68-86°F) 24,000-37,000 ohms; 30-40°C (86-104°F) 16,000-24,000 ohms?
  • Chuck :

    the codes are for open circuit to these two sensors,1966 is drivers side and 2468 is passenger side

    Customer :

    open circut means?

    Chuck :

    If the resistance measures good on the sensors then measure the voltage between the wires on the sensor connectors and they should read between 4.7 to 5.1V

    Chuck :

    open circuit means that one of the wires or the sensor is open so the voltage sent to it on one wire is not returning on the other wire

    Customer :

    so the codes i see are not caused by being airbound

    Customer :

    ok

    Chuck :

    the codes are not from being air bound

    Chuck :

    how ever I still believe you have trapped air because normally on Fords the default is heat when you have a sensor malfunction

    Customer :

    so is that wht im getting no heat.or there will be heat with these codes/

    Chuck :

    it should be heat with these codes

    Chuck :

    Does AC work ok?

    Customer :

    the dual climate wont work

    Customer :

    yes the ac comes on when i put defrost on. whatever heat i had when i had it in forward vent goes cold when i put it on defrost

    Customer :

    well i really dont no it the dual climate works because i cant get steady hot heat

    Chuck :

    Yes that is because the AC comes on which is normal on defrost,this is to remove humidity to help keep the windshield from fogging

    Customer :

    ooohh thats why cars do that i allways wondered why

    Chuck :

    so with so little heat when you turn on defrost then it goes cold

    Customer :

    ok

    Customer :

    not to change the subject but the a/c filter is that that can looking thing bolted to the fan shroud?

    Customer :

    r u there?

    Chuck :

    nope it is located under the cowl panel on passenger side. Here is a link to replacing it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWjZLHNYs7E&feature=related

    Chuck :

    Now on the two sensors here is the wiring scheamtic to them so you can get an idea of what you are looking for on the codes.

    Chuck :

    As you can see the control head sends a voltage out to them which is a 5V reference voltage and then the control head looks at the returning voltage to see what the temp is and adjust the heat or AC accordingly

    Customer :

    yea that looks like something ill never understand lol

    Chuck :

    now since you have codes for both sensors then I would suspect and open circuit that is common to both like the joint connector at the top of the schematic

    Customer :

    yea ill be bringing it to the dealer for that. if i change them and i still get codes

    Chuck :

    Here is a pic of the joint connector I have circled it in red

    Customer :

    so it maybe a bad commection

    Customer :

    on pass side?

    Chuck :

    yes I would look at the joint connecter I have circled.See the refernce voltage leaves the control head and goes to the joint connector on the brown and blue wire and then leaves the joint connector to the two sensors and then goes thru the two sensors and returns to the control head,see pins 18 and 6

    Chuck :

    Yes that is under the dash on the passenger side behind the kick panel

    Customer :

    so its the only brown and blue in that location?

    Chuck :

    It will have 4 wires in that connector,two brown/blue and brown/green, and brown/yellow

    Chuck :

    Now if that connector is ok then you can try one more thing,there are two of these sensors on the drivers side,swap them and see if the 1966 code clears

    Chuck :

    here is how you remove the sensors

    Chuck :

    Remove the sensor using a rocking motion

    Customer :

    ok

    Chuck :

    if the sensor itself is bad and you swap them then the 1966 should clear and you should then get a 1946

    Customer :

    so if the bleed doesnt work can i jack up the front so the rad is above the heater cores will it push out the air that way?

    Chuck :

    if that connector is good and you swap the sensors and the code remains then you either have a bad wire from the control head or the control head itself could be the problem

    Customer :

    is that common on these? bad wires?

    Chuck :

    Nope that doesn't work on the LS to well.Make sure you follw the bleed intructions to the letter that I sent you.

    Chuck :

    No haven't seen many wiring problems on these usually a bad sensor, but to have two go bad at same time would be unusual also.

    Customer :

    the car was hit in the front when i purchaced it maybe a wire got pinched somewhere. not hit bad able to pull the rad support out change hood and lights

    Customer :

    also the front blinker and the side marker light doesnt work

    Customer :

    maybe the impact damaged the sensors

    Customer :

    ?

    Chuck :

    yeah pull the right kick panel and check those connectors there

    Chuck :

    then try swapping the two left side sneors and see what codes you get then

    Customer :

    ok thanke for your help

    Chuck :

    you're welcome

    Chuck :

    let me know if you need more info

    Customer :

    so i can follow up on this without having to puy 48 dollars again?

    Chuck :

    just reply back to this thread

    Chuck :

    if you open a new question then you will be charged again

    Customer :

    thanks

    Chuck :

    you're welcome

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