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If he was jumping wires at the drivers power window switch connector then he might have shorted the drivers door module out which controls the locks and the drivers window motor. The switch wires for the drivers window go directly to the module, not the motor. The motor wires come from the module. The module controls the motor based on inputs from the switch, it is not hard wired. Being that the module is solid state the only way to test it is with a scanner that can communicate with the module either a Ford NGS or a Ford IDS scanner. There is really no other way to verify if he damaged the module or not. If all the fuses are good in the interior fuse panel and the underhood fuse panel then I would suspect the module but cannot guarantee it.
If you want to get the window up for now you would need to disconnect the module and apply power and ground to the yellow and white/black wires respectively, If the window tries to go down then reverse polarity on the two wires to raise the window.
This all needs to be done with the drivers door module completely disconnected.
The module is located in the drivers door. The drivers door panel needs to be removed to access the module.
I already explained that in my previous post. I will paste it again.
If you are on the yellow and the white/black wires and tried reversing continuity then the motor is probably the original problem. power on one and ground on the other, then flip it the other way if still no good then the motor is bad or one of the wires is open. If its a 99 1/2 it might have a blue wire instead of the white/black. With the door panel off you should be able to see the wire colors going to the motor.
All I said was to run power and ground to the two wires going to the motor from the module with the module unplugged and if it did not work then to reverse the polarity. If the motor is good then it should of went right up. As far as how to do it, I also explained that, giving you the wire colors to hook up to. I did not know you needed more info on where to get power and ground from (i.e.the battery). If the motor works with the new switch then power and ground was not applied to the wires as I described. I did say that the motor was bad if power and ground was run directly to the motor as directed and it did not work then it has to be bad unless it was hooked up other than I directed.