Ford Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi, have a fairly good thinking whats happening, so please bear with me. Lets disregard the fipl (tp sensor), may have set code if fuel pedal not pushed all the way to floor when running koeo test, also will not cause your concerns. Must also have a New Generator Star tester to adjust anyways, (ford scan tool) with a metered block (special tool) to place in part. If adjustment was never touched, leave it alone. Sensor can be replaced without adjusting, so disregard this. Next, the TR sensor (MLP) will likely not cause the concern either, no special tool needed, lining up the notch on the interior part of the sensor, with the exterior with shifter in neutral is good enough. Now,
if possible please explain exactly what symptoms you are having,
Need to know a few things:
At first, did all forward gears, 1-4 work okay, then lost 4th when light comes on?
Or after the rebuild did you never have later gears?
Whats drawing my attention is the code 26, usually caused by the solenoid body and will call wierd shifting issues intermittently. Recommend replacing solenoid body, temp sensor located inside, if shifted fine when first road tested.
Hi, sory opted out by accident, still here:
Please read answer above and let me know what you think.
lets start again, and throughly explain this. before I rebuilt the tranny it just quit at a red light, no forward - no reverse. had it towed home, when it cooled off you could start it up and it would go right in gear forward and reverse and shift through gears but only for a couple of minutes then quit again, no forward or reverse.
took the truck to a local trans shop the ran codes and basically replaced all sensors, tps, mlps, speed sensor & abs sensor. after the sensors were replaced no trans function at all. they didnt have time to rebuild it.
I brought the truck home & pulled complete wiring harness to trans & checked continuity to make sure harness was ok. thinking the problem was electronic, harness was fine and sensors new. I decided to do a pressure check, plumbed in pressure guage to port on left side of tranny - 0 pressure and no trans function.
now thinking pump problems, I pulled trans, removed converter, converter was problem, basically converter came apart internally and chewed up pump snout. I pulled pump to check relief valves, metal in pump.
at this point decided rebuild time. rebuilt with new converter, new valve bodies, new pump, seals etc. but used old solenoid pack because it was working fine before. everything was throughly cleaned and blown out before assembling. put trans back in truck, filled with fluid warmed up, rechecked fluid level, refilled to proper level. drove down the road, only had 1, 2, 3 shift. readjusted shift cable on side of transmission to set gear selector propertly, reroad tested 1, 2, 3, od shift fine and had converter lock up. seemed just fine till tried to throttle up, as soon as you would throttle trans would shift back and started acting like it couldnt make up its mind what gear to go in. let off the gas and it would go back into overdrive and have converter lock up.
figured mlps or tps not quite right adjusted mlps alittle(did not have tool) seemed to help shift problem. went to tps(had no spec on where to set), just moved alittle and a little more trans shift was still not quite right, drove truck up road got to a series of s curves on an incline, truck really started shift hunting, up and down, up and down. then decided to stay in second. slowed down to stop, trans would go 1st, then 2nd, no further. decided to take to aamco, before I messed up new rebuild and have the pros set the mlps with the proper tool and tps to ford spec because of a no 2 - 3 shift. they ran codes and came up with code 26 trans temp, code 23 tps out of range, and 47 4x4 switch close. called and asked to go further into trans, I gave them ok to check out 1-2 hour shop time, 3 days later aamco called and said did pressure check, and found interal leakage gave estimate of $1960 to rebuild trans(had already told aamco trans was rebuilt and all new parts) at this point I questioned aamco it they set tps and was told it would make trans worse. I told them no rebuild. went to aamco talked to rep, again asked if the set the mlps he told me they just slide on and to adjust the tps would mess things up further. so I asked if the pulled the transmission pan, he told me no, if they did not pull the trans pan and remove the valve body how did they test the ports for internal leaks of clutch packs etc????
decided to pay my bill get my truck and get out of there. (I will state that I have trans rebuild experience and understand the mechanical side of trans very well but cant seem to find the proper manual to explain in detail the electrically control of trans. what does what and why, what each wire and sensor should do, voltage,ohms, etc. and specifications for such. now I am ordering the mlps position tool so I can set the mlps. but now I need the specs on the tps, and how to check trans control computer for proper operation.
I found out how to test the solenoids and specifications for them and temp sensor which is in solenoid pack. have not tested them yet!
this is why I ask how to set tps on a 94 ford IDI 7.3 diesel and computer check and how about a good and thourough tech manual.
I know it can be tough it can be tough to diagnos the problem over the wire but this trans worked great before the converter puked and now wishing none of the sensors were messed with before rebuild and now after rebuild. thanks
Hi, noticed you stated converter puked, does that mean a big leak between engine and transmission? or is leak on top of transmission? I build e40d's on basically a weekly basis and can definetly help. Also, during the rebuild, was only clutches replaced, or was also all piston seals replaced for each cylinder (most important). First, pull transmission dipstick out, and smell tip to see if smells burned at all, if so, this verifys an internal pressure loss. Color may look good, but if any smell, there is an internal fault.
If a burned smell, transmission must come out, to inspect all piston seals that control clutches, along with feed bolts to center support.
How far in the rebuild proccess was done in rebuilding the transmission? was it stripped down to a bare case? or only pump and converter replaced? thanks this information will help.
1. no the converter did not leak it broke apart internally when pulled out of trans & drained. looked like black plastic gravel & loose roller bearing down inside.
2. converter replaced, pump asssembly replaced. all valve bodies & separator plates and gaskets were replaced. reason we replaced was trans had a shift kit in it and wanted to do away with.
3. inspected clutches very little if any noticable wear, so no clutches or seals were replaced. There was no noticable slippage before and with clutches looking good figured internal seals on clutch pistons good.
4. this trans was rebuild previously before we owned it, paper work in glove box shows only has about 27,000 miles before this converter broke apart.
as for a burn smell, fluid looiked good & smelled good, did not drive that much though only put max 30 - 40 miles and only short trips, longest one being about 12 miles.and trans did not feel real hot, could put your hand on pan, case was hotter but would not burn your hand. this truck does have radiator cooler and a after market cooler in front of the radiator.
sounds like you are thinking internal leak also, if you still think that, I will pull the pan and valve bodies and pressure check all the ports and listen for leaks.
there has got to be a way to set the tps with a multi meter because all sensors have inputs and outputs with a variation of these outputs and/or inputs changing the way it runs.
thank you very much