Hello, take a look at the attached illustration and tell me if the fuse that I have indicated is blown or not
About 12 V on B+ pin.
All fuses in engine compartment look good.
I would try your old coil again, I think you got a defective one, if that is the only thing you have done to go from running on 5 cylinders to running on none. If your old coil allows it to start and run on the original 5 cylinders, then take the other one back and cus at the clerk for selling you junk. get back to me and let me know what happens. I must get to bed, early day tomorrow
I'm going to bed as well. However, more background. The van was no spark/no start before. Not just running on 5 cyl. There was no resistance on coil 2 (plugs 2/6), so the old one was definitely bad. Completely checked the new one before install and it tested out perfect (almost 11 Kohms through all three coils and 1 ohm betwen B+ and all three connectors). I'm thinking my PCM may have a problem. Any way to test out without expensive diagnostic equip?
More Background- Car just stuttered and stopped running while driving. I won't say it was running great before it died, but it would start and get us around. Had a P0174, P0171,P0402,P0302, and P0156 code. Replaced DPFE sensor and car was running a little better prior to the stall.
After replacing the coil, I really thought I had fixed the problem. Still will not start!
dtc p0402 is for excessive egr flow at idle, a dpfe sensor only measures the flow of exhaust into the engine and does not control the amount of flow. A defective dpfe sensor could set the p0402 or your egr valve is stuck open, an egr valve that is stuck open will cause a no start if it is open far enough, and will cause a runs rough at idle if it is open just a little. the p0174, &172 are telling you that you have a vacuum and the 02 sensors are reading too much oxygen in the exhaust, p0302 is a cylinder 2 miss fire detected. and p0156 is telling you that you have a problem with the downstream 02 sensor on bank 2. None of these codes can cause a lack of spark. As you have power on the coil circuit. you need to find out if you have a signal from the pcm to energize the coil, take your test light, hook the clamp to the POSITIVE battery terminal, touch the probe to the other three wires at the coil connector one at a time while an assistant cranks the engine and see if you are getting a flashing light. If not your cam position sensor is probably bad.
Tested each wire in the connector. Starting from B+, 1st wire no light at all (during cranking or key off), 2nd wire lights even with car keys out of car, does not flash when car is cranking, 3rd wire no light (during cranking or key off). Is something shorted out (which should blow a fuse...)?
I took the Cam position sensor off and looked at it. It was really dirty inside, but intact. However, the replacement part was only $20 so I went ahead and replaced it. Still no fire.
Further note... the wires test out as follow with Key off:
Red- 12 V
Dark Blue/Light Green- 0V
Red/Light Blue- 0V
Pink/White- 12 V approx
This does not seem right to me... but what do I know?
I have attached the wire diagram for the coil, as you can see in the illustration that you should not have voltage on the pink/white wire, the only thing that will cause this is a short to power in the wire harness between the pcm and coil, or the pcm is bad
sorry, forgot the link
How should I go about testing the PCM? I'm thinking this must be the problem, because the car was running (not great) but running, then it just died while driving. Before replacing this part, I would definitely like a strong diagnosis that it is bad because of the expense.
Could you give me some pins to check, and as far as the wiring harness goes it looks like the pink/white attaches to pin 78. I could check for voltage there...?