I checked the 5 pin connector that connects to the wiper motor:
Looking at the connector with the clip on top (pins 1 -5, left to right) - I measured with the negative meter lead to the ground terminal on the battery:
1 - 5.4V, 2 - 12V, 3 - 0V, 4 - 5.4V, 5 - 0V
These readings were the same whether the MFS was in the 'off', 'lo', 'hi' - or intermittent. I was assuming there would be a change from off to on.
I don't have a code reader or anything, was just looking for water in the gem/fuse box.
Cruise control works - no problem.
Took fuse out for dome light a few months ago cuz it would take forever to shut off. Assumed it was the switch in the door.
Do the readings for the motor sound right?
I do have 12V on black/white all the time. The 30A fuse is good, first thing I checked.
So the pin #s I gave you before: 1-Blue, 2-Blk/Wht, 3-Blk, 4-Wht, 5-Blue/Orange. I always have 12V on pin2 (Blk/Wht). The readings I gave before: I have 5.4V on Pin 4 (Wht) no matter what position the switch is in with the key turned on. I also have 5.4V on pin 1 (blue) - no matter what swithc position with the key on. Can I put power from the battery to black (-) and white (-) to dbl chk the motor. Or will this cause problems....
There are three identical relays in the fuse box (engine compartment) - wipers - hi/lo, wipers - run/park, washer pump. Positions 1,2,3. I switched these around to see if I had a bad relay - if one of them is gone will it cause nothing in the wiper system to work? Is there a way to check these relays (they don't click like the larger ones)
Ohm'd all three relays earlier - all about 90 Ohmk, +/- 1 Ohm. So I figured they were good.
The hi/lo relay is one relay only. I'll wrap wire around the relay posts so I can check to see if there are two powers on each with the key on.
The GEM is hard to get to, I don't have a detailed wiring diagram. Don't know how to check for ground to the relay..
I'm not using a test light, but I did the same thing with a fluke multimeter, hooked one lead to battery power - other lead to pin 2 receptacle for the hi/lo wiper relay. Voltage did not change at all - it remained like 0.07 and didn't flicker.
Input is from the MFS which is good. Unless there is a bad connection somewhere.
I checked the relays - there are two powers on all with the key on as there should be.
If you are able to get a reading but the GEM is not sending out a signal then you have an issue with the GEM.
Don't quite get what your saying here. I double checked (had to make a wire to fit into relay cavity pin 2. I have 0V there with the switch in hi and lo. So it seems to me that there is no output from the GEM to the relay. Relays are good.
How can I double check the motor??
the link above is the one I found for MFS test. All the resistance values were very close to what the chart shows. In some cases they weren't exact but very close. I tested this with the MFS out. I'd have to take the connectors back off the GEM and check the resistance values on the same wires at the GEM plug to ensure the signals are getting from the switch to the actual GEM. Could be one of the connectors, either on the MFS or the GEM - when I had it apart all the pins looked clean at the GEM connectors (two bolt on ones) and on the MFS connectors. I could not get the small grey connector out of the side of the GEM itself - these are the inputs I'm assuming? The connector did not want to come out, I did not want to break it. I opened up the GEM and there were no signs of moisture at all, no rust.
Having checked all fuses and everything again - installing all fuses where they should be. I took apart the negative post of the battery and cleaned up the clamp (very corroded) and checked the ground wire hookups to the battery, wires do not to be corroded or anything. From the wiper motor connector I confirmed there was good ground (closed circuit from negative post to black wire on connector).
With all fuses in and good, my symptoms still are:
No wipers - hence no washer pump
No door / key in ignition / light chimes
No Dome light
Everything else on the vehicle works fine, no issues.
Physically, it's very difficult to put power to the motor connection because of the connector socket. I need to put power on blk/wht, and wht - and at the same time ground black - which is in between the two powers. I have alligator clips - I'll try it if I can insulate between the alligator clips somehow. If I took the whole assembly back out of the truck it would be easier - might have to.
I'm going to see if the Haynes manual has the wiring diagrams I need - it would save me from bothering you.
If the small grey connector on the side of the GEM carries the inputs - I'll check the values from the switch at that connector. If the inputs are getting there and I find that the motor is good, I'll know it's got to be the GEM. Do you agree.
If I put
I removed the fuse box / GEM today. I was able to get the input plug / harness out of the side of the GEM this time. I traced the wire colors back to the MFS. I ohmd the MFS signals at the GEM female connector. I had to make wires again so that they would fit in the GEM input connector. I found the resistance values to be higher in some cases measured at this connector, however, they follow the same pattern for testing (ie. i3.3KOhm (on hi) to 100.3KOhm on the slowest intermittent setting). I assumed that the readings were higher because of the additional connectors, length of wires, and homemade pigtails I had to make to test.
I grabbed a test light while I was out too. Good ground at the wiper motor connector, good battery power (blk/wht) - no power at wht or db/o with the switch in any position. Removed the hi/lo relay for the wipers and repeated the test at pin 2. Pin 1 of the relay has 12V as it should - pin 2 has nothing with the switch on hi or lo - light doesn't flicker.
Since my dome light and door chimes are not working either, inputs to the GEM seem fine, relays have 2 powers, ground is good to motor, battery power blk/wht is good to the motor - it has to be the GEM..........lol
I'm sure you've had a good laugh at me - the GEM is $400 (before programming and installation) - so I really wanted to make sure that I needed it. And that I wasn't missing something stupid like a bad connector or whatever.