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Hello I will help you with your question,
The tool allows the synchronizer to slip into the correct position.
That is the function of the tool so install the tool to the synchro and follow the procedure below. The only thing you have to do is start with #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke.
Note how the tool points in the diagram, with the tool in place select the position that the synchro drops in so it finishes in the position shown. If you are off a tooth you will not point at the correct location. You will not be a little off it will be a lot so you will know if you chose the wrong tooth. If you do pull it and move one tooth in the correct direction and drop it in again. Getting the oil pump drive to cooperate can be the hardest part of this
Look at the procedure below and see where it needs to point, let me know if you have further questions about this
Use the hold down bolt for reference you only need the tool pointing in that general direction it will do the fine alignment so as long as you have it pointing as shown in the diagram it will be correct. The tool does the work. You will be noticeably off if you start on the wrong tooth so give it a try and see how far off it ends up then move it one tooth and compare. It is quite a distance.
Any way you can get the oil pump drive to line up, it is hex shaped so you are not far from having it align if the synchro does not drop in right away.
The EGR and hoses have to be removed. You need a straight shot at dropping this in. Some drop right in for me and some are a struggle but in a van you need any advantage you can get so remove the EGR to give you the room.
Let me know how I can help you with this
There is a single cut on the balancer hub, you can also put a feeler wire in through #1 plug hole and once you are sure you are on the compression stroke feel for the top of the movement. A couple of degrees one side or the other will not matter. The cam sensor only fires the injectors. You go through all this to be sure you don't flood the cylinders by injecting the fuel at the wrong time but a couple of degrees one side or the other will not matter as the fuel is injected on the back of the intake valve and gets drawn into the cylinder when the valve opens. It waits there for the valve to open.
Find the cut and mark it then find TDC with a feeler and mark that position on the bottom of the oilpan to the balancer so you can see it when you are laying under the van turning the crank. Always turn clockwise and line up the marks on the compression stroke. I use a helper to find the compression stroke while I turn the crank. The socket does not fit the crank bolt very well and will keep slipping off, just stay with it and it will all line up
Let me know what further questions you have
I would start by marking the position of TDC #1 on the balancer and the oil pan so I could see it and then find the compression stroke. That way you can just line up the marks and the engine will be set.
If it starts back down turn it back counter clockwise and come up on it again clockwise. You want all the slack of the timing chain on the correct side of the sprocket.
Use PB Blaster on the EGR but you might get enough room by removing the EGR from the intake and leaving the pipe connected. Without the correct crows foot tool that nut can be hard to get off. The rest of the lines are not hard to move.
That is the indication of #1 and when it passes the crank sensor the computer will know what position the crank is in. I don't think you can see that while you are turning the crank though, I would be sure with a feeler in #1 you still have to check the compression stroke.
Yes that would be correct. In any case if you still have the old sensor installed remove the cam sensor and install the tool to the top of the synchro and see where it points then remove the bolt and pull the sensor out. You will then see why the EGR needs to be removed. I ground my tool to clear.
If the old synchro is still in place this is much easier but you still need to be at TDC compression on #1 before you pull it out.
Let me know what further questions you have
Yes you do have it in the correct position.
I thought you already had the synchro pulled so this is much easier. As I say leave the tool on the old synchro when you pull it and you will see why the EGR needs to be removed. I don't know whose alignment tool you have but a little grinding may save a lot=ot of work.
Let me know what I can do